I asked if there was a retailer that sold the boards with headers already soldered on, not for anything else. And yeah you incorrectly assumed I am modding a TE.
Offering me assistance with what exactly? I asked a question and you start talking about something that’s not related to what I asked. I didn’t ask for anything other than info on a retailer that sells the pcbs with the headers already soldered on (which the poster before you already provided). If you feel like I’m giving you shit and don’t understand why you should try reading people’s posts thoroughly before answering anything.
I am making a hit box type fight stick and I’d like to know about the old and new SOCD behavior. SOCD cleaning is commonly L+R. = neutral.
my personal preference is L+R=last input so L+R=R and R+L=L. and I like U+D=U
Yeah you’re giving me shit because rather than just say “Oh I’m modding a VLX, sorry” you get passive aggressive.
If you’ve kept up with this thread I have been offering sound advice on all types of sticks and setups. I’m sure you already tested your PCB to see if you’re common anode or cathode and know what to do and how to do it. My mistake for assuming what you were using but your response was uncalled for. You came in here asking about headers and you don’t want to solder so I figured just like the other 15 pages of people asking questions you would want a little heads up of what was involved aside from cut, strip, insert.
Don’t let it get to you @Vicko . I might not post much at all but you are always helping people who have questions. I know a lot of people in this thread appreciate the help and advice you have given.
The eightarc doesn’t have the start button on the right side like a q4 does. They actually removed the “mode” button (q4 has it) and added a start to the control panel. The PCB inside a eightarc is the qanba q4 and they never bothered to re-label it properly. However the pinout goes in the same order as the button layout - so it’s a easy fix.
Have to agree @Vicko, up until about a month ago, my activity in the tech forum had been very limited, but in a lot of the threads I’ve come across, yours and @Darksakul 's name has regularly popped up as some of the most helpful. I applaud you and Darksakul’s efforts
Hey, I know I’m a week late but I’m still waiting for my Daisy chain from the U.K. I’m on a Qanba Q4RAF (the PS3/360/PC version)
If I don’t care about the LEDs or turbo right now, I just wire the wires (p/k buttons + start button, stick and select/share and home) into their corresponding slot on the screwboard, right? Thing is, as you probably know having fixed a Q4, the top panel on the front of the stick with both the home button, select and turbo button (MODE is also there) has a separate board for them. If I’m getting this right, I just take the ends of the cables going TO the old PCB from the top panel board and wire them to their corresponding slots? Where does the GND cable from the top panel board go on the UFB?
Also, if I eventually decide that I want to have my turbo button as the TPKEY and my LEDs installed, I’d have to solder, I assume? The TPKEY point seems to need a GND connection too and if I decide to wire my Turbo button to that point, what do I use as the GND and where does it go FROM the UFB to the top panel?
Sorry if this got super complicated, right now all I care about is getting my stick working with the buttons and the stick (and also home, start and select). So that’d be my primary concern.
@NotDaleCooper when you crack open your Q4, you’ll see that the control panel is completely labeled - including ground. Since the UFB is common ground you can plug the ground into any of the multiple grounds on the board. I recommend just cutting and slicing the existing ribbon cable and screwing each connection right into the terminals. Turbo or mode can be mapped to TP Key by soldering. For the main buttons, leave one stock wire on each button for the inputs and build a daisy chain for the grounds. If you don’t care about the LEDs, just unplug that wire harness (as with the headphone/mic board). One awesome thing about the Q4/Eightarc is that the UFB fits almost perfect in the spot of the old PCB, the screw terminals even line up.
Thanks! Sounds easy enough! I screwed the GND wire from the control panel board into a GND slot on the UFB screwboard? Will this be enough for grounding if I do decide to solder the LEDs and the MODE key to the TPKEY point? Both the TPKEY and Turbo point have GND points, but will me plugging the GND wire from the control panel into the UFB via one of the GND slots (screwboard) be enough?
Also, I plugged the VDD from the control panel into the VCC screwboard slot. I read elsewhere in this thread that that was what you’re supposed to do. Am I correct about this? If I don’t need the VDD wire to the VCC at all, I could just unplug the entire cable as I did with the headphone jack? It just controls the LEDs?
Thanks for the help! I’m really excited to get on with SFV next week (yeah, I’m a little late because of the upcoming PCB change in my stick)!
(A firmware updated to prevent 8-minute timeout on PS4)
So a couple of questions.
Is this a currently working fix?
Can anybody making a stick with a PS360+ PCB get this firmware update?
This makes the only remaining advantages of the Brook PCB to be auto-detect and Xbone functionality, right? How much of an inconvenience is the lack of auto-detect to a tournament player? (One of the few times this stick will be plugged into a console anyways).
Thanks in advance guys, you’re always very helpful in the Tech Talk section
I installed the UFB in a PS3 fightstick pro and everything is working great except the player LEDs. I wired them directly from the turbo panel pcb to the UFB but they don’t light up.
Is a 74HC04 inverter (that was mentioned a couple pages back) required?
Answering the only question relevant to the Brook PCB:
The Brook PCB auto detects all platforms and adds multiple console support to any stick it is used in. That advantage is that there is no converters required that add processing of the signal.
The Brook team has been responsive to updates of the consoles and updated firmware appropriately to keep them working without timeouts, drops, etc.
The PS360+ is not the Brook UFB, it uses a different architecture completely and is NOT COMPATIBLE with any Brook firmware.
1)Is there a USB passthrough functionality or some way to get the UFB and a Kaimana mini to share the same USB connector?
2)Is it ok to bridge 1 physical button to activate 2 on the brook? like P4 and touchpad? or Select and touchpad?
Headphone support would be a huge deal. make it happen Brook.
I don’t see why they couldn’t make a firmware writing software that could give a few options before writing, like SOCD behavior ( I like R+L= most recent) and button assignments when in certain modes, like assign Select button to touchpad when in PS4
No, you need an IMP or something to swap data lines, or just open your stick and plug in every time to update.
Yes, but the new firmware makes TP work as select on all consoles, so do you don’t necessarily need to bridge or install another button unless you want SHARE on ps4.
Doubtful since all new consoles and ps3 use bluetooth for 3rd party accessories, or use a 2nd controller.
Open source would probably be a bad thing for their business, and see #2.
Are you sure about #3? somewhere in microsoft’s documentation it says that when you plug in a controller the data is going over USB.
About #4, I never said anything about open source. you could still have a closed system with options. A GUI on PC could have options to select and write an encrypted firmware with the options that were chosen.
