Well, close to a month waiting thanks to UK customs probably being terrified of something that runs on that demon-magic known as electricity, but 20 minute install job. And most of that was spent with screws and wire stripping. Even easier than I thought!
Admittedly, I had the foresight to get rid of that satanic, amber-like hellgoop Madcatz try to pass off as glue while the board was in transit. I think there was a mosquito with dinosaur blood stuck to part of it, now I think about it…
Yeah, what the HELL is that goop, anyway? Trying to scrape that yellow glue off of the ribbon connectors was a pain for me - my install took almost an hour, cuz I was afraid of pulling the whole socket off of the board! It seems that whoever assembled my stick was given free reign to use as much of that stuff as they wanted. It was all over the ribbon connectors, the USB cable, the PCB… I’m surprised the whole inside of the stick wasn’t coated in that stuff!
I’ll have to open a new thread to discuss “cost control” with MarkMan… I mean seriously, though - I know that they want some measure of tamper-detection to preserve the integrity of their warranty, but jeez, why make it so difficult?
anyone had something like this happen?
If I plug my stick into a PS3 while other controllers are plugged in it will light up the appropriate player LED and works fine but if someone switches off their controller, another player LED lights up on my stick (2 player LEDs) and the inputs stop working until I unplug it and plug it back in at which time it still shows 2 player LEDs lit but works fine.
If another person switches off their controller my stick lights up a 3rd player LED, doesn’t work till I unplug/plug again.
Its as though when they switch off their controller my stick takes over their player slot lol
Phreak, are you still making the slick cerberus boards? I need some for the cut and i don’t want to spend an extra 10 bucks on connectors I’m not going to use.
That’s an odd one, the board will automatically update the LED based on what the system tells it to do, but will continue to report normally and let the system actually handle the player input routing.
Going through a hub or anything, wired or wireless controllers? I’ve never had an issue like that reported before so I’m not sure exactly what to make of it.
Looking over your diagram, my guess is that your issue comes directly from the remora/cerberus cross linking and adjusting the wire harness that contains KGND, S, SEL, HOME, etc.
I would probably figure out via multimeter where the cross connection is happening, it could be how the remora has it traced out on the board.
Yeah a restock to focus attack should happen this week. I was out of town this weekend so I will finish up building and programming boards to send to them in the next couple days. They’ll have more fully built and half assembled as well.
Just a head’s up. I’m actually getting somewhat low again, and the next build I’m going to try something different now that the silk screen is fixed. I’m going to have them fully build some and then the others will ONLY be the surface mount components (like the original build), no through hole connectors or anything. So if you find that you can use the current connectors on the half-assembled ones I suggest getting one or two in the next restock. I may be out come EVO.
Assuming you have the phreakmods pcboard perfectly installed, are there any common problems or inconveniences involved in using it? Does it have any trouble recognizing and connecting to PS3 or other platforms?
The absolute only issue I’ve found is that in 360 mode, my stick doesn’t pick up the XBox guide button in the PC version of AE. I’m going to attribute that to GFWL’s general bastardyness though. Works fine to open the PS3 menu, however.
Since installing my Cerberus last week, I’ve had an issue a couple of times where my stick goes completely dead after the initial Cerberus Passthrough when connecting it to my XBox 360. I’ve had to open my stick up and press down on the Cerberus board. I’ve also double-checked that my USB to XBox PCB connection is solid. Is it best to just zip tie the Cerberus down in place?
Full board - standard piggyback style installation, mounted on top of the TE-S+ PCB with the ribbon connectors connected to the Cerberus. All 8 USB wire ends are securely crimped into the connectors. I had some time today, so I went ahead and zip-tied the 2 pcb’s together along the left side. It worked fine after testing it. I’ll see how it goes over the next few days and report back.
First step is to make 100% sure they are completely together, the disconnect in the inputs would definitely happen if the boards weren’t all the way together and perhaps got jarred out of place a bit.
If you are positive they are together, yeah a couple of zip ties will solve that issue. The friction lock from the headers should be plenty to keep them together, but added security can’t hurt.
Yeah, I pressed down on all 4 corners just to make sure. I zip tied it snugly, but not too tight. After putting the top panel back on and shaking it up a bit, I plugged it into my XBox and it worked, so I’ll see how it goes with day to day use.
Phreak, any suggestions on what gauge wire and any other tips on the hidden install of the cut pcb? I’m definitely gonna try it with the batch i just ordered
30 gauge is what I use (radio shack wire wrap wire), but really anything 26 and above should work ok. The biggest problem is how fat the insulation can be on 26 gauge sometimes. I wouldn’t use anything lower though, in tight installs it can be too difficult to deal with.