Brook Universal Fighting Board Thread

Probably not, USB can only be used for smash and pokken. No other game accepts input over USB. Maybe if they created a dongle that got the brooke to show up as a WiiU Pro or the Gamepad then maybe.

And Smash generally requires 2 joysticks. Technically you can manage with one, but smash requires also digital inputs for its joysticks. i.e Smash vs Tilt( Full stick movement vs half stick movement). Pokken is the only viable game that can be used with arcade sticks.

How about Tekken and Mortal Kombat for the regular WII, as well as NES and SNES classic games, eh?

I could be mistaken, but I’m pretty sure only 2 games support usb controllers. Pokken and Smash4. Hell I don’t even believe you can play the classic Mario Kart with the new usb gamecube adapter.

Yes that’s basically it.
And Smash requires two control devices.

@Karr80 I have a pretty good layout for Pokken.

1p = Light Attack
2p = Heavy Attack
3p = Pokemon Move
4p = Guard

1k = Jump
2k= Pokemon Move (I duplicated it here to make it easier to do counters)
3k = Support Pokemon
4k = Synergy Burst

Send me a friend request and we’ll fight sometime. My Nintendo ID is the same as my forum name.

@GOGO.Zippy Happened to me as well. Please change.

I have a Qanba q4, what kind of USB cable should I get?

You talking about this?

The stock Qanba cable and the official replacement works perfectly in the Brook UFB, IF your Brook UFB has pre-soldered headers! The Qanba is a 5 pin keyed JST connector to USB A cable, while the UFB uses an unkeyed (if you bought it pre-soldered) USB connector with marked pinouts, or uses the USB A to B printer type cable. Just line up the red wire on the Qanba with “VCC” pin on the UFB and you’re good to go. The shield ground (Pin #5) on the Q4raf will be NC (not connected) but that won’t cause any problems.

If your UFB is not presoldered, then you either have to solder the wires yourself, or buy a USB A to B cable.
like this one:


The UFB has this connector on it, which is designed for people that don’t have presoldered, connectors and who don’t want to solder.
The nice thing about the Q4raf cable is that the USB cable has a built in stop on it to mount it to the door cabinet, so there isn’t any risk of the cable detaching when pulled. If you were trying to use the UFB with a generic controller cabinet and some random stock USB cable with the same JST header size, then I wouldn’t recommend it unless the USB Cable were firmly attached to something.

Also on your Qanba Q4raf, you can use the “Switch” Pin (Xbox 360 - PS3/PC) on the qanba front panel to wire the X360/PS3 SPDT switch to function as Left analog joystick, or “LS” (PS3 position will be ground which will force LS mode). Just requires hooking up “Switch” pin to “LS” on the UFB.

That’s probably the only good use for the switch. Another option, which I think only advanced modders will know how to do, is to use that switch to act as a toggle for a dual mode for another button. For exammple: to have the “PS3” position of the switch force the “Select” button to work as “select/Share”, and the Xbox 360 position to work as “TPkey.” That will require more work though.

Hey folks. I just finished putting together a stick using the Brook UFB. When I plug it into the ps4 I get a “too many usb devices are plugged in, please remove”. I then tried it on my laptop and got a power surge warning saying the usb device requires more power than the port can supply.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Got it dual modded along with anything else?

Nope…just the UFB

Got any photos you can post of your wiring?

@Squeezelbum - shoot me a PM

Hey guys… New 1.5.1 patch enroute. Brook took my suggestion and added a 3 second hold for the dp/ls/rs. Also - they claimed to improve the input lag once again. Testing now - if all goes well we’ll have a patch next week.

What USB cable are you using ?
Is it the printer type USB A to B cable or are you using the onboard headers? Does your UFB have presoldered headers?

We figured it out. Most likely nothing anyone will encounter as its stick specific.

Sweet!!! Loving the support Brook is doing with these units by listening to feedback from users.

Yes, having the 3 second hold will prevent all accidental changes with no drawbacks. And you have to hold the joystick and start for 3 seconds. Just holding down the start button and tapping the joystick randomly won’t trigger a switch change, and vice versa.

Now I can theoretically remove the SPDT LS to Qanba Q4raf “Switch” wire that I have the “Switch” pin on (the SPDT dual mode switch that switches between ground and NC (no connection=default), which was originally for PS3/Xbox360 switching) on my Q4raf casing, to the Brook’s hardware “Select” button, in which switching to “PS3” position will activate and hold “Select”, for easy firmware flashing (that’s because the actual Select button is wired to TPkey in my case), but I can do that later. :slight_smile:

Goooooooooood shiiiiiiiiiiiiiit