Forum’s been going down, having trouble posting.
Thank you, I’ll look into some glue next time I run by home depot so they don’t touch. Oddly enough, they wont fall out however, even though they do shift around; i can see a potential issue there; i don’t know how, but they are (otherwise) very secure. Actually takes some force to get them out…I was surprised at first.
Yeah it’s more of a precaution rather than “it’s gonna happen” - Pablo Francisco
I probably wouldn’t have done that since those aren’t the right pins for those connectors. With them shifting around, despite being tight, you are going to have an issue in the future with it not having a good connection and disconnecting. Vicko is 100% correct here.
I applaud you for the creativity, but I would put this in the “clever, but don’t do this at home kids” category. Better to do it the right way for long term use.
@“Jasen Hicks” @Vicko
I would just solder the wiring into place if I didn’t have the right connectors or splice the wiring with the connectors into the wring I want to use.
But I agree with Jasen here, use the right “tools” for the job.
Okay also got one UFB, easy swap with ps360+ and updated firmware. so far works fine
Thanks @GOGO.Zippy
I thought share and select were the same button. So why do you need an extra hole? Most cases have three buttons for start/select/home. I’m not sure how to go back in Skullgirls on PS4 because it’s supposed to be select but select is share for ps4.
Some people want a dedicated a TPkey as a 4th button. However on the new firmware if you don’t need share for ps4 you can wire up TP instead because TP acts as Back when connected to legacy consoles. Also on ps4 there is a macro start + home = share.
When the UFB was first released, TPkey pin did nothing when used in PC/Xbox 360/PS3 mode. But because people wanted the touchpad key (it’s sort of needed for PS4) and because not everyone had more than three extra buttons on their panels (usually they just had start, select, and Home/Guide/Xbox), they requested that TPkey be duplicated as select, and as Jony said, the share button just tilts people sometimes.
So now, you can have it both ways, and if you have five extra buttons, then you can wire all of the TP features.
@GOGO.Zippy is it possible te remap the share screw in pin to tpkey for ppl that don’t want to solder? didn’t know that tpkey acts like back button as well. Too lazy to unmount and solder it 
That extra $10 for all headers pre-soldered is looking like an excellent bargain to avoid inconveniences down the road 
Obligatory…
Obviously Witchcraft
But seriously I understand soldering is not a skill everyone knows.
I think soldering is a skill worth developing.
if afraid to solder… at least use jumper pin connectors.
Damn that’s an extremely massive tip…I’m pretty confident with my soldering but my tip is far from that thick, I think I’ll end up bridging everything lol
You supposed to use the widest tip that would do the job.
A larger tip holds more heat, thus heats solder more quickly.
To avoid solder bridges use flux, and when you get a bridge you wipe the excess with your iron.
Vicko here pre-tinted the wire and the soldering point with solder so all he had to do was to apply a little bit of heat from his chisel type soldering point.
I see people solder multiple pins on SMD components with a even bigger soldering iron chisel
Im using the same old stank $15 radioshack special. this thing doesnt even tin anymore. Its all Black and 1 spot on the side that will kind of hold solder and I had no problem doing awg30 stuff on my xbox360.
When I have a better place/store stuff ill look into one with variable settings and tips.
Hell im still using an analog radioshack multimeter to test continuity. By the time i get the leads in place and look up at the dial, theyve moved around. I usually need to 2x and 3x check everything to make sure its good.
Went to test a stick I wired up with a brook fighting board and PS & share/select buttons where stuck (pressed down) when plugging it in. I noticed the PC went from windows gamepad to USB HID device. Game controllers didn’t pick anything up and when I go to update via the Brook firmware update I get “UPDATE UNSUCCESSFUL.”
Did this board get fried by having PS & Share stuck when plugging it in or is there a solution?
Thanks
did you let go at any time during the update process? if not, it just means you booted back into bootloader mode and you didn’t let the program verify. If you can force the stick into any console mode by holding 1-4p, you’re fine.
Try reupdating and let go of the buttons after the button changes to “Update.”
Yeah, I was saying you don’t need to/shouldn’t. Whatever works, I guess.
As I said, the “Update Unsuccessful” error is because you couldn’t complete verification, not necessarily that the firmware didn’t take.