Brook Universal Fighting Board Thread

Tech Talk
741

As far as #3 is concerned. The most recent firmware allows the Touchpad button to be Select on everything that’s not a PS4.

742

Real answers:

  1. Yes, but I would desolder.
  2. Yes.
  3. See above.
  4. No, unless you mess up and need to run a new wire.
743

Lol!

I’m not a complete novice when it comes to soldering, wiring etc. But it’s just the worksmanship on this stick is incredible. I’d just like to make it compatible with the newest gen consoles (screw legacy PS4 controller support) without changing the look of the internals too much. That’s all I ask.

744

Won my first tournament with an ultimate fight board, it was good times!!! Recorded on twitch.tv/finestko. Cheers to everyone!

745

Another question folks, do I require the soldered headers at all? All I want is to re-enable the LEDs and use the Touchpad button.

746

You either need headers or just solder directly to the board. Not hard.

747

any way i could get these pcbs with all the headers already on it, i cant solder for jack and i’m in the same boat as the above poster as I’m looking to enable the player lights and touchpad without having to solder.

any distributors plan on selling it like this?

748

What TE are you using? You will need to solder if it’s a PS3 model, and the ps4/3 TE2 requires an inverter.

749

Paradise Arcade Shop sells them with all the headers soldered for a nominal fee.

750

awesome thats what I was looking for, thank you @eightbitminiboss !

751

no wtf button available…

752

Not sure what that means, and you didn’t answer my question. Only the 360 TE, TE2, and xb1 TE2 are solder free and bs free when it comes to the LEDs. The PS3/4 TE2 requires an inverter for the LEDs because they are common anode and not common cathode.

So, which TE do you have?

753

TE isnt the only stick with LEDs, anyways my question is answered. thanks

754

no

755

I’m offering assistance and you’re giving me shit? Ok lol

I didn’t say only stick with leds, I said with solder free LEDs. If I incorrectly assumed you had a TE then my bad.

756

I’ve got a couple of questions about the PCB:

  1. Would it be possible to connect Sanwa buttons to the U/D/L/R inputs instead of a conventional stick? (a sort of HitBox type configuration)
  2. Any idea when I’ll be able to purchase this product in the UK? As I am currently planning to build a new stick.
  3. The “technical spec testing” review of the PCB given in the OP link didn’t really tell me any information regarding input lag to the various consoles or PC. Has anybody tested for any input lag on each system? I’m asking because the preface of “from a casual player perspective” and the lack of multiple platform delay tests worries me, especially since I know these multi-platform PCBs have always had a history of input delay.
757
  1. yes
  2. you could import from PAS or AWUK when they decide to get them from PAS/AS/Brook
  3. Not yet, there’s a separate thread for that. Also, even though I feel that list to be bullshit, the PS360+ is supposedly the best PCB on the market and that is the de facto multi console PCB.
758

I wont publish my lag findings as they are just one round of testing on firmware that no longer is loaded on the boards. That being said, the board was 1 frame faster than the Hori FC4 on PS3 and PS4 and the same as the MKX PDP pad on 360/ONE.

As Vicko said, don’t put much weight in those lag threads/findings. All it takes is one update on the console, game, or firmware to completely debunk all findings. Additionally, there is no scientific standard that takes into to account everything that affects responsiveness anyways.

759

Are you saying that the TE2 for xbox 360 doesnt need and inverter for the LEDs to solder onto BUFB?

760

That’s fair enough, however the “Universal PCB project” has been running on SRK for what, a decade or so now right? And correct me if I’m wrong here, but I believe there hasn’t been a single multi-platform PCB which can function on all platforms without at least 1 frame of input lag on at least 1 of the systems? That’s one of my biggest concerns here.

Also, when I made my last stick 9~10 years ago now that was made from the guts of a 360 wired controller and the PCB had to be scraped of epoxy resin and holes drilled through the PCB before soldering as to not ruin the copper tracings (very very easy to ruin these PCBs particularly if working with a non heat controlled soldering iron). After this long hiatus I see this isn’t so much an issue anymore with these PCBs being readily available.

Anyway, more to the point, I’m now trying to decide between the PS360+ or this Brook board. They seem to be the same in functionality.

Why should I buy this board instead of the cheaper PS360+?