if you guys remember, i was trying to make this switch toggle between touchpad and select for ps4, but did not work out quite well. whichever button signal that was wired to the left joint would hold when the switch is on the left, and would not respond to the button itself. button signal wired to the right joint activates and doesn’t hold when the switch is on the right. i don’t quite remember what the middle joint did, but w/e button signal wired to it did not work.
so this UFB update is amazing for me. i’m ok w/ just re-wiring the share button inside my TE2 for the times i need to update the firmware XD
i was thinking about wiring the ground that goes to the LED mod (kaimana j’s, for my future plans at least) to the solder joints underneath the console switch. as described above, left joint has traces to hold ground signal when switch is on the left, so maybe i can flip the switch to the right to cut off the signal (turn off gnd signal to the first kaimana j, thus turning everything off)? does this sound right? anyone would like to experiment with their TE2? this is all i found out for now…
EDIT: i mentioned i’d update everyone on this… so i replaced the madcatz logo LED (the tiny board) with an LED sequin that simply requires 3vcc and gnd:
so now i got P1~P4 LEDs left to wire (just got an inverter so i’m about to try tonight), as well as firmware update and re-wiring touchpad =) that should be most everything i needed to do with UFB. i almost have the perfect fightstick!
@zombiewhere
The UFB ran well in automatic mode on all game consoles. The Windows are complex system so that my suggestion is running 360 by the forced mode on PC.
Easiest way to do it is to cut all the wires from buttons and stick, and stick them into the screw terminals
as far as the home button and whatever, use the Razer Atrox thread for pinout
Installed Brook Board onto friend’s 360 V.S. Stick. Works like a charm for all of the consoles but after installing the firmware for the PC, he is suffering lots of input lag.
Anyone else have this issue or any solutions? (After 20 second of plugging it in, it starts to slow down a 10th of a second)
first report of that issue ive seen… have you tried other PCs? also can you be more specific? what version of windows? usb 2 or 3 port? upload a video? etc…
Intruiging thoughts: when i first plugged it into my pc, i experienced a ton if lag (didnt hold any button down when inserting stick). After playing a couple rounds The lag didnt go away. Windows 10 pc. I unplugged the stick and held down lk, and inserted into the pc. The lag had dissapeared. Am i crazy? This is most recent software upgrade. My friends guessed it may have been emulation oddities, but not sure. Anyone else have any issue like this? Its very possible i am just too old and gone crazy.
What were you playing? I do have that weird issue too. Was it SFV or other games? I only encountered it on SFV.
Today on my setup, the board just doesn’t even work on SFV and I am on the latest firmware. I tried other games like USFIV and KOFXIII and it works fine (on all modes). I was at a tournament where there was a PC setup and was working just fine. Both mine and the other setup is Windows 10 64bit.
In force mode, i havent gotten any lag. Was at a ps4 tourney today, usedforce mode, and worked perfectly. Im guessing the self selecting process is a bit buggy but otherwise stick is great!
Hey everyone, I’m planning on purchasing this board very shortly to mod my custom stick from B15Designs. Now I have a few questions;
#1 - Should I unmount the previously installed PCB, which may include cutting all the cables as it’s soldered onto the PCB? I really don’t want to damage the look of the wiring or internals. #2 - Am I still able to wire up the LEDs? I’ll take some proper internal images tonight. #3 - Can the Touchpad button and Select be on the one button? Or will that not work very well? #4 - Any new wiring I’ll need to purchase?
