Please update latest firmware , everything is fine.
U can use forced mode to select …
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/Universal%20Fighting%20Board/
@TehRoger @Chish
Brook modified on Cleaner outputting , please update to view…
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/Universal%20Fighting%20Board/
L+R = neutral
U+D = Up
U+D+R+L = Up
@TehRoger @Chish
Brook modified on Cleaner outputting , please update to view…
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/Universal%20Fighting%20Board/L+R = neutral
U+D = Up
U+D+R+L = Up
the new firmware still has a problem:
U+D+L = U
U+D+R = R
this is incorrect. Here is how it should be:
U+D+L = U+L
U+D+R = U+R
As you mentioned, there is no problem with U+D+R+L, but that is not what I am complaining about.
Can anyone verify that when none of the DP/LS/RS connections are made, it defaults to DP? This would be the logical assumption but just want to be sure.
@drumist @eightbitminiboss @DonkeyBlonkey
(1)No use SP3T switch, UFB defaults to DP.
(2)I draw a ST3T switch to connect with UFB, please look this pic in link
drumist:Can anyone verify that when none of the DP/LS/RS connections are made, it defaults to DP? This would be the logical assumption but just want to be sure.
@drumist @eightbitminiboss @DonkeyBlonkey
(1)No use SP3T switch, UFB defaults to DP.
(2)I draw a ST3T switch to connect with UFB, please look this pic in link
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9o4uyzqsph5ned7/Connect%20Wired.jpg?dl=0
Meaning I should use the pins on the DP/LS/RS Switch and solder from there instead of the RS and LS on the madcatz Turbo Panel?
GOGO.Zippy: drumist:Can anyone verify that when none of the DP/LS/RS connections are made, it defaults to DP? This would be the logical assumption but just want to be sure.
@drumist @eightbitminiboss @DonkeyBlonkey
(1)No use SP3T switch, UFB defaults to DP.
(2)I draw a ST3T switch to connect with UFB, please look this pic in link
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9o4uyzqsph5ned7/Connect%20Wired.jpg?dl=0Meaning I should use the pins on the DP/LS/RS Switch and solder from there instead of the RS and LS on the madcatz Turbo Panel?
They way you have it marked out on your schematic is how I connected mine in my 360 TE and it works as intended.
Edit: I confirmed this through PC in joystick properties as I don’t know many console games that differentiate it on input display.
just like in my PMs
[/quote]
Running a Remora LED Board with ArcEye 3s on a Madcatz 360 V.S. Stick
Created a Button Map and was wondering if it can be checked.
Spoiler
I don’t know those LSTICK/RSTICK connected with a switch (LS/DP/RS) on TE board so that I modified your wires to connect TE Board.
The USB power outputs 5.0V from USB cable. like J6-1’s [ V ] & J3’s { VCC ] pin mark.
The VCC power outputs 3.3V from a regular on UFB, Like J8/J5’s [ VCC ] pin markBut I guess Madcarz TB Board should connect wires to UFB, as below link…
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_xxppvd7h24cm03WTU5VUlEUU0
GOGO.Zippy:@TehRoger @Chish
Brook modified on Cleaner outputting , please update to view…
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/Universal%20Fighting%20Board/L+R = neutral
U+D = Up
U+D+R+L = Upthe new firmware still has a problem:
U+D+L = U
U+D+R = Rthis is incorrect. Here is how it should be:
U+D+L = U+L
U+D+R = U+R
Thats not good! FIX FIX FIX pls =)
hey guys, any help would be appreciated. have a few questions. i put in the brook universal board on my PS3/PS4 TE2.
-
i wired the power LED (madcatz logo), which is the black and red wires hanging out from the top left side of the stick, joined by a 2-pin connector. i cut the 2-pin connector off, stripped and crimped the ends, and put the red one in VCC, black one in GND of universal board (since i used PAS 20-pin harness, all of the screw terminals were open). power LED still doesn’t work though. should i be trying a different spot on the brook universal board to wire these?
-
how can i wire the player LEDs? i heard from somewhere that the TE2 secondary board’s P1 P2 P3 P4 LED pinouts are for anode so i can’t wire the brook universal board joints directly to those.
-
i wired L3 and R3, then GND is going to one of the GND screw terminals. is this ok? somewhat related to #1 i guess.
GOGO.Zippy:@TehRoger @Chish
Brook modified on Cleaner outputting , please update to view…
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/Universal%20Fighting%20Board/L+R = neutral
U+D = Up
U+D+R+L = Upthe new firmware still has a problem:
U+D+L = U
U+D+R = Rthis is incorrect. Here is how it should be:
U+D+L = U+L
U+D+R = U+RAs you mentioned, there is no problem with U+D+R+L, but that is not what I am complaining about.
This is a real issue for hitbox users. Please fix ASAP
GOGO.Zippy:@TehRoger @Chish
Brook modified on Cleaner outputting , please update to view…
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/Universal%20Fighting%20Board/L+R = neutral
U+D = Up
U+D+R+L = Upthe new firmware still has a problem:
U+D+L = U
U+D+R = Rthis is incorrect. Here is how it should be:
U+D+L = U+L
U+D+R = U+RAs you mentioned, there is no problem with U+D+R+L, but that is not what I am complaining about.
