Brook Universal Fighting Board Thread

Vicko · February 15, 2016, 12:08am

you have to press home for it to work on those consoles i think

at least for ps4

ConCombo · February 15, 2016, 12:37am

.

ConCombo · February 15, 2016, 12:37am

I thought it was auto detect?

Vicko · February 15, 2016, 12:47am

It is autodetect, you still need to turn the controller “on”

ConCombo · February 15, 2016, 12:55am

Ok I see so i still have the turbo panel pcb with the home button, I’m not interested in the turbo as such, my guess would be to take a VCC from old pcb to the UFB VCC and same for the GND what about the actual points on the turbo panel pcb would I use to activate the home button for use? And that would go to the ps/Xbox slot on the UFB that’s possible right? Thanks

Crimson_Kino · February 15, 2016, 1:29am

yeah, it has the LED. I don’t want to do a lot of work which is why I would just like to swap. I was trying to mod the Razer Atrox and that stick was already enough work. Will the LED lights make it harder?

Josh_P · February 15, 2016, 1:46am

For Brooke and any associated creators: I have updated my stick to current firmware, and works perfectly on Windows 7 (professional, no special drivers installed)/10 (standard edition, no extra drivers installed), and xbox 360. I’ll update as I get access to more consoles. Had to try to update firmware twice, but second time it went fine. I’ll show pics when I finish a tiny bit of soldering (home and turbo, thanks for all the info I have recvd) and installing the seimitsu buttons/sanwa stick. Cheers and thank you!

ConCombo · February 15, 2016, 2:31am

[quote=“ConCombo, post:583, topic:177444”]

[quote=“Vicko, post:581, topic:177444”]

you have to press home for it to work on those consoles i think

Or is it even possible to be done solderless? Thanks again

Jim_gun · February 15, 2016, 3:26am

Hey guys, got the board working in my stick

Is it necessary to update the firmware if i’m just using on ps4?

aszyd · February 15, 2016, 3:49am

eightbitminiboss · February 15, 2016, 4:13am

Yes because at some point a new firmware will be released from Sony that may or may not bring back the 8-minute timeout. It’s worth keeping the board up to date as well.

Vicko · February 15, 2016, 4:58am

[quote=“ConCombo, post:588, topic:177444”]

[quote=“ConCombo, post:583, topic:177444”]

You need to solder at least 2 wires, been described in this thread already.

Crimson_Kino:

Darksakul:

Crimson_Kino:

I just bought this board and it should be in this week. My setup is the Killer Instinct TE2 with the crossbone and PS360+. I’m hoping I can swap the PS360+ with the UFB with no problems. Is this possible without touching the crossbone and the Mad Catz PCB?

I don’t see why not, but I also don’t see the reason to keep the original Mad Catz Board and the Crossbone as the UFB does PS3, PS4, Xbox 360 and Xbox One and the UFB board autoselects.
It’s just less junk in the stick.

You don’t have the Killer Instinct TE2 with the built in LED lights inside do you?

yeah, it has the LED. I don’t want to do a lot of work which is why I would just like to swap. I was trying to mod the Razer Atrox and that stick was already enough work. Will the LED lights make it harder?

You can just tie in the LEDs by soldering the middle wire to the 3.3v, and figuring out 5v and gnd and throwing those in the screw terminals. You won’t have the button to turn them off/on, so you’ll have to unplug unless you get fancy.

truendymion · February 15, 2016, 5:24am

Hey guys I’m going to try and swap out a PCB for the first time and I’m a total noob so I decided to do some research. Is the UFB pretty easy to install on a Atrox X1? Just plug and play right?

BolSadguy · February 15, 2016, 5:39am

You’ll need to cut or desolder the USB wires going to the stock PCB if you plan to keep the stock cable and jack. There are 5 wires; 4 are USB standard, the yellow one goes to GND. At that point it’s.easy to just screw things in.

Crimson_Kino · February 15, 2016, 6:12am

Thank you, I never used the LED when I was using the PS360+, but I left it all in there for Xbox One mode of my stick. The only problem I hope I don’t have is that it will detect when I swap the PCBs. I’ll update as soon as I can for others that would like to know.

DonkeyBlonkey · February 15, 2016, 6:39am

Still can’t get the Player LEDs to light up in the Madcatz V.S. Turbo PCB. Any solutions?

Followed this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/rgpyxBg.gif

Darksakul · February 15, 2016, 6:55am

I believe the LEDs for the player LEDs are set up as Common cathode and not common anode.
Meaning the LEDs share a voltage source and have separate grounds, thats how the TE PCB, PS360 and UFB PCB is set up.
I am thinking The VCC of the Player LEDs don’t go to the USB VCC, it need to go to a different point entirely.
Disregard, I am wrong

eightbitminiboss · February 15, 2016, 6:57am

They’re wired up to the right spots. I’d imagine there may not be a lot of voltage getting there. Even on my TE Round 2 the LEDs are dim. Could be the resistors in the line too before getting to the LEDs.

truendymion · February 15, 2016, 7:54am

I’d like to keep the stock cable but I don’t have tools for soldering/cutting wires. Is there another option?

BolSadguy · February 15, 2016, 8:02am

You can’t completely avoid it. At the bare minimum you’ll need to cut and strip wires.

You can do this with a pair of scissors and an exacto knife. You’ll also need 4 scotch locks and a regular printer cable.

Plug the B end of the printer cable into the UF board and then cut the rest of.the cable off at whatever length you deem necessary. Remove the insulation of the cable with the scissors to reveal the 4 standard USB wires. Strip each wire with the exacto knife to expose the conductors. Next cut the 5 usb wires off the Atrox PCB and strip each of them the same way. Connect the yellow wire from the Atrox to any ground on the UFB. Take the remaining 4 wires and match their colors to those in the printer cable and use the scotch locks to connect them.