Brook Universal Fighting Board Thread

Iā€™ll most likely solder. Iā€™m not sure what the pin outs need soldering on the Brook Pcb.

Ok, thanks. I didnā€™t know if I was missing some easy way to screw it into the body of th stick :slight_smile:

There are through holes near the USB jack labeled J6-1.
Ground (Black) -> RJ45 Pin 1
Data- (White) -> RJ-45 Pin 5
Data+ (Green) -> RJ-45 Pin 6
VCC (Red) -> RJ-45 Pin 8
If you have a USB A cable handy, plug in one end, crimp an RJ45 jack on the other according to that pinout.

Can anyone verify that when none of the DP/LS/RS connections are made, it defaults to DP? This would be the logical assumption but just want to be sure.

Yes, zippy confirmed it in this very thread earlier.

Thanks, I read through the whole thread but must have skipped over it.

Running a Remora LED Board with ArcEye 3s on a Madcatz 360 V.S. Stick

Created a Button Map and was wondering if it can be checked.

Spoiler

http://i.imgur.com/rgpyxBg.gif

I could also use a ethernet cable too for soldering right? Itā€™s pins 3-6 for the cable for a cat 5 cable.

@DonkeyBlonkey
I think evey wires are fine except keymap switch should have a bit. Is it possible to provide a circuit about it?

@DonkeyBlonkey - Your USBVCC is connected to the wrong spot on the BROOK board. Connect it to the V on J6-1. Where you have it connected on the BROOK is only +3V, USBVCC is +5V. Not sure what other processing/components are on that board from MadCatz that may not like 3V.

Everything else looks pretty good. You do have a few extra ground wires connected. Iā€™m not 100% sure but the MADCATZ PCBs and the Remora should be common ground so you only need one hooked up between each of them.

Finally, The way the the BROOK handles the Player LEDs it relies on the GND part of the LED being controlled at the PCB vs. the POWER part. So it goes like this:

+3V (VCC on J5) ===> LED ===> P1/2/3/4 (ON J5) ===> RESISTOR ===> MCU

I know on the Hori panels the LEDs are actually controlled like this:

MCU ==> RESISTOR ==> LED ==> GROUND

If you can get a close up of the LEDs on the board that would help make sure itā€™s going to work with the Brook properly.

Tried running firmware update, computer crashed during the ā€œverifyā€ step in the same fashion it does when I normally plug it into my PC

When I try to run the firmware update again, it doesnā€™t detect my controller anymore, so the ā€œupdateā€ button does not appear.

I can force it to load into ps3 ps4 and 360 mode fine on PC, when I force to XB1 I get these errors still:
http://i.imgur.com/Rq495ev.png

If I plug it in and force no mode, computer instantly freezes like it did previously.

Windows 7

If you have existing RJ45 USB console cables following the MCC pinout, you probably want to connect from Brook board to Neutrik jack with the same pinout so you can reuse them.

do you have xb1 drivers?

Since the firmware update my stick now works fine on Windows 10. However the SOCD cleaner is now behaving incorrectly:

how it works right now:
up+down = up
up+down+left = left

how it should work:
up+down = up
up+down+left = up+left

Came to ask if anyone else was experiencing this. Although in my case itā€™s Up+Down+Left=Up and Up+Down+Right=Right.

ArcadeShock and I sat down with the Brook UFB and Windows 10 today to sort through it. I think we figured out a good way to make it all work properly. I will caveat this with The** XBOX ONE drivers were already installed on the machine** and we used a USB 2.0 port. My recommendations:

  1. Plug an original XBOne controller in and let windows install the drivers.
  2. Open JOY.CPL and verify it works.
  3. Unplug the XBOne Controller. You donā€™t need it any more. Close JOY.CPL
  4. Download the FW updater from http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/
  5. Open the Update Software.
  6. Press HOME and SELECT on your stick (with the board installed)
  7. Plug the stick into the PC.
  8. The Brook FW Updater will automatically sense the board is ready for the update and ask you to update it.
  9. Allow it to update, it will verify, and give you a SUCCESS GREEN CHECK MARK
  10. Unplug and Plug the stick back in.
  11. Open JOY.CPL
  12. Verify Buttons all work. If you press home Windows 10 asks if you want to play a game or something, it wont actually register in JOY.CPL

After this was done, stick worked great with no disconnecting issues.

If I was installing the Brook UFB into a blank case and wanted to add player ledā€™s. What ledā€™s would I use and what would I use to mount them with, if I wanted it to look clean without using something like hot glue to secure them?

Does anything special need to be done in this regard? I donā€™t care about losing my remap/lock functionality ā€“ as long as start and stop work, I have a brooks I want to throw in my fighting edge

Okay, I just edited the mapping so that the USBVCC is connected to the J6-1ā€™s V.

Spoiler

http://i.imgur.com/GDe2Ccp.gif

As for the extra GND wires, from what youā€™re telling me is itā€™s not a bad thing but itā€™s not necessary. Just wanted to play it safe.

Also, if I were to remove the Solder off of the Screw in Connectors (I just want to solder my wires on there, so that it is more secure) would I just use some copper wick or a solder sucker and it should pop off? Or is it pretty secured on there?

Thanks in advance

hey guys new to the forum and i was wondering i got the board i did not hook it to anything i just plugged the usb 2.0 in and connect it to my computer (windows 10) i get the blue light but nothing else i have xbo drivers but it does not reconise the board at all it just lights blue is there something wrong with my board should it had came up as a controller ?