Brook Universal Fighting Board Thread

[GOGO.Zippy]

@TehRoger @Chish
Brook modified on Cleaner outputting , please update to view…
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/Universal%20Fighting%20Board/

L+R = neutral
U+D = Up
U+D+R+L = Up

the new firmware still has a problem:
U+D+L = U
U+D+R = R

this is incorrect. Here is how it should be:

U+D+L = U+L
U+D+R = U+R

Thats not good! FIX FIX FIX pls =)

@rumble1212 @oDHAOSo @Noryia
Two directions are incorrect, are other fine??
U+D+L = U
U+D+R = R

Zippy, what they are saying is

U+D+L = U + L This is OK and what they expect.
U+D+R = U + R This is OK and what they expect.

Its how they use their all button controllers. They can be hitting all of the buttons at the same time as they roll their hands around to execute moves.

@“Jasen Hicks”

I’m thank to all best experience . We don’t have more info on the SOCD Cleaner outputting.
We will fix a bit after Chinese New Year Holiday…

[Vicko]

take your red and black wire from the madcatz logo, red to p1, black to gnd

i see. i will try this. how do i wire the P1 ~ P4 LEDs from brook board to TE2 then? i guess P1 will be taken @_@

EDIT: actually Vicko, do you mean the VCC joint next to P1?

Sorry, red to VCC, black to p1

[Noryia]

I’m thank to all best experience . We don’t have more info on the SOCD Cleaner outputting.
We will fix a bit after Chinese New Year Holiday…

I’ll follow up in the Fight board thread but someone with a wired up UFB should check which modes are having the issue. I see this issue on the Fight Board only in PC mode, in PS3/4 U+D+L = U+L but I do not see that in PC mode.

U = U (Good)
D = D (Good)
R = R (Good)
L = L (Good)

U+D = U (Good)
U+R = UR (Good)
U+L = UL (Good)
D+R = DR (Good)
D+L = DL (Good)

U+D+R = R (Bad) Should be UR
U+D+L = L (Bad) Should be UL
U+D+R+L = U (Good)

Am I missing any directions?

[TehRoger]

I’m thank to all best experience . We don’t have more info on the SOCD Cleaner outputting.
We will fix a bit after Chinese New Year Holiday…

I’ll follow up in the Fight board thread but someone with a wired up UFB should check which modes are having the issue. I see this issue on the Fight Board only in PC mode, in PS3/4 U+D+L = U+L but I do not see that in PC mode.

U = U (Good)
D = D (Good)
R = R (Good)
L = L (Good)

U+D = U (Good)
U+R = UR (Good)
U+L = UL (Good)
D+R = DR (Good)
D+L = DL (Good)

U+D+R = R (Bad) Should be UR
U+D+L = L (Bad) Should be UL
U+D+R+L = U (Good)

Am I missing any directions?

I should have checked it on other systems, but I tried it on PC both without forcing a mode and with forcing 360 mode and it was happening in both. I did try as many direction combinations as I could, and U+D+R and U+D+L were the only issues that I found.

[Noryia]

@TehRoger No worries, I had only checked the U+D+R/L on the PS3/PS4 when helping @GOGO.Zippy with the SOCD and thought it was good.

[GOGO.Zippy]

@TehRoger No worries, I had only checked the U+D+R/L on the PS3/PS4 when helping @GOGO.Zippy with the SOCD and thought it was good.

@Noryia @TehRoger
Ok…tks

[pApArOACh]

Does the player indicator work only for the ps3/4 side or does it indicate on xbox 360/one side as well?

[ChaoticMonk]

Does the player indicator work only for the ps3/4 side or does it indicate on xbox 360/one side as well?

All sides as long as the system supports player indicators (correct me if I’m wrong but I’m almost certain all 4 of these do)

[pApArOACh]

Does the player indicator work only for the ps3/4 side or does it indicate on xbox 360/one side as well?

All sides as long as the system supports player indicators (correct me if I’m wrong but I’m almost certain all 4 of these do)

I know PS3/PS4/XBox360 does but I haven’t seen on xbox one. I only see 1 white led on every controller and stick. No idea about this one.

