You misinterpreted my argument. 95% of the people are going to be able to find a place to hook up a TP Key by either adding one to their case or repurposing another key (turbo anyone?).
In your example, you lose SHARE function completely in PS4 mode. This may not be suitable for everyone. I know I want to have it available. So, to keep that available you’d need two firmwares, as I said.
FW1:
MODE | PS4 | PS3 | XB360
---------------------------------------
SELECT pin | TOUCHPAD | SELECT | BACK
TPKEY pin | SHARE | - | - (optional button in your case)
What I’m suggesting doesn’t eliminate the SHARE function in PS4 mode, It’s adding an alternate way to push SELECT in the PS3 and 360 modes to the unused TPKEY. If you have two buttons, one plugged into the SELECT pin and another plugged into the TPKEY pin, you still have access to share. It’ll force people like me who have only 1 button to choose between the two, AND not lose functionality when using other modes.
I don’t mind using an alternate version of the firmware, but what I’m suggesting doesn’t require it.
I’m having a problem with this board on my PC with Windows 10
First it would not stay connected. I read this thread and you all said to install the Xbox One controller drivers. Did that and it connects not but the RT and LT are registering as the same button. In game controller properties I’m missing the Z Rotation bar. All I have is Z Axis.
It worked fine on my friends PC.
I’ve tried different USB ports.
I’ve tried re-downloading and installing the driver from Microsoft.
Brook is working on it. Windows 10 is a SOB that has broken a lot of random stuff. I am going to be testing some beta firmware tonight on a fresh install of Windows 10 and report back to Brook. There seems to be an issue with fresh (first time uses) of the UFB in Windows 10 only. In Win7 I had 0 issues.
Trying to drill into the hitbox case to add anything new is a pain. @oDHAOSo solution is the best solution. Doesn’t require multiple firmware (nor macros) and it doesn’t make it confusing for people who still want to wire up start, select/share, home, and touchpad button.
I got my board wired up. Everything works fine except I cannot use the PS button to turn the console on. I can use my dual shock to turn the console on and then press the PS button to “activate” the stick. I can even hold the PS button down to turn off the console. Any advice to what I may have wired incorrectly? Thanks.
Adding onto what Vicko said, you can’t turn the console on by pressing the PS button on any USB peripherals because the console cuts power to the USB ports while its off. I believe its because of the bluetooth communication with the systen that the DS3 and 4 are able to turn the console on by pressing the PS button.
Ignorant post of the Day. Congratulations. You win nothing. We are all now more stupid for having even read that post. You are awarded no points and may God have mercy on your soul.
I didn’t say anything derogatory or curse the guy out. I just let him know it’s to rich for my blood. Are we not allowed to let the vendor know that? I’m not a full-time player, I was on the edge at $79.99. For me there is always that change that Sony bricks it for good.
Being modest here but let’s do some math… Ps360+ = $60 bucks + Ps4 FC4 Padhack = $30 + Xbox One Padhack = $40 + You or someone else’s time and energy quad-modding all of this together (name your price). I think that’s more than enough to justify the cost of this board. Also when has Brook or Zippy not come through for a firmware update patch…NEVER.
Yea I agree with the solution as well. It’s not really going to hurt anyone if TPKey can function as select/back in PS3 and X360 respectively. Just as long as it’s just a non-branching firmware update it wouldn’t cause much trouble. If this doesn’t get implemented tho, I’m gonna have to drill my Panzer OG when I get the PCB. .-.