Yeah, soldering is very easy, i dont have a problem with it. Cool, so touch panel will just open up menus basically? guess ill use those two buttons then.
thanks
@Vecayse just to go over what i had to do for UFB on my PS4 TE2:
USB wires were de-soldered from TE2 main PCB, then soldered onto UFB. thereâs an extra shield wire compared to the usual but you can ignore that
the ribbon cables from the secondary PCB have the home button and other functions, so youâll at least have to split up the wires for home button off the ribbon, extend and wire them properly to UFB
main inputs are p straightforward to transfer over
i did the player LED by soldering a hex inverter, this probably goes back a few pages on this thread (credits to @Torta @âLetram Chiâ @Vicko and others at the time that showed me how to do this)
i went and wired the joystick mode button and start/select lock button (also from secondary PCB) to L3 and R3. i suppose iâll print some kind of label to cover the non-functioning LED holes
with the newest firmware, wired the touchpad button to select instead.
now the stick does almost everything i wanted it to do. next is LED mod from paradise arcade shop =)
Has anyone done the install for the Quanba Q2 Pro Blackout? Iâm not sure where the wires are for the Select and Home. Also which wires do I solder to the board so I can use the same USB cable
Board is amazing worked so well at FR 19. Entered USFIV and SFV with no problems. Player LEDâs, Home Key, and Touch Pad Key worked flawlessly. Plug and play felt so right :-). I did update to the latest firmware to fix the Win 10 Timeout issue and to have the latest firmware as well. Confirmed Timeout is fixed with newest firmware. Updating firmware was pain free.
Female Port Iâm looking to replace with a DIN Connector? Or RJ-45 Jack? Whatever is best for tournament ready connection aka not plugging out during a match lol
Only thing is my female USB port I have on it, just a standard micro to USB Female which I solder onto the board works flawlessly but it does seem to be able to pull out easily. I have heard of Neutrik USB and Din connectors. What is the most secure way of having a female port on the stick? A connector like they have on the TEâs or I can also just solder an Ethernet jack on there. Then make an Ethernet to USB. Please any recommendations on that would be highly appreciated. Willing to solder, want an effective solution doesnât have to be easy. Thanks guys. The idea of having a stick that works in multiple systems is so sick. Tested at FR 19 and it was awesome to just have one stick for multiple different system/games.
Coming soon for HRAP4s This is just one part of the overall kit required to upgrade this and call it an EZ MOD still. Designed specifically for the Brook UFB. I know it will be available in my shop at the least. Probably at ArcadeShock too
I havenât seen anything in the Brook website, but I know with the Brook super converters you can mimic the left/centre/right touch pad by using a combination set of buttons, can this be done on the UFB?
I have the Fightboard and I know I can replicate the touch key, but nothing that I could find regarding the touchpad without actually having a touch pad.
Is it possible to do using âselectâ and âleft/rightâ for example?
installed my ufb last night, damn, i was surprised how tiny the screw terminals were. People not comfortable with soldering will probably have trouble if they want those buttons. Especially the spot i had to solder for the touch pad/L3. Seems to be working just need to do the latest firmware update.
hmmâŚseems there is no one with a hitbox who used this board so i have to ask you guys.
i used a brook converter on a hitbox from someone else and i noticed that you could not
input holding down, pressing forward twice which registers then as downforward to get the
shortcut for a shoryuken.
I decided to upgrade to Windows 10 and now my stick works with my computer. It was definitely an issue with the Intel 3.0 usb drivers. Thanks to everyone that helped me. Iâm so happy now.
the game allows it just the converter seemed to change it by whatever reason.
thats why i am intested in if it will be the same with this board.
my hitbox right now works as a keyboard when it comes down to how the inputs
get registered. i would like to achieve the same with this board when possible.
Installed this on my control panel yesterday (should get the body back fro paint today) . It was a pleasure to work on and everything worked perfectly the first time.
Has anyone thrown one of these in a Hori fighting edge? My buddy is waiting for it to come in the mail and i was just curious so i could give him any advice if he runs into trouble