Thanks! Iāll reply later when I get to a PC, but I got you.
I was going to say if you update on a PC without issue and you get a bsod when itās done, it has to do with the xb1 drivers. I would recommend holding 1p 2p or 3p during the update. It will fail verification, but the update will go through and youāll know it when your joy.cpl says youāre in either āP3 wired controllerā or āXbox controllerā or whatever 360 mode says.
If you got that far, youāll be fine. Just remember to always hold 3p while plugging in for xinput (360) mode. Youāll work fine on consoles as well.
Thank you so much man! If youāre at Evo ( which I assume you wil be) lunch on me! do here is a recap of what im ordering just to make sure Looking for the easiest install as this is my first mod to a stick.
connect USBVCC from turbo into your vcc screw terminal so your LEDs are brighter
you have no GND from what I can tell coming from turbo, so run that as well
nix turbo and use it for touch for more practical use, but thatās your choice
if youāre going to use turbo, connect any of the leftover pins to TBLED so you can see that turbo is active
So I got a Brook board on the way but I have decided to use a ribbon cable solution on this TE mod and see how it goes. That being said, can anybody help me figure out some of the following:
What is the pitch (the spacing between the holes) on J9? Iām looking at a standard 20 pin connector like this: http://www.digikey.ca/short/38hzf5
Iām sure it will probably work, I have to check the pin outs of the aux panel though. Since the PS4 got the major FGC releases I predict the PS4 version of the stick is a more popular buy.
Adapting the EZ Mod to support alt pinouts isnāt hard though, a universal TE2 EZ MOD is achievable. I suspect that there are almost 0 differences in the tooling of the case, so fit should be spot on.
For anyone getting the Blue Screen of Death (iusb3hub.sys), I found a solution that worked for me. I think it was a previously posted solution in this same thread, but I canāt find it now.
Control Panels -> Programs -> Uninstall a program -> Uninstall INTEL USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller Driver
My problem was that after plugging in my stick, I would immediately get the BSOD. My computer would try to reboot, but wouldnāt be able to unless I removed the stick. I tried updating my motherboardās chip drivers, USB drivers, and the BIOS but none of those fixed the issue.
Some more info on my stick:
I have an Eightarc Ebony Fusion and the PCB died just recently, so I ordered the Brook board. The Eightarc PCB previously worked on my PC without any issues. Now with the Brook PCB I just have to hold the P3 button down to get my computer to recognize it (as stated by other posts).
sorry if this get a bit bulky but i have a whole bunch of questions as this is my first time modding a stick.
its xbox one razer atrox that ill be putting a UFB in. I got a UFB with all headers on its way from PAS.
i dont have my own soldering iron so im trying to avoid any soldering if possible.
id also like to get as much functionality back as possible.
im looking at changing the power cord so i can plug a usb into the UFB instead of soldering the wire there currently.
iāve unscrewed everything. see here. but it doesnt actually come off. do i have to unscrew the back or something. this thing here?
if i cant change it to a usb⦠i should be able to just cut the wires already soldered to board, strip them back and put a pin connector on it to plug into UFB, right?
this wire is for the lid button led i believe. am i able to plug that into the UFB?
i was going to use the pre-existing cabling for the buttons. 1 pre-existing quick disconnect per button and then make a daisy chain for the grounds. is this right?
also any tips for unplugging the connector from the pcb? i feel like if pull any harder i might break something lol.