Has anyone had any issues with getting their UFB to work with Windows 8? I had upgraded my computer to windows 10 but unfortunately, my work software was not fully compatible with windows 10 so I downgraded back to windows 8 but now when I plug my hitbox with a UFB in, nothing happens. If I just plug it in and let it auto-detect it does the device plugged in sound, then immediately does the device unplugged sound. I’ve tried holding p1-p4 and k1 when plugging it in and it makes the device plugged in sound but nothing shows up on Devices and printers.
Did you check game controllers?
If you get the connect sound, it means SOMETHING is installed. It should show up somewhere. It might showed up under unspecified.
P1= Ps3 wired controller. P2=Ps4 wired controller. P3=xbox 360. P4=xbox one.
If you get the disconnect sound with P3. then you need to install the Microsoft xbox 360 drivers and then go to devices and printers, go to the unidentified device and go to update driver, select driver to install manually, and look for Microsoft common controller class for xbox 360, or xbox 360 2.1 accessories or something, dated 8/2009 or around there, and then it will work.
The Xbox One drivers are harder to install. They should work just fine if installed clean, but if they were already installed, you may get a “incorrect driver for this device” even though it’s correct, and then its a complete pain in the butt to get it working.
The connect and disconnect sound happens when you plug it in for auto detection. Auto detection is for consoles. I think it very quickly shows ps4 then disconnects it. You should manually specific the device if used on a PC.
sorry if this is a dumb question, guys, but i’ve been looking into replacing the board on my madcatz TE1 round 2 stick with a universal one. only thing i’ve done before is replace my gate with an octagonal, so i don’t really have too much experience with parts and stuff (though, with the internet, i can generally figure out how to do something eventually as long as i have everything i need,) so i had some questions before i go ahead and actually go for it.
would i need additional parts/cables if to replace my standard board for my madcatz TE1 stick?
also, i don’t have access to soldering equipment, would i be able to attach and wire up everything i’d need regardless?
i guess, basically, in short, do i need to grab anything but the board in order to actually replace it?
sorry if these have been asked before, i tried searching the thread but i couldn’t find anything on the first few pages.
It depends on wether your te is the 360 or the ps3 version. 360 version requires less soldering. If you want to Keep the existing cable youll need to solder.
thanks for the response, and sorry for not adding that detail!
i’ve got the 360 one, yeah. which cable(s) do i actually need to replace to avoid soldering, then?
You could install a neutrik port to avoid soldering. But youd need to dremel a hole for it somewhere if you want to Keep both start and select buttons. Google neutrik + te.
Edit: or you could order your ufb from pas with headers preinstalled then put a compatibele connector on the existing usb cable.
Tbh i only have a ps3 te so i haven’t got first hand experience.
When I do that for 3p and 4p it shows up in the device manager as xbox 360 controller and xbox one controller respectively but it doesn’t show up in my devices and printers page and I can’t use the controller for any games. It’s showing up right elsewhere but not where I can actually use it. I tried updating the drivers and that did not do anything either.
EDIT: Nevermind, apparently my computer did a bunch of updates over night and now when I plugged it in it popped up as installing and is working fine now. Man I really didn’t miss Windows 8.
The last firmware update solved the problem I was experiencing. Thank for offering such speedy responses to issues. I have bought a universal board for all my sticks so I’m hoping you guys will be around for a very long time.
I have an Eightarc Onyx & I’m looking into modding the Brook Universal Fighting Board into said stick. How would I go about making sure that the lights, the existing USB plug, & the Mode buttons are kept in-tact?
Buy the pre-soldered UFB if you don’t want to solder, but you’ll still need hot glue or crimps for the front panel.
If you want to keep the original wiring intact (e.g. for reversing the mod someday if you wanted to migrate the UFB to something else), you’ll need a 20 pin harness from PAS for the stick and main buttons, and extra wires and crimps for dealing with the front panel. You could also rip the existing wires out of the connectors on the Onyx (on the PCB end, not the front panel end) and hotglue them to the brook (or strip them for the screw terminals) if you don’t care about the original wiring.
Can you take pictures of the Onyx PCB and front panel PCB?
Is the eightarc Onyx the same as the Qanba Q4 rebranded Eightarcs?
(e.g. the Fusion?)
I can’t even find an Eightarc Onyx on Eightarc’s website!
Depending on how similar or different it is from a Q4/fusion:
The following is based on putting a UFB into a Q4raf, so YMMV.
Qanba USB JST connector fits right on the UFB’s USB pinouts (if you bought the presoldered UFB). If your controller has a cable door cabinet with a plastic stop on the cable, you shouldn’t even need to hotglue it.
for LED’s, VCC is VDD. Other than that, Qanba LED pin positions are reversed in orientation from the Brook UFB LED pins, so you have to keep that in mind when wiring the LED’s.
Turbo and Mode pins can be directly hooked up and crimped to whatever you want on the UFB (TPkey, L3, R3), etc.
Home (Xbox/PS3 button) just goes to Guide/Home on UFB, use screw terminal.
Select can be crimped and screwed into select on UFB.
All you need is 1 ground connected to the front panel for GND.
