Is “in game” being street fighter 4? You’ll want to use the controller configuration utility to set your button mappings and let the program see it in Cerberus mode.
Alternatively, just force 360 mode when playing SF4 on PC.
got question answered but can’t delete this post :S
I’m in the middle of a cerberus install (soldering wires to it) and wanted to know, I don’t have to solder to every signal right?
Do I need to solder to:
LSY
LSX
RS
LS/RSY
LED 1 to 4
I have the buttons, start, select, home and directions soldered and usb will go through the funky thingies (you know what I mean lol). Thats all I need right?
PS: I’m installing this into a hori SCV 360 pcb
Yeah you can ignore those signals if you don’t want to do player LEDs or bother with LS/RS functionality. The basic configuration of things is exactly what you have by the sound of it.
@|Galen| Sorry for such a late reply, but are you saying that in that Cerberus install that you posted, the D+ and D- wires from the 360 PCB are the only ones soldered onto the Cerberus? That’s what confuses me about the install. :?
No the ground and vcc (v5) are on there too just on the other side of the cerberus.
So I just got done with everything (cerberus in 360 hori scv plus remora) and plugged it in to both PC and 360 and nadda…sucks to say the least 
PC doesn’t prompt anything and no player lights come on or anything.
Its my first mod and I’m at a loss on how to go about trouble shooting it. Any advice or direction?
Pics are here flickr.com/photos/97358328@N03/
Thanks guys. Hoping I can finally get this finished 
I’m sorry I’m having a hard time following that, but what I would start with is checking voltage on the VCC line and button signals. I would also remove the ribbon from the LEDs for the time being.
Could be as simple as the USB cable not being punched into by the IDC terminals enough. Perhaps just solder the USB cable to the underside of the terminals.
The idea in debugging this would be to remove as many factors as possible and keep it simple to get a baseline, then go from there.
On the underside, huh? Well, I’ll just have to get it in my hands to look at what the board will look like when it’s cut down… I was going to order it, but I spent that money on my PS4 preorder. 
So, I’ll see if I can get it either with this week’s paycheck, or at the end of the month.
Ground and VCC can also be soldered to on the nice big labeled pads, so you have a few spots you can get VCC/GND on the board.
That was my original thought, Phreak… So, the D+ and D- coming from the stick’s PCB can be soldered to the X D+ and X D- on the Cerberus, and the X vcc and X Gnd wires can be soldered onto the Cerberus’ vcc and Gnd pads, thus being shared with the corresponding USB In vcc and Gnd wires, correct?
That wasn’t too confusing the way I wrote it, is it?
Yeah that sounds right.
Sweet! Now I’m sure I can do this with an increased level of confidence… As soon as I get a new soldering iron that is, because the tip on my faithful (but long out of production) Ungar UTC-300 soldering iron is just too fat for the task at hand. I’m gonna need to buy myself a Weller. The tip it comes with is much better suited for this kind of work.
ITS ALIVE!!! thank you SO much for the assist and the awesome product The usb ground wire didn’t get punched properly so I want ahead and soldered the usb connections to the bottom, plugged it into my PC and it came up as cerberus v1.0.
I then plugged everything in (LED harness, remora, etc.), plugged it back into PC and again everything went good. Tested button inputs and everything registered.
Heres my current issue, when I forced 360 (held 1p) it was recognized by windows as the hori but one of the buttons stays lit in the windows test mode. I think its the start button.
How do I go about determining the issue? Since it only happens on the default PCB does that mean its something wrong on its end vs cerberus end?
Here is the solder point on the cerberus (sorry for the blurriness, hopefully its good enough). The start solder is the 3rd one from the left of the image.
That then goes to the white start signal wire coming out of the hori pcb where I soldered the two together and slipped the yellow heatshrink over.
I’ll keep poking at it but any help would be immensely appreciated. Almost there
k, after some more poking I realized that I took the # 4 & 5 harness from a brawlstick so I can easily connect cerberus to remora but since cerberus isn’t compatible with brawlstick I think it caused some wiring issues.
harness #5 worked out fine (1 ground+5 buttons) but the last 3 pins on #4 = start, select & home on cerberus but kill ground, start & back on remora causing the issue.
So…I removed the kill ground pin on the remora side and moved the last 2 pins over one space (now its blank, start, select) and on the cerberus side I removed the last pin (home) and left the rest as is. Now, on hori PCB mode EVERYTHING matches perfectly (WOOT!) but on the cerberus side start button does nothing, home button = start and select = home lol
What I dont get is, theres a wire going from cerberus home and select to the hori pcb’s home and back so wouldn’t they at least be correct regardless of the remora part? :S
Not necessarily, the Remora was designed to work with the TE terminal block harnesses specifically, so by moving the ribbon cable connections around it’s possible that there’s a disconnect/mix up now.
What you’ll want to do is simply use a multimeter and ohm it out to where Start is losing it’s connection and Select/Home are shifted. Ultimately, you can run your start, select, and home to the remora via the ribbon cable and direct solder from the cerberus to the hori if you find that the ribbon cables aren’t cooperating in orientation.
The multimeter w/ continuity setting is your best friend for this debugging though.
Thats what I did. Theres a slight difference between the select button and start button though due to select being in the turbo panel:
Start button:
- Hori PCB start signal soldered to cerberus start spot then is carried to remora via ribbon cable and from there remora connects to the start button via quick disconnects.
Select button: - Hori PCB select signal goes via stock ribbon to the turbo panel that houses the button. I identified which pin on the PCB was select and soldered a wire to it with the other end soldered to cerberus select spot.
Select is then carried from cerberus to remora via the ribbon cable and from remora, the ground wire isn’t connected to anything and the signal wire is soldered to the Hori PCB select (exact same spot as where the wire soldered to cerberus is).
I’ve got a feeling I’ve messed up something with the select part. Heres a diagram that I hope would shed light on it in case you can see the issue otherwise I’ll take a poke when I get off work.
That’s exactly the way that it was done on the mod that I did. It’s just the 4 runs are not in the same location on the Cerberus (the 4 that I used) XD+/- are in one spot and VCC/GND are in another.
Ok, I was finally able to give the stick a thorough testing both on PC and on 360/PS3.
In all tests, remora and the stock pcb had no issues. All the buttons did what was expected and nothing went wrong (both on 360 force mode on PC and 360 auto mode)
Cerberus also had no issues on PC or PS3 as far as functionality goes. The only issue that remains is the start button is activated by back/select button, back/select is activated by the home/guide button, the start button does nothing and no button activates home/guide.
If I hold home+select which triggers select+start I can make the home button activate and get the menu on PS3 but I can’t get to the dashboard by tapping home+select, only when I hold them.
So, looks like only way I can get fully functioning home button on ps3 is to figure out what up.
Heres a diagram of all the connections and some details on how it was achieved. This should hopefully give all the info needed to help me figure out where I’m going wrong. Thanks again
I just installed my Cerberus into my TTT2 Fightstick… It is the SWEETNESS!!! The stick wasn’t working on the XBox 360 initially, but after reseating the board, I was back in business!!! Thanks Phreakazoid for such a great and EASY* to install product!
Oh, I think that it should be updated in the install instructions that Noir layout sticks (both the SCV and TTTT2) need to have the lower right hand screw removed. I had to remove it for the panel to properly seat onto my TTT2 stick. Good thing I realized that right away!
*As long as you take your time, especially when preparing the USB cable ends!