I was thinking PAS, but I’ll get stung on shipping to the UK (and that’s assuming I don’t get hit with duty fees) so it looks like I’ll be buying from ArcadeWorldUK. Solder won’t be an issue - I’ve got an electrician friend who built his own supergun, and he’s willing to help me the next time I visit. I’m just not sure what the process would be to add connections - screw ins would be great, like all the basic connections it already has, but I can’t find that part in a 2mm pitch online,
In regards to the soldering for the USB cable. Can’t I just get an A-B USB cable going straight from the board to the console? I’ll of course make a loop and bolt it to the inside of the stick.
yes of course, that’s why that USB mount is on the fightboard in the first place. soldering USB cables would be to reuse pre-existing cables inside a fightstick, etc.
I don’t know if this was answered here but does this work 360 games that are compatible to Xbox One?
@ DJ Divine. Thanks for clarifying that for me. I was confused on why everyone was soldering when you can get a 10 ft cable on Amazon for 6 bucks. Thanks again!!
Thanks for answering I’ve always been curious about these PCBs.
Is there any reason to hook up a DP LS RS switch if I want directional control over the d pad only?
Ordered two that I’ll be putting on my original VLX’s 
How difficult are these to install in the PS4 TE2s? (the blue one)
Also would I be able to use the wire/connector that comes stock with the stick, or will I need to get a different USB cable or something?
The buttons and joystick wiring is easy to swap over, just cut (or replace if you want it to be reversible) you might have to splice or solder the wiring for the guide panel and USB cable.
The TE2 mod will require soldering. The USB cable itself for example has to be cut off the board and installed onto the UFB.
The Ribbon cables from the aux board (with START/SEL/PS) will need to be cut (or carefully removed and soldered to the UFB…
Jasen
Thanks for the replies. I guess it’s probably better to just buy an empty case. Is there good place that sells cheap wooden cases?
Modding is definitely cheaper than buying additional parts
I’m having a similar problem in 360 mode where down+left+up = up but down+right+up = right.
Was this ever addressed?
Edit: Nevermind, just updated to the newest firmware and everything is good. Thanks!
I will have limited internet access for the next couple of days, about to start modding my case to throw a brook board in it. Should be coming in today, quick question, besides my 6 action buttons, will i only need 3 additional buttons, start, select, home? Or will it be ideal to add another button or two that the newer systems might need. I have 5 24mm buttons i can use total, so if its a good idea or will save me trouble in the future please lmk.
thanks
If you know how to solder there are additional buttons you can access such as touch panel and l3. Touch panel is used for various things like button config in sf4 and l3 is used to reset in training mode in sfv.
I just bought the brooks ufb and I’m having a custom case made for all additional buttons. I plan on having L3, R3, & touch key on the right side of my case followed by start, select, home & rapid fire on the top front of the stealth 7 case. I also plan on incorporating a sp3t switch to be able to switch the joystick from dpad, Ls anologe & Rs anologe. Love the versatility of the brooks chip. I’m going solderless but I had to buy a second foehammer harness to accommodate the extra 7 buttons.