I can’t easily edit my post due to accessibility issues with this forum, so apologies in advance for any spelling/grammar issues
Hi all,
I’ve been trying to figure out how the back/select button should be wired in for best functionality (I’m planning on using the screw terminals to avoid messing up the board. As I have no sight whatsoever myself I’m getting assistance with this. I don’t have a PS4 (but know people who do), but for best results what would you suggest I do? Also, how does firmware updating work? A large amount of the instructions I could find weren’t very accessible/easy to understand and the files don’t have clear labels for screen readers on their website, thus making it very difficult to download what I need without some extra help on that front too.
I’ve already got my 15 buttons for my stickless controler (including DPad, face buttons, bumpers, triggers and 3 for start/menu, home/guide and back/select) but am confused how to wire this last one in as I’ve seen references to the touchpad key and am under the impression that it had to be soldered.
Any clarification on this matter would be much appreciated.
You don’t realy need touchpadkey. Its only used for position reset in training mode on ps4. On pc its r3 i think witch also needs to be soldered. Position reset can also be achieved through the in game menu so its no Big deal. Just wire start and select to their screw terminals and youll be find. If you really want the option you could order the board with headers pre soldered from Paradise Arcade.
@Dubon
Thanks for the clarification. Would wiring start+select to their individual screw terminals still give me the ability to use the share button on PS4 if I ever needed to? The PC version of SFV has keyboard shortcuts for position resets etc as far as I can remember from googling.
By the way, I’d already ordered the board from Arcadeworld UK as I’m outside the US and they only sold the one option without the presoldered headers.
Thanks again for your help.
Yes, start and select are share and options on ps4 if i Remember correctly.
@Dubon
If you could check this to be absolutely sure that would be much appreciated. So basically all I’d lose is the ability to use the touchpad? That’s not too bad really. Shame there’s no way to use a headset of any kind with this board but that’s a whole other discussion 
@Dubon
Didn’t seem to say it there, not from what I could see. Also, what does it mean by combo keys to switch modes?
Just trying to untangle what might be considered as broken english of the site in places.
I have the UFB right in front of me.
On PS4, SELECT is SHARE. You can hook up select either with the 20 pin wiring harness or screw terminals (e.g. if your select button is part of a turbo panel instead of a sanwa/hori button).
On PS3/Xbox/PC, Select is select.
What you’re confused about is the touchpad key (TPkey). That’s what’s confusing you.
TPkey was changed in a recent firmware update to function as select in PS3, XBOne, X360/PC mode. In PS4 mode it’s Touchpad.
This was done to accommodate people with limited # of buttons, as many older cabinets didn’t have enough buttons to wire up both Select and TPkey.
And on PS4, TPkey is important. Some say it’s essential.
On PS4 mode, when used on PC, TPkey and Select will be different buttons, and if you are using some arcade emulator or something, you can bind both of them.
On PS3/XB 360 etc in PC mode (or on the consoles), TPkey and Select are the same input and same button.
TPkey can not be used to update firmware, as the firmware code is done when plugging in the UFB USB cable, so its hardwired.
Combo key is just holding down multiple keys (joystick button/stick inputs). or “Key combination”.
To update firmware, you run the firmware update program, then before inserting the UFB controller, hold Select+Home and plug in the USB plug. So Select+Home= “Combo key”.
TPkey can not be used in place of select to update firmware (I asked), since this is done via MCU, as soon as power is initialized.
The other “combo keys” is LS/DP/RS, which is holding start+joystick direction for 3 seconds (joystick must be held in the same direction)
Maybe “input combination” would sound less fear inducing.
This was added in a new firmware. Some people don’t have SPDT/SP3T switches on their controllers to wire up the LS pin on the UFB manually, or they do but they don’t want to solder, or they didn’t buy a pre-soldered UFB. Some older games require analog (LS) joystick input, so this mode can now be set with holding down input combinations (Joystick one direction+Start for 3 seconds) = “Combo keys”.
Probably the most famous example of what needs “LS” without additional software is “Street fighter turbo hyper fighting” on Callus (only emulator with arcade perfect gamespeed; MAME is broken in HF).
R3 isn’t used in PC street fighter 5. R3 is “analog right joystick button press”, e.g. right thumbstick button on Xbox 360/XB One.
Edit
LS is used for restart training mode on SF5 PC, if you enable it. So LS has to be bound. That’s useful 
RS is for status changing. Don’t really find that useful.
@Falkentyne
Thanks for the update on this. I wasn’t fearful of the combo keys, just had no idea what the specific combos were etc (I have played a large number of fighting games so I know what a combo is, FYI). At least I shouldn’t have to do anything strange with the Tp Key, unless I get a PS4. Even if I did need it upgraded to support the extra buttons, the soldering for the headers etc shouldn’t be as hard as trying to pad hack an Xbox One controler.
Believe me, if I could’ve ordered it with the extra headers, I might have done but Arcade World UK doesn’t seem to sell the presoldered headers as an option, not that I could see anyway.
Do I have to download a new file each time a new update comes out?
Not necessarily. For example, the last 3.55 update doesn’t seem to have affected the UFBs.