Yeah, one of the problems with upgrade installs or using operating systems with old drivers is conflicts that seem to be stable until some new piece of hardware appears. Then it’s crash city. That’s one reason why some people recommend doing a full maintenance and doing a fresh install (after backing up your stuff, or buying a new HDD And doing a new install, then getting your saved games and documents copied over).
Windows bloat and all these hardware pretzel tangles is one reason why PC’s are shied away from in Street fighter 5 tournaments even with the cross platform play. No one wants to deal with why a system went down when you plug in a joystick, lol.
I have been having the same BSOD issues. UFB works fine on USB 2.0 ports but will instantly BSOD on USB 3.0 ports. The solution posted above by TMNTemps above works because it essentially turns the USB 3.0 ports into USB 2.0.
I think the UFB has issues with older mobo USB 3.0 ports. I have also tried updating the drivers and forcing P3 mode without success.
I have two controllers, one with the Universal board, one with the PS3/PS4 Fightboard.
When plugged into the same PS4, they don’t both work. After I’ve signed in with one controller, hitting the PS button on the other one logs the first controller off and it is no longer detected by the console and the second one to log in is automatically signed on as the profile the first one had selected.
Found a workaround by turning on a regular PS4 controller while one was signed in, then signing into the second Brook device.
Whole situation is really odd and I don’t understand why that’s happening. Systems and controllers are running the latest firmware. Is this a known issue?
This is not just the brook UFB/PS4 fightboard, this is all USB accessories post 3.50 system update. Something happened with the way USB controllers are dealt with.
As I mentioned earlier, the xhci drivers seem to cause issues with all sorts of equipment. It seems to be a usb3.0 driver and some people can switch to legacy 2.0. My system doesnt and the 2.0 is still off the xhci.
For my rocksmith cable to work I was able to use my keyboards usb passthrough to get it to pick up correctly.
You guys might need to try something like a usb 2.0 hub and go through that and see if it still errors.
My stick would BSoD my system no matter which port I connected it to, USB 3.0 or USB 2.0.
After tweaking my settings as per above, the stick was properly detected as an Xbox One controller and functional. Then I added the Neutrik USB jack to the case and now it no longer works. Previously it would briefly appear as a “P4 Wireless Gamepad Controller” or some shit in device manager before popping over to the Xbox One driver and starting to work. Now it just gets stuck as that random device and will not work.
Really fucking annoying IMO, and upgrading to Windows 10 is not an option available to me on this PC. Between this USB nonsense, consistent lag issues when you are the PC side of PC/PS4 crossplay, and my framerates dropping 15% with every patch so my settings have gone from high to medium to low with 75 resolution scaling just to try and maintain 60fps I’m just about done with trying to play SF5 on my PC
Hey guys, I just received my EZ Mod Kit today and hooked everything up inside my stick, but I’m having one problem. The lk and mp buttons are activating at the same time. If I press lk I get both inputs, and if I press mp I also get both inputs. How can I tell which one is the problem? The EZ Mod or the UFB? I don’t have any wires to connect in order to test them like what was mentioned in an earlier post, so is there another way to tell?
Pictures help. The LK and MP connections on the 20P are pretty far apart on the UFB so it shouldn’t be an issue there.
Look at the bottom of the EZ MOD very closely and see if there is a bridge between any of the pins where the VLX joystick/button connector go. It sounds like there is a tiny bridged joint from the fab house. Specifically, Look really closely at the 6th and 7th pin from the right when you flip it upside down on the row of solder joints away from the board edge.
Thanks for the reply, there indeed is a little bit of solder between the two pins you mentioned. How would I go about removing it? Would it be safe to just chip it off with a sharp knife? I have uploaded a couple pictures at the link below.
Hi there people, been using my stick fine since I installed it when the boards first came out, decided to play some yesterday and noticed the 8min timeout had returned due to the ps4 update only problem I got is my stick doesn’t have the share button so is there any other way to update the firmware using a different shortcut maybe when you have to connect to stick to the PC? Thanks
Does anyone make a button harness that works with this connector on the UFB (TP, L3, R3, Ground). If not, what is the part to look for that would slide on here to make my own??
Obviously I can just solder to the through hole or on the other side if the connector is already there, but I am asking for a beginner who does not solder who I can not physically help.
Maybe try ebay? Search “female wire jumper 4 pin”. If you can’t solder you can always cut/strip the other end of the wire and crimp your quick disconnect.