[DJ_Divine]

take your red and black wire from the madcatz logo, red to p1, black to gnd

i see. i will try this. how do i wire the P1 ~ P4 LEDs from brook board to TE2 then? i guess P1 will be taken @_@

EDIT: actually Vicko, do you mean the VCC joint next to P1?

Sorry, red to VCC, black to p1

Hey Vicko, just tried this and no go. Do you think I could’ve fried my LEDs already?

Also ran into an issue on PC – connecting the board crashes my computer. Leaving it connected and starting up the computer ends up in BSOD before windows boots. I have Win7 Ultimate and I tried installing the XB1 controller driver to no avail.

[DonkeyBlonkey]

Running a Remora LED Board with ArcEye 3s on a Madcatz 360 V.S. Stick

Created a Button Map and was wondering if it can be checked.

Spoiler

http://i.imgur.com/rgpyxBg.gif

@DonkeyBlonkey

I don’t know those LSTICK/RSTICK connected with a switch (LS/DP/RS) on TE board so that I modified your wires to connect TE Board.
The USB power outputs 5.0V from USB cable. like J6-1’s [ V ] pin mark.
The VCC power outputs 3.3V from a regular on UFB, Like J3/J5’s [ VCC ] pin mark

But I guess Madcarz TB Board should connect wires to UFB, as below link…

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_xxppvd7h24cm03WTU5VUlEUU0

[/quote]

Running a Remora LED Board with ArcEye 3s on a Madcatz 360 V.S. Stick

Created a Button Map and was wondering if it can be checked.

Spoiler

http://i.imgur.com/rgpyxBg.gif

@DonkeyBlonkey

I don’t know those LSTICK/RSTICK connected with a switch (LS/DP/RS) on TE board so that I modified your wires to connect TE Board.
The USB power outputs 5.0V from USB cable. like J6-1’s [ V ] pin mark.
The VCC power outputs 3.3V from a regular on UFB, Like J3/J5’s [ VCC ] pin mark

But I guess Madcarz TB Board should connect wires to UFB, as below link…

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_xxppvd7h24cm03WTU5VUlEUU0

[/quote]

Okay so should I remove the yellow wires going to the RS and LS and just use your black wires you drew out instead?

[GOGO.Zippy]

Running a Remora LED Board with ArcEye 3s on a Madcatz 360 V.S. Stick

Created a Button Map and was wondering if it can be checked.

Spoiler

http://i.imgur.com/rgpyxBg.gif

@DonkeyBlonkey

I don’t know those LSTICK/RSTICK connected with a switch (LS/DP/RS) on TE board so that I modified your wires to connect TE Board.
The USB power outputs 5.0V from USB cable. like J6-1’s [ V ] pin mark.
The VCC power outputs 3.3V from a regular on UFB, Like J3/J5’s [ VCC ] pin mark

But I guess Madcarz TB Board should connect wires to UFB, as below link…

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_xxppvd7h24cm03WTU5VUlEUU0

Running a Remora LED Board with ArcEye 3s on a Madcatz 360 V.S. Stick

Created a Button Map and was wondering if it can be checked.

Spoiler

http://i.imgur.com/rgpyxBg.gif

@DonkeyBlonkey

I don’t know those LSTICK/RSTICK connected with a switch (LS/DP/RS) on TE board so that I modified your wires to connect TE Board.
The USB power outputs 5.0V from USB cable. like J6-1’s [ V ] pin mark.
The VCC power outputs 3.3V from a regular on UFB, Like J3/J5’s [ VCC ] pin mark

But I guess Madcarz TB Board should connect wires to UFB, as below link…

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_xxppvd7h24cm03WTU5VUlEUU0

[/quote]

Okay so should I remove the yellow wires going to the RS and LS and just use your black wires you drew out instead?
[/quote]

@DonkeyBlonkey
Please try and Let me know results…

[ChaoticMonk]

take your red and black wire from the madcatz logo, red to p1, black to gnd

i see. i will try this. how do i wire the P1 ~ P4 LEDs from brook board to TE2 then? i guess P1 will be taken @_@

EDIT: actually Vicko, do you mean the VCC joint next to P1?

