Yeah I see a few pages back a guy having a similar thing only different was he had two wires soldered at a different point which has confused me slightly
Iām not sure for me so I thinking its VCC 2 UFB and gnd linked to UFB would I need a wire soldered to go to the ps/Xbox terminal to make the home button function?
Maybe itās better instead that I drill a whole next to the start and select buttons and put my own 30mm button in for use as the home button if itās overly complicated the other way thanks
If you ask me, connecting to the turbo panel would be easier than adding a new physical button.
Just connect VCC, Ground and Home to the points shown below then screw them down to their corresponding points on the UFB.
Since youāre gonna be in there anyway, you may as well connect turbo and then connect it to TPKEY on the UFB so you can use turbo as touch.
So the news gets better as Vicko said that the home button was needed to turn on the stick as such I used what was the select button and switched it to the home button ps/Xbox to see if it functions at least properly and go from there, still nothing the boards blue led is lit the say there is power incoming via the type a to b usb cable maybe Iām missing something silly does the gnds have to be on a certain side of the switches maybe Iām stuck as hell I hope itās something stupid
Thanks again to all the help so far
Looking at youāre original setup, youāre D- and VCC appeared to be bridged. I know youāve since changed to using the onboard usb jack but not sure of the state the usb points on the UFB.
Do you have a pic of your updated setup?
Looks likes heās using the rj45 jack (replaced his back/select/share button) for legacy consoles and the original USB for the UFB which is auto detectā¦
This is concerning to me. Take a multimeter on continuity and test to see if those two points are connected. If so, the solder briding them together needs to be broken
As for being on a MAC, only option I can think of is find someone with a windows PC/Laptop who wouldnāt mind you using it for 10secs.
It would stop it from functioning but no permanent damage shouldāve been made.
If you start getting power to the wrong places then you could fry the board but you only messed up data lines so should be fine
Personally I use braid, its easier to work with and leaves a cleaner pad. That said though, if youāre just trying to brake a bridge like in the screenshot, you can just briefly run the iron through it as solder tends to migrate towards heat so it should go towards the iron before going elsewhere.
Anyone here tried connecting a MC Cthulhu with an imp v2 to the Brook board? Wondering if there would be any wonkiness with the autodetect function of both the PCBās together.
Not sure about autodetect wonkiness but youāll need to hardwire home and select when it comes to updating the UFB. Just run a ground and a signal line from the UFB to those two buttons and itāll register when you try to enter update mode