holy crap, will it kill my LED sequin quicker over time or something, if it’s connected to 5v over 3.3v? i don’t think it’s entirely harmful since it works, but somewhat afraid.
EDIT: seems like it’s ok to do this since the LED sequin was designed for 3 to 6V? https://www.adafruit.com/products/1756
if it’s too bright, use a higher rated resistor
Please go into detail on how you fixed it. I just wanna use my custom stick so bad.
Would anyone know if this would board would fit a Namco stick?
I just found my old one recently and would’ve mind making it a portable and universal stick.
Yes, but depending on your requirements you’ll need to install up to 2 extra buttons for Home and Touchpanel
I tried uninstalling my usb 3.0 drivers but sadly it made all my usb ports unusable. Even my 2.0 ones.
Then you uninstalled the incorrect drivers, you need to remove
INTEL USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller Driver
I did this using the add remove programs section of windows and i still have use of all of my ports. After the uninstall, the USB 2.0 drivers were still intact but the 3.0 extensible driver was no longer there. So as stated below your uninstalling the function that would get you 3.0 speeds. All ports will be downgraded to 2.0.
Here is an excerpt from one of the articles troubleshooting the driver problem.
**You have to uninstall the driver in your standardsoftware folder not in hardware devices. The Intel USB 3.0 eXtensible host controller driver is known broken. If you want to use external devices you have to uninstall them and wait for intel to fix it.
When you uninstall it all ports work with printers etc. but you lose USB 3.0 speed.
And i repeat dont uninstall it in your device manager that will cause bugging some other stuff maybe. You have to uninstall it in your standardsoftware folder in your windows systemtools. **
However i tried to copy over the 3.0 drivers a few weeks ago and disabled all of my ports as well, I had to hook up the drive to another PC, as luckily i save the original back up files, and put them back as they were.
I don’t know which files you removed or how you did it, but your gonna have to use a sata to USB adaptor and plug that drive into another PC and put the drivers back to get it back functional, or a complete format and reinstall of windows.
Hopefully @ignat will post his process of manually removing the drivers as well, as he was successful.
what pitch are the turbo/LED/Touchpad holes on the board? I bought 2.54mm screw terminals, but they are too big. maybe i should get jst mounts?
A few questions about this board, since I’ll probably grab one next month:
What’s the best way to connect the two upper PCBs from the Venom PS4 to the board? I’d be getting a Brook with the headers presoldered since I can’t solder (don’t have the tools or the necessary hand/eye). It looks like I should be able to strip the wires from the existing ribbons then extend them, but what tools/parts would I need to attach them to the board headers?
stripping individual wires from the ribbon cable and extending still takes some soldering iirc. you need the 4-pin or 5-pin harness to fit each header, w or w/o pre-crimped wires already there, so depending on that, you’d either need soldering equipment and/or wire stripping and crimping tools/parts.
It wont let me uninstall it from the add remove programs sections. Tells me uninstall is not allowed for this platform. This is just a nuisance.
At this point it’s a PC issue not a brook issue. Sucks that it happens with this board but I’m sure there’s other peripherals that do the same thing.
Ok,
A confirmed fix for the BSOD is to disable xhci in bios or UEFI and remove the 3.0 drivers via software uninstall (do not do it via the system devices interface).
I did both of these fixes and now the board does not crash my motherboard, and works perfectly. You must also have the xboxone drivers installed, in my case no force mode was necessary. PC recognizes the board as an xboxone controller.
Seems the problem is with this driver INTEL USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller Driver, and 3.0 ports. There has been an issue with this driver for years that apparently intel did not address properly.
So the best solution is to just remove the drivers and settle for 2.0 speeds. I did both to be safe, not sure is disabling xhci would of done it on its own, which is basically disabling the 3.0 handoff.
I’ll try that after work but last I checked my BIOS only have xhci hand-off in it.
Trying again this is odd. So on PC (and so far pc only), the UFB has frequently been turning light kick into the start button. IE: When I press light kick, I get start, but only when I am in the menu system (and not every time I press the jab either). If I reset my pc, the problem dissapears, but now can come back after an hour or so. In game (IE: when fighting), it always works fine. I can guarantee there are no wiring issues or any kind of hardware problems. Whenever I go to joytokey and see if pressing light kick is activating other buttons, joytokey says its only pressing one button. Also, joytokey is disabled so thats not the problem. Any thoughts? Thank you for your time!@
Intriguing situation: On pc only, the UFB has frequently been turning light kick into the start button. When I press light kick, I get the input for start, but only when I am in the menu system and not every time I press light kick either. If I reset my pc, the problem goes away, but will often come back. When fighting opponents, I always get the light kick input and never start. There are no wiring problems, and whenever I use joytokey, and press light kick, I can tell only one button is activating. Also, joytokey is disabled, so thats not the source of the problem. Any thoughts? Thanks for your time!
That’s ok disable it, that may fix your problem w/o removing the drivers, if not uninstall the drivers and you should be good to go.
Can’t uninstall it in any way. I keep getting an error that reads uninstall is not allowed for this platform.
So this will help you VLX owners out there upgrade your PS4 VLX with a Brook UFB. Very simple, no cutting wires, no permanently changing the VLX:
Thanks for creating this Jasen / AS ! I already chopped up my original Red VLX with a UFB and wanted to leave the kuro edition pristine…until now…