Sorry if this seems dumb Jasen (I don’t know much about electronics) but what’s the name/model of the part I’d need to solder onto the board to get that in the first place (and the LED/turbo sections)? Been having a lot of problems finding this.
Per the datasheet I linked above:
4 pin connectors:
B4B-PH-K-S for top entry type (wires coming in perpendicular to the board) or S4B-PH-K-S for side entry type (wires coming in parallel to the board).
5 pin connectors:
B5B-PH-K-S for top entry type (wires coming in perpendicular to the board) or S5B-PH-K-S for side entry type (wires coming in parallel to the board).
** See the difference there? **
Housing You need to use: (For both Top and Side entry connectors)
*4 pin connectors: *
PHR-4
*5 pin connectors: *
PHR-5
** See the difference there? **
**Contacts you need to use: **
SPH-002T-P0.5S (get as many as you need to crimp onto wires plus about 50% more, you will jack some up 
we all do)
**Wire gage to use: **
30-24AWG
Here’s some freebie SearchFu for you to start: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/PHR-4/455-1164-ND/608606
Thanks. I cannot pharse any of this very well and most of the sites in the UK have nothing in 2mm spacing, but I think I’ve got my head around it and found something that will work on Ebay.
I was able to swing it with 22AWG, but it was tricky indeed.
@RiotArms, do yourself a favor and get yourself a decent crimp tool for the PH connectors. I recommend Engineer PA-09. Use the 1.9mm groove for the outer barrel pins, and 1.6mm groove (or less if you are using smaller AWG) for the conductor contacts.
Make sure you’ve got steady fingers and lots of light. Decent eyesight helps too 
we are working on it, just wait in patience~
Does anyone know the diameters of the mounting holes on the UFB? I’m not home right now so can’t measure mine until later >__<
@GOGO.Zippy Thanks for the quick reply, I meant the 4 corner holes on the PCB, not the wiring holes. Not sure if they’re 3mm or 4mm. Though if the J7 and J9 wiring holes are 2.54mm perhaps the corner ones must be 4mm?
He meant the pitch is 2.54
A 4-40 screw fits in the holes perfectly. I think it’s about 3.2mm diameter.
Would of been nice if they were all 2.54mm pitches
3.3mm
Will there ever be a home button macro like ps360 has? It’s hard to recommend it to friends with older sticks when, despite everything else being braindead easy, they’ll have to either learn how to solder or drill new buttons into their case in order to get full functionality.
What buttons are they missing from sticks that have been out for 9 years?
I would just wire up start / options and home instead. Skip the share button, if you really wanted to use the share feature, just keep your DS4 around.
BTW, the Qanba Q4raf USB cable is a drop in install on the Brook UFB, without needing to buy a USB A to B cable. There are two grounds, but the other pins line up perfectly, so one is unused. I was rather shocked as no one mentioned this before.
That’s only if you have the soldered headers (lol)
You should replace with a A-B cable or bridge the 2 grounds together, as that’s the sheild wire. Not totally important, but it’s there for a reason.
Hi, I just finished wiring my Qanba Q4raf with the UFB. Easiest mod I ever did.
Just need to make sure you do a few things:
- Get all connections pre-soldered. You’ll be glad you did.
- 20 pin paradise shop joystick harness.
- Important: get some of these!
I can not stress how useful these things are.
You need at least 5 to cover everything necessary.
- Qanba stock USB cable will work fine on the UFB, but Jasen recommends an A to B one for shielding.
For the front panel, it’s easy.
- wire one of the blue 22 aug headers to the “Switch” connector on the front panel (PS3/PC/Xbox 360 toggle switch) and the LS pin on the UFB.
- Strip one end of a blue cable (keeping the quick disconnects are useful though) to wires and wire it into front panel select through the screw terminal and put the QD or crimp on the Select pin.
- strip one end of another blue cable and wire it to Home(Xbox) on QD/screw terminal.
- Either strip a third blue cable on one end and wire it to “GND” on the front panel and screwhole it, or use an unstripped one and put the QD and crimps on GND on the front panel, to GND on the GND pin next to the TPKey block.
- Put a crimp/QD on TPKey and the other end on “Turbo”.
If you have an extra, you can put it on L3 or R3.
You’re on your own with the LED’s.
Looks sort of ghetto but it’s easy for someone who is allergic to soldering, hot glue and who just wants a quick and easy mod.
Enjoy.
Can you show a picture? I’m not following how you ended up using the .110" QDC wires without snipping the ends off I don’t see many Qanbas in my travels.
Ugh, I don’t want to take my stick apart again 
I took it apart like 20 times yesterday and today
Is it ok to say that the QD wires just snap right onto the exposed pins on the Qanba PCB?
Nvm ill take a picture hold on. Please excuse the $120 HMX-F90 potato camera though!
Ok how’s this?
I stripped the ends of select and home to wire into the screw terminal.
you should glue your pins down since you don’t have the plastic sheath around them. Because they are uninsulated, they may touch while moving around or even fall out.