- xb1 infrared. Remove/discard.
- Yes
- Yes, need to solder for lock if you want
- Yes, been answered in this thread and the razer thread many times.
- Yes, shouldn’t require that much force but break it if you have to. You won’t need the stock pcb any longer. It’s probably some glue.
thanks so much for the quick reply.
with…
-
is that a yes, u have to unscrew the metal plug? or yes to the part about if i cut the wires already on the board?
-
can u ELI5 what i need to do to connect both the home button and lock. like what wires connect to what parts etc.
-
where abouts on the UFB do i plug it in?
sorry if this is some elementary shit. i just havent a clue about this stuff.
- It comes out, just try harder lol
- The wire for home is on the diagram for the pcb in the razer thread. The lock switch you’ll have to use a meter for. You shouldn’t be modding without one.
- Read this and/or the razer thread for your answer on this.
New PS4 firmware out tomorrow. Check those Brook converters to ensure they don’t timeout after 8 minutes!
Hi guys I got a question, I’m interesting on installing the Player leds on my already ordered Brook UFB so I would like to know if I can use 3mm leds directly or do I need a resistance for each of the 4 leds?
By the way I’m upgrading from a PS360+ that unfortunately doesn’t works as XInput (Xbox 360 mode) on PC, at least only works with a very short cable (less than 1 meter).
Thanks.
＠ZeroX03
Thank you to share this message.
Brook are going to look on 3.50 tomorrow.
So I just bought a semi working UFB from hakdizzle …
I still haven’t seen it in person but apparently PINS 1-20 were destroyed, so from looking at stock Brooks photography I’m guessing that I can trace further back to get 4P directly from the chip, correct? but soldering to tiny areas like these make me nervous. Do you guys have any tips? I’m hoping that maybe I can manage to rescue part of the trace and use that so I don’t have to solder directly to the chip.
I don’t have it yet so I’m not sure how it actually looks in person or how bad the damage is, but I’ll post actual pictures as soon as I get it.
This isn’t the actual board, just a reference picture
if the 20p connector at the bottom is booboo can’t you just use the screw terminal? they’re 2 different traces
Doesn’t it got from the chip -> 20p -> the screw terminals? According to hakdizzle, “4P does not work” at all and 1-20pins were “messed up”. I don’t have the board yet, but I’m assuming he also tried the screw terminal before selling it off. I mean, who wouldn’t try the terminals??
This just makes me nervous now. I’m wondering how bad this thing is chopped up :S
The Screw terminals and the 20 pin connector should be parallel to each other.
Only way the 20 pin would effect the screw terminals is if something is bridged.
If the board is that screwed up as you said it was, I would not buy it.
Regardless we can’t make a final judgement till we see the actual board in question.
Yeah, I’ll just wait and see what comes in the mail. I’ll have pictures soon. :S
How different is a TE1 to a TE2 with regards to the EZ mod?
I can solder and don’t mind if it needs more work.
I wasn’t ever able to score a TE for the collection, so I’m not 100% certain without doing some searching on pinouts and such.
The TE is way different. Connectors are all different sizes and it won’t work for any of the PS3 versions since you need to solder on the back of the turbo panel.
I never received an answer, I hope this helps anyone else. I recommend the Neutrik 4 pin connector, works flawlessly and never comes loose. You only need four poles as USB is only four wires. Hopefully this helps. UFB is freaken amazing 
Jw why that one instead of ethernet
Nailed it… we are working on a UFB, Kaimana Kit so you can get everything to convert with leds in one package.
@poisonmar
To test 4P on J9… If it still don’t work , please return it.
Maybe have a issue on screw terminals