For that I believe you wire it to VCC with an inline resistor, but don’t quote me on that.
Having this issue with a second board now. Tried different USB ports (2 and 3, front of PC and back) tried reinstalling the drivers, tried restarting. When I sometimes get the board to show up as an HID device for updates, the update application always fails when trying to verify.
I can’t be the only one having these issues. Anyone?
Hey, first time modder installing the PCB into an Eightarc Fusion. I’ve gotten the joystick and buttons working, but start/select/home aren’t responding at all despite following the same process. From reading this thread it sounds like it’s because it’s on an auxiliary board… would I be correct in assuming I can just take the VDD wire on the auxiliary board and plug that into the VCC slot on the PCB to get it all to work?
http://i.imgur.com/4FalSqH.jpg
Pic of the auxiliary board for reference.
Yep. Run VCC and GND to it in addition to whatever signals you need (in this case, Start, Select and Home).
Do you install XBOX One PC Driver on PC?
The application verified in XB1 mode on PC when updated successful…
if application verified failed, the UFB already updated completely. U can use the force 360 mode to try on PC.
I figured it out. I’m dumb and soldered the USB wires wrong. I always forget what colors correspond to what with USB cables and followed a pic on Google that was incorrect.
Now that I’m successfully over that, I have another question. I see that you can get the Brook with pinouts 20 pin and USB. Does anyone know where I can find the harness (or w/e it’s called) that would allow me to connect a USB cable to that pinout? Just curious, it will determine if it’s worth soldering the cables in the future. Thanks, and sorry for all the scrub questions.
So I installed this board in my Madcatz SCV TE and it works great, but when playing Street Fighter V on PS4 it tends to not respond to menu inputs. For example if I push start while in training mode sometimes it just stops functioning but this never happens while in game or with any other game. Any idea what could be causing this?
What do you mean to hardwire those two buttons? how would that be different than just dual modding as usual?
I don’t think that matters outside of using a crossbone. I could be wrong though.
[quote=“xeleion, post:646, topic:177444”]
@xeleion
Thanks your advice, I got it…
We will draw a picture about it and share on Brook official website.
Any idea how much resistance is needed? I don’t know what voltage the logo LED expects.
@Kempo
Depend on White LED spec
(1)Vf = 3.2V(typical)
(2)If = 20mA
While VCC = 5V, R = (5-3.2)/20mA = 90(ohm), so you can try to 100 (ohm), it’s popular.
Thanks Zippy I’ll give 100 ohms a try. You’re the best.
Thanks for everyone’s help everything up and running on both consoles! Just in time for release day (pheww) paradise arcade shops service is incredible to get that board over to me in the uk before release date shout out to them!
Aww man this thread is about the board, sorry
Thanks! Got it all working solder-free now.
@“Letram Chi” @Torta can i get you guys’ confirmation on how the TE2’s madcatz logo LED should be wired? doesn’t work after wiring red into VCC and black into GND directly on the UFB. i may have fried my LED?
Read a few posts up. You needed an inline resistor for the VCC line.
Already answered you homie
@Vicko i think i may have already fried my madcatz logo LED before trying your suggestions. ended up not working ;_;
@SHSL_Street_Fighter i’m still waiting for LED sequins that should be able to completely replace this part, and that has a resistor on the board. i think you’re right, and i probably screwed up before trying what Vicko said. complete replacement of the small LED board behind the madcatz logo might do the job. i’ll post some pics when it happens.