correct
auto detect, no timeout and xb 1
Ah okay, that no PS4 timeout seems to be quite a significant selling point for sure.
I’m actually only playing on PC nowadays, however I want multi-platform compatibility for the purpose of using 1 stick for all tournaments/all situations.
Are tournaments playing on XBox or Playstations platforms? Or is it just a mix right now depending on the tournament host?
only KI is on XB1, marvel on 360, everything else on PS4
maybe GGX on ps3 idk
Hey vicko can a ps3 OG Te’s leds be used for a board like this? I’ve never seen it mentioned in any of the ps3 te tutorials…
Yes, I’m actually making a picture to show where to solder but I haven’t gotten around to testing for the lock switch. I’ll post in a bit.
Glad someone appreciates my help YKWIS
thanks to @Torta @“Letram Chi” @Vicko i got my madcatz logo LED working the other day, now player LEDs too! soldering to the legs of that inverter was kind of a pain, but i managed, as well as hid all the wires and inverter in the secondary TE2 board cover. feels goodman
Did you end up replacing the LED or what?
Hey Vicko, thanks for the help. Here are better pictures of the internals of my stick. It seems that each button is individually attached to the LED PCB.
I don’t necessarily mind losing the LED functionally for the buttons as I’ve already disabled that option, however I would still prefer to keep using the three small LEDs on the bottom of the stick.
Would it be difficult to implement the lighting for all the buttons or just ditch it and opt for the 3 LEDs? It does also appear I will have to de-solder all the cabling or cut it off. Thanks again.
I’m not sure how your LEDs don’t work anyway. Everything looks fine unless you removed something I can’t see/tell from your pics.
Basically you’re going to either cut very close to the PCB or desolder your blue wires from your Paewang and also the black wires on top of it. Both sets of wires correspond to each button, so put them both onto/into your UFB. Jab/jab, short/short, etc. Also remove the 5 colored wires in your 2nd/3rd pic; those are for the stick. Then either get a new USB cable or cut/desolder and resolder to the UFB.
The 3 LEDs should be just a power and ground, so just wire that little breadboard directly to your UFB.
ezpz
Get a multimeter, makes things so much easier when testing so you dont end up rewiring from scratch or getting overwhelmed.
so after some debating im picking one of these up, however my soldering iron is busted to all hell. with paradise arcade shop i noticed you can get different option such as all pins and usb soldered to the board already. does this mean i wont have to solder anything? thankyou in advance.
They won’t be all screw terminals like the inputs. You’ll most likely have to crimp wires with pin connectors to connect to the headers. But that’s technically solderless.
What are you putting it into?
If you don’t care about touch button and LEDs then you could just connect all the buttons/stick to the screwdowns and connect a new USB cable to the usb jack. That requires no soldering.
im putting in a modded hrap3
You’re a champion, thank you. The LEDs on the buttons don’t work as I disabled them by holding down a few buttons when plugging the stick into a console. I’ll make the order for the UFB tonight and get back to you once everything is done.
@Vicko yes i had to replace the madcatz logo LED. i saw that the tiny board for this had the LED and resistor all added on, so i’m guessing on the TE2 main pcb there’s more stuff this board needed that UFB doesn’t supply with just 3vcc and gnd.
i replaced it with an LED sequin from adafruit that just requires 3vcc and gnd (even tinier, has its own resistor, works perfectly)
i posted pics a few posts ago if you’d like to check it out.
I finished my installation and it was pretty no hassle.
The only hold up is that I couldn’t find a way to use my eightarc’s “start” button, so now the “start” function is mapped onto where the “select/options” button is. Still works, just not where it should be.
The issue is that there isn’t a dedicated “start” wire to connect to the Brook that I could find. If anyone knows of a way to fix this hmu.
8arc should be the same as the q4, check that thread for the pin out. What does your pcb look like?
Iirc, the turbo panel has like 7 wires, last 2 are start and home. Don’t quote me but if you have a meter, check it out.
Almost immediately after I posted I double checked and figured it out. Start isn’t labeled on the lower panel but it is on the upper board that I removed before installation.
Wires were actually: Start, Select, Mode, Turbo, PS, ground, and switch. I previously had them all one over because start was missing.
Thanks for your help though 