Whose ready to completely trick out their Hori VLX with the Brook UFB and keep the guts stock (minus the PCB)? I know I am! I’ve been toiling away for the past couple weeks getting this ready and tested. Today, I can confirm victory! This mod will literally take 10 minutes and ANYONE can do it. Price is TBD, I need to figure out some minor cost things, but Arcade Shock and I are going full steam ahead on it and hope to have a completely solder-less kit for you guys!
It will come with everything you need, requires NO cutting of any stock cables. No changing of any stock connectors.
Simply unplug everything from the main Hori Board, fit the helper down into the same spot. Plug the cables into it. And fit the Brook Board down onto it. Voila, your VLX now works on 4 systems with auto-detection.
PS/SHARE/L3/R3 all work!
DP/LS switch works. No RS support because of the way the Brook board works and the way the stock Hori Aux PCB is setup.
No turbo support. The Hori uses a switch where the Brook is looking for a momentary push switch.
No Player LED support. The Hori setup is incompatible with the UFB without cutting traces and mucking up the stick.
I just got around to actually installing my board in a TE2. I wanted to do a quick sanity check after wiring just my 8 main buttons and stick, but I’m getting nothing at all on a PS3 or Xbox One. Do those consoles need to detect a home button or something for a controller to function at all, or is this confirmation that I messed up somewhere?
I just bought this board and it should be in this week. My setup is the Killer Instinct TE2 with the crossbone and PS360+. I’m hoping I can swap the PS360+ with the UFB with no problems. Is this possible without touching the crossbone and the Mad Catz PCB?
EDIT: I assume I should be able to because the crossbone is common ground, right?
I don’t see why not, but I also don’t see the reason to keep the original Mad Catz Board and the Crossbone as the UFB does PS3, PS4, Xbox 360 and Xbox One and the UFB board autoselects.
It’s just less junk in the stick.
You don’t have the Killer Instinct TE2 with the built in LED lights inside do you?
Hi, everyone and thanks in advance for any help on this.
So I have (had) a collectors edition original TE for PS3
I started work on changing over the to the ufb i haven’t included any of the Turbo panel as I didn’t think I need it or the ls/dp/rs part is that a problem? Also I have no home button atm but was gonna fit it at a later stage as I just want to use it in a game and can turn the console etc other ways anyway
So I plugged the stick into both my ps4 and Xbox one and not a sign of life, I’m using the usb type a to b to the board instead of the solder(so ignore the soldered on the board part as its changed) so basically I’m wondering if anyone had a rough idea where I’ve gone wrong or what steps I need to take to adjust for it to work? Everything else in the pic is unchanged as of now but i have absolutely nothing which puzzles me no buttons or recognition to consoles.
Also another question is in regards to the grounding from the 2k I think it’s a mistake I made reading the schematic (long working day my excuse) I gnd it to the board and didn’t link it with the rest? Mistake one I believe, so yeah it’s my first time doing this I’ll take the growing pains any nudges in the right direction would be great
