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Tape and or hot glue it anywhere.
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22 AWG is fine. Though if the screw terminals are anything like those on a PS360, you’ll need to have a bit more wire exposed from the insulation and then loop it to give the screw enough surface area to keep the wire inside the terminal.
5mm LED, got it. i’ll try to test them to see if i fried them. i know how to take the cover off of the secondary board on the TE2 and unscrew it so i can take a look. i tried wiring things to the solder joints underneath the console switch which didn’t work as i expected, but that’s where the LEDs are as well. we shall see what more i find out about this.
i’m still very happy about the board, so easy to install and wire, auto detect, and brook is great about firmware updates.
If you want a cleaner fit/look, then get a dremel tool and dremel some of the plastic screw poles off (If you’re comfortable with a dremel and removing some plastic off the internals of your stick) Granted a lot of modders I spoked to agreed that MadCatz goes overboard with the amount of screws required to screw the stick’s body in place (I remember K_Joe asking me and making a big emphasis on the question because people freaked out that he was going to drill some stuff off the stick)
My Fightstick Pro has 12 screws holding it together under the bottom metal plate. 12. I’m most likely going to cut off one of the posts so the PCB will fit somewhere nicely.
Not finished yet, because I bought the wrong usb a to b adapter. But its a great beginning! I have seen videos of how to wire the home button to a Cthulu for a TE stick…but this is an SE…if anyone has any tips to help me make that home button functional, would appreciate it. Otherwise, thank you to this whole forum because it has provided many great thoughts!
Imgur link: http://imgur.com/a/JzHCE
Fixed, thanks DonkeyBlonkey.
Still can’t open it.
You could drag it onto your desktop (Save it) then upload it onto imgur and provide the imgur link.
fyi you have your wires wrong for the joystick harness, you have the ground plugged into the vcc instead of gnd :s
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One screw is enough, i usually break off tabs and shit to get it to fit. Or ziptie harnesses.
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Remove the pins from your connector and hot glue in place. Make sure the pins don’t touch each other.
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You should have plenty of slack to relocate from the stock PCB.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1570228/turbo%20panel.PNG
I didnt put them in the right place because didnt have the final usb cable anyway, ill fix it soon enough. Thanks.
I am aware of that, but later in the video he talks about how it has to be connected to the main pcb for power and a ground, and I’m not sure where those are. I can strip the main power cord (from original usb wire), and im assuming in that bunch of wires, one will be a power and another a ground. I have a friend who is good with this stuff, and he will probably figure it out, but sadly I’m not much guidance.
if you flip the board over, they are clearly labeled.
Also, you don’t need power, you can cut the traces going to the chip in the middle coming from those dots and use only ground.
Many thanks for this information! When you write, “cut the traces to the chip.” You mean like scratching off the green stuff? How does this affect the wiring? Thanks again for your thoughts, my guess is you have probably seen this problem too many times!
You’re bypassing the stock pcb for everything but those 2 buttons, right? You don’t need anything else basically. And yes, you cut the green lines from the gold spots going to the chip.
so i had a few questions about this board
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the reason I haven’t dropped the ps360+ like a bad habit yet, is simply due to the fact that it supports the dreamcast, I see that this board is updateable, is there a chance that we’ll see support for other consoles that arent listed here yet? edited: noticed that this is a usb only board, thus already answering this question.
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On the ps360 you can force LS DP RS with button short cuts, I see that you can solder a switch to points on the board, but is there a button shortcut on this as well?
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same question regarding forcing systems, like if i wanted to force 360 mode on PC
@TheZombieDeviant
2. Please use SP3T switch or 4pin header to select (LS/DP/RS), like to two pieces pictures
- Brook already added the forced mode to select all consoles (1P=PS3/2P=PS4/3P=360/4P=XBOX One). Go to Brook official website to download.
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/Universal%20Fighting%20Board/
Can some one please help me with my setup
So I’ve connected the brook ufb (already updated) with an imp v2 and an mc Cthulhu with the rj45 and so far everything worked (PS3/PS4/Xbox360) except the Xbox one. When the Xbox one is connected directly to the brook it works but when it’s through the rj45 it doesn’t recognize it but the brook led lights up. So far I followed the steps from the imp v2 manual and some pictures from this thread. Is there something I’m doing wrong or it just won’t work.
This is what I did/ followed
i lied, my win7 ultimate desktop in particular still crashes when i plug in the UFB. i think i’ll just end up upgrading to win10 soon.
i had a chance to play games on other people’s win7 laptops and desktops, and it was fine as long as i forced one console mode. i think xb1 worked best when the driver was available on the computer. one desktop worked with ps3, probably because the driver existed too, but usually ps3 sticks aren’t friendly with pc’s.
Im about to purchase this board soon. But I also did a pad hack. Am i going to be missing something other then xbox1 support. I dont need it for other systems as I have them already.
Unless its for legacy, gut out your padhack and put it on another stick/sell it to someone/donate it to the less fortunate. the UFB does it all so don’t leave yourself open to things which may cause unnecessary issues.