@mR_CaESaR
In ArcadeShock says…shipping them out around mid to the end of March.
I bought mine a week ago from ParadiseArcadeShop.com not sure if they ran out and have them for preorder now…
I think they ran out and waiting on a restock
[EDIT] Sorry, wrong thread - was looking for advice to fit one of these in a Venom
They are 2mm pitch.
How easy would this be to install for someone modding their stick for the first time? I see it has screw in terminals so presumably no need to solder?
I’d be putting it into a HRAP 3 VX SA (Actually a UMVC3 stick but from what I know they’re the same) and this seems like the ideal solution to move between different consoles. If people are having good experiences with this then I’ll probs invest in getting another stick/board and set that up too.
easy mode, but you still need to research and put in effort.
you need to find the pcb pinout so you know what wires go where. you will also need to connect the existing USB wires to the board. I spliced 2 different cables together without soldering by using a terminal strip to connect the existing USB cable in my stick (I can show you pics to help you understand if you would like).
I went with the solderless route since I’m not familiar with soldering electronics and I’m not trying to learn through experimenting on expensive sticks and pcbs.
Yeah I’d prefer to go solderless. It’s been so many years since I even touched a soldering iron that I’d almost certainly screw something up.
I’m assuming it wouldn’t be hard to strip the end of the USB cable and connect it to the board but I may just end up buying a new USB cable to plug into the port on the board just to save hassle. Also yeah if you’d be willing to show pictures that’d be helpful. The main problem I’m having with researching this atm is figuring out how i’d connect the panel with the home button/select/turbo switches to the board, and there seems to be not a whole lot of documentation of people making this mod with the stick I’ve got (mostly more recent Hori’s or TE’s). Could just be down to my inexperience though.
@rampantlemming
Here is more detail connection diagram
http://www.brookaccessory.com/detail/07634198/
Thanks, though I’ve actually already read that diagram. I was more referring to trying to figure out which wire is which coming from the top panel of my own stick, as they aren’t really labelled. Everything else seems pretty straightforward.Anyway this has more to do with dual-modding basics/my own stick at this point so I’ll take my questions elsewhere.
As for the fighting board itself, it looks like www.akishop.jp also has them for pre-order for a March 23rd ship date (the shipping from them works out cheaper for me since I’m in Australia, don’t know what it’s like for people based in the US). Might be worth looking into if Arcade Shock and Paradise Arcade Shop run out of stock.
Hey has anyone heard if arcadeshock has them in stock yet? I ordered mine a few weeks ago and when I ordered it, the site said that they should start shipping again on March 12th. I’ve sent multiple emails to the site and have not heard back.
Hello! Two questions that are kinda related:
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What is the J9 jumper function? It seems to follow the PS360+ pin order, something like “alternative hookup”. Is that only if you want to connect things there, or is that a dual mod thing like auto detection of other boards or anything This shows the J9
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If the above is true, how would be the best way to make a dreamcast dual mod with that board. And if the above is true, what alternatives I have to make a dreamcast dual mod?
J9 is for 20-pin harnesses that you can make yourself, or from stores like paradise arcade shop. it’s an alternative connection to using the screw terminals for 8 face buttons, start/select/home. and joystick.
How do you check which firmware version a board is currently running?
not really sure but if you get 8-min timeout on ps4, you’re running on an older firmware.
also if your touchpad button (that’s if you wired one) acts as select on consoles other than ps4, you’re running on current firmware.
Haven’t wired touch and won’t have access to a PS4 till FR…probably too late by then lol
Tried to update it on PC and it kept failing but I know others have received a failed update message even though it was successful (due to drivers or something I think).
I’ll try a diff port and see if that makes a differece when I get home.
on a pc, try forced 360 mode (hold 3P/heavy punch and plug in) and see if you get a xbox 360 controller to come up on your devices and printers in win7. not quite sure but mostly the same in win10 i think. if forced 360 mode works, then you can test whether your touchpad button activates select from game controller settings. that should do the trick.
So
If I bought one of these without additional soldering, what are the names of the parts I’d need to add those screw terminals to the entire board? Is it possible to get a secure connection without the use of solder?
You can buy from PAS and have the additional headers added.
Solder is the most reliable method, anything else would be a frustrating waste of time and/or ugly otherwise.