Sorry, red to VCC, black to p1

Hey Vicko, just tried this and no go. Do you think I could’ve fried my LEDs already?

Its possible since you originally connected the led without any resistor. You could test it with a couple batteries+resistor

[DJ_Divine]

take your red and black wire from the madcatz logo, red to p1, black to gnd

i see. i will try this. how do i wire the P1 ~ P4 LEDs from brook board to TE2 then? i guess P1 will be taken @_@

EDIT: actually Vicko, do you mean the VCC joint next to P1?

Sorry, red to VCC, black to p1

Hey Vicko, just tried this and no go. Do you think I could’ve fried my LEDs already?

Its possible since you originally connected the led without any resistor. You could test it with a couple batteries+resistor

does that mean the original TE2 pcb had resistors where the 2-pin header is, for the red + black wire i’m talking about? and the brook board doesn’t? sorry, still pretty new to this stuff.

i’d really like to wire my player LEDs and power LED, any help would be appreciated. if my LEDs are dead, what would i need to replace them with? these are for PS3/PS4 TE2.

still not sure what to do on PC – i’m afraid i’ll crash other people’s computers when i wanna play SFV ;_;

[gehena]

Hi, I’m new here but I’ve been reading post here for a long time but I have and issue. I tried installing the universal brook fight board with an MC Cthulhu/impv2/neutrik rj45 and so far everything worked except the Xbox one. Once I plug it in it just doesn’t recognize it. Is there auto detection late or is it the voltage

[DJ_Divine]

i have an update – i used my work’s win10 box to update the firmware on my brook universal board.

now on win7, it just becomes an unidentified device – my guess is i can use forced mode for xbox 360. i’ll try this and let everyone know if that’s a solution.

in the meantime, if anyone knows about TE2 LEDs (how to wire P1~P4 and power, as well as what type of LEDs they are so i can potentially replace them) please please let me know.

[eightbitminiboss]

i have an update – i used my work’s win10 box to update the firmware on my brook universal board.

now on win7, it just becomes an unidentified device – my guess is i can use forced mode for xbox 360. i’ll try this and let everyone know if that’s a solution.

in the meantime, if anyone knows about TE2 LEDs (how to wire P1~P4 and power, as well as what type of LEDs they are so i can potentially replace them) please please let me know.

Forced 360 mode should work on 7. But you definitely need the correct Xbox One drivers to use it on Win7.

[DonkeyBlonkey]

@DonkeyBlonkey
Please try and Let me know results…

Wait what? All I want is to get the UFB functional for my stick and it sounds like you’re having me experiment following your suggested diagram?

I already asked Vicko beforehand via PMs and eightbitminiboss confirmed the way I had it mapped out was the way he had his (Working fine too)

So the answer is, no, I’m afraid I won’t be able to let you know on the results.

[ChaoticMonk]

in the meantime, if anyone knows about TE2 LEDs (how to wire P1~P4 and power, as well as what type of LEDs they are so i can potentially replace them) please please let me know.

You can replace it with a 5mm LED but not sure how you get in there to replace it.
I haven’t worked on a PS TE2 so not sure about player LEDs, sorry.

[wocK]

Hello,

My fight board arrived and I am having some issues.

1. I am mounting it in a fightstick pro and the pcb is too large to go where the existing pcb was so I wonder where would the best place to put it? I am thinking somewhere with double sided tape?

2. I got the option with the extra pins and to run connections from the turbo panel so somehow need to change a PH 6 pin to a 5 pin for the p1 to p4 and the VCC. So that’s a 5 head connector and a solitary wire for the shared ground for the turbo panel. Is there single connectors I can buy to do them individually? I will need to link the Turbo key as well from the Turbo panel to the Touch pad and I think a single connector would be needed.

3. I was going to use the madcatz button harness but I am not sure the wires will be able to stretch so I guess I will need to get some more… Is 22 or 24 AWG the best to get? I will maybe just order an earth daisy chain to keep it tidy.

Thanks