@GOGO.Zippy I can confirm that I have the same issues as @Chish with the ‘fight board’ PCB in windows with the updated firmware that you had sent me.
hey guys, any help would be appreciated. have a few questions. i put in the brook universal board on my PS3/PS4 TE2.
i wired the power LED (madcatz logo), which is the black and red wires hanging out from the top left side of the stick, joined by a 2-pin connector. i cut the 2-pin connector off, stripped and crimped the ends, and put the red one in VCC, black one in GND of universal board (since i used PAS 20-pin harness, all of the screw terminals were open). power LED still doesn’t work though. should i be trying a different spot on the brook universal board to wire these?
how can i wire the player LEDs? i heard from somewhere that the TE2 secondary board’s P1 P2 P3 P4 LED pinouts are for anode so i can’t wire the brook universal board joints directly to those.
i wired L3 and R3, then GND is going to one of the GND screw terminals. is this ok? somewhat related to #1 i guess.
- Connect it to P1 LED, that’s how I did mine.
- Not sure
- Yes, any gnd is fine.
DJ_Divine:hey guys, any help would be appreciated. have a few questions. i put in the brook universal board on my PS3/PS4 TE2.
i wired the power LED (madcatz logo), which is the black and red wires hanging out from the top left side of the stick, joined by a 2-pin connector. i cut the 2-pin connector off, stripped and crimped the ends, and put the red one in VCC, black one in GND of universal board (since i used PAS 20-pin harness, all of the screw terminals were open). power LED still doesn’t work though. should i be trying a different spot on the brook universal board to wire these?
how can i wire the player LEDs? i heard from somewhere that the TE2 secondary board’s P1 P2 P3 P4 LED pinouts are for anode so i can’t wire the brook universal board joints directly to those.
i wired L3 and R3, then GND is going to one of the GND screw terminals. is this ok? somewhat related to #1 i guess.
- Connect it to P1 LED, that’s how I did mine.
- Not sure
- Yes, any gnd is fine.
interesting – P1 LED will light up the madcatz logo? do you mean the red VCC wire should go to P1 LED of brook board? or the TE2 secondary board’s P1 LED pinout to be wired to P1 LED of brook board?
take your red and black wire from the madcatz logo, red to p1, black to gnd
ChaoticMonk: RedTag14:This board looks awesome! I’d love to put it inside a HORI Fighting Edge. Would this be able to use the touch panel and/or the LED trim?
LEDs yes, start/select on touch panel, yes. Rest of the touchpanel functions (tournament lock, button re-assignments, etc.) no, only the Hori PCB can do it.
Does anything special need to be done in this regard? I don’t care about losing my remap/lock functionality – as long as start and stop work, I have a brooks I want to throw in my fighting edge
Yes, you need to connect power and gnd for the touch panel leds and then connect start/select as normal. I don’t remember if start/select work without power to the touchpanel.
You should go to the [Hori FE thread](HORI Fighting EDGE as it has more info and I think you deviating from UFB at this point
I will caveat this with The** XBOX ONE drivers were already installed on the machine** and we used a USB 2.0 port.
That has been my experience as well. If drivers are already installed then the update works flawlessly on win10
take your red and black wire from the madcatz logo, red to p1, black to gnd
i see. i will try this. how do i wire the P1 ~ P4 LEDs from brook board to TE2 then? i guess P1 will be taken @_@
EDIT: actually Vicko, do you mean the VCC joint next to P1?
Chish: GOGO.Zippy:@TehRoger @Chish
Brook modified on Cleaner outputting , please update to view…
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/Universal%20Fighting%20Board/L+R = neutral
U+D = Up
U+D+R+L = Upthe new firmware still has a problem:
U+D+L = U
U+D+R = Rthis is incorrect. Here is how it should be:
U+D+L = U+L
U+D+R = U+RThats not good! FIX FIX FIX pls =)
@rumble1212 @oDHAOSo @Noryia
Two directions are incorrect, are other fine??
U+D+L = U
U+D+R = R
rumble1212: Chish: GOGO.Zippy:@TehRoger @Chish
Brook modified on Cleaner outputting , please update to view…
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/Universal%20Fighting%20Board/L+R = neutral
U+D = Up
U+D+R+L = Upthe new firmware still has a problem:
U+D+L = U
U+D+R = Rthis is incorrect. Here is how it should be:
U+D+L = U+L
U+D+R = U+RThats not good! FIX FIX FIX pls =)
@rumble1212 @oDHAOSo @Noryia
Two directions are incorrect, are other fine??
U+D+L = U
U+D+R = R
Zippy, what they are saying is
U+D+L = U + L This is OK and what they expect.
U+D+R = U + R This is OK and what they expect.
Its how they use their all button controllers. They can be hitting all of the buttons at the same time as they roll their hands around to execute moves.