Brook Universal Fighting Board Thread

[jopamo]

To be more specific, it’s was a PS3/PS4+ with sound board, not an UFB.

Interesting…
I actually don’t have one of those boards. I have only the older PS3/4 Fight Boards w/ breakouts and UFBs. I have not experienced any issues with those. Can you confirm on your side if the UFB also shows no issue for you? If so, perhaps it might be a power delivery quirky with the PS4+ Audio Boards…

[purbeast]

How do you boot it in PS3 or 360 mode? I tried holding X down (the equivalent of X on Xbox consoles) when I plugged it in once, and I did notice that it said “brooks 3” or something, versus when I plugged it in without holding anything it said “Brooks 4” or something. I just remember it had different numbers. However both times I had power issues.

My Pi3 is OC’d to 1.35GHz with the overvolt set to 6 but I’m not sure about the memory speed. I also don’t see the lightning bolt on screen when I’m having issues or anything.

1Punch = PS4
2P = PS3
3P = X360
4P = XONE
1Kick = WiiU poken

Hmmm okay then I definitely had it in PS4 mode since I was pressing the LP button, and whatever it tries to do by default when not holding anything down. I’m currently making an image of my SD card but later tonight I can test out PS3 and 360 mode, see if it makes any difference.

[jopamo]

It should at least recognize the stick in PS4 mode. I also use a wired DualShock 4 pad with no problem. The only reason why I purposely selected PS3 mode and Xbox 360 mode was due to the fact that those controllers have long-standing driver support in Recalbox and Retropie. PS4 pad support is only a more recent development…

By the way, what’s your overclock specs? Maybe power draw is too high. Here’s mine:
arm_freq=1300
gpu_freq=500
core_freq=500
sdram_freq=500
sdram_schmoo=0x02000020
over_voltage=2
sdram_over_voltage=2

[purbeast]

Yeah it could be the power consumption is too high. I don’t know it off the top of my head but I’m pretty sure over_voltage is set to 6. I also know arm_req is 1350 and the other 3 freq settings are 525 I believe. I don’t have sdram_schmoo and sdram_over_voltage set.

Also my PS4 wired DS4 controller works no problem.

[trinifella1]

Hey guys, quick question.

I’ve connected a couple multi-color changing LEDs to the player LED pins (J5), but they don’t change color. It remains on the first color: red. When I connect these LEDs to any 3v battery, it changes color automatically. The LEDs are rated Forward Voltage 3v, Direct Current 20 mA.

I own 3 UFBs as well (yes, greatest invention ever in the history of inventions… thank you Brook ) so I know it isn’t a problem with my board.

Any way to get these bad boys to change colour?

[Brook_Engineer]

Hey guys, quick question.

I’ve connected a couple multi-color changing LEDs to the player LED pins (J5), but they don’t change color. It remains on the first color: red. When I connect these LEDs to any 3v battery, it changes color automatically. The LEDs are rated Forward Voltage 3v, Direct Current 20 mA.

I own 3 UFBs as well (yes, greatest invention ever in the history of inventions… thank you Brook ) so I know it isn’t a problem with my board.

Any way to get these bad boys to change colour?

interesting…i should discuss with Zippy…

[Veysey]

Hi

I’ve tried looking around for some kind of solution for the past week but haven’t found anything useful. The board I have worked fine and one day stopped working (no update or anything and almost always play on PS4). The thing is, when I plug it in to the PC and hold Home+Select, it works fine (can update successfully/recognized as an HID compliant device) but, plugging it in as anything else or trying to manually force any other mode, it doesn’t work on PC or consoles. The board is past warranty so I’m on my own there.

I’ve been able to try on two Win 10 PCs, one Win 7 PC

PS4
Xbox One
PS3
Switch
WiiU

I was not able to try on the 360 (although that mode didn’t work on any of the PCs) or the original Xbox

I’ve tried all the suggestions I’ve come across (uninstalling from device manager/Xbox One controller drivers/updating the stick/uninstalling & reinstalling all drivers involved/checking solder joints, traces, and components for any signs of damage/nothing running ‘hot’ on the board/and all that good stuff) but haven’t got to any point where it does anything different.

If anyone has any advice on what to do to try and get it working or any tools I should look into that might be able to diagnose/direct me towards what the problem is (if there is one?) that would be appreciated. Thanks.

[trinifella1]

interesting…i should discuss with Zippy…

Thanks mate

[Brook_Engineer]

interesting…i should discuss with Zippy…

Thanks mate

which LED do you use? do you have more specific introduction information to the LED? or the specification to the LED?

[The_Real_Phoenix]

Hey guys, quick question.

I’ve connected a couple multi-color changing LEDs to the player LED pins (J5), but they don’t change color. It remains on the first color: red. When I connect these LEDs to any 3v battery, it changes color automatically. The LEDs are rated Forward Voltage 3v, Direct Current 20 mA.

I own 3 UFBs as well (yes, greatest invention ever in the history of inventions… thank you Brook ) so I know it isn’t a problem with my board.

Any way to get these bad boys to change colour?

Surely the guys from Brook will know better, but from what I saw, UFB is not constantly powering the LEDs, but more intermitadly, like “pulsating”.
I didn’t really saw it untli the shutter of my camera catched it:

If you check the LEDs on one of my video here: https://youtu.be/tcjrIMuJrbs?t=9m47s you’ll see the led is pulsating.

So this could set your leds constantly “reseting”, and always stays at the first color.

[trinifella1]

which LED do you use? do you have more specific introduction information to the LED? or the specification to the LED?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C19END2/ref=twister_B01CNY3FY8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I got some from a buddy who ordered a pack of them. Cheap, gorgeous.

Surely the guys from Brook will know better, but from what I saw, UFB is not constantly powering the LEDs, but more intermitadly, like “pulsating”.
I didn’t really saw it untli the shutter of my camera catched it:

If you check the LEDs on one of my video here: https://youtu.be/tcjrIMuJrbs?t=9m47s you’ll see the led is pulsating.

So this could set your leds constantly “reseting”, and always stays at the first color.

Wow I saw it. This makes alot of sense. We’ll see if the Brook guys can confirm. Thanks bro

[The_Real_Phoenix]

To be more specific, it’s was a PS3/PS4+ with sound board, not an UFB.

Interesting…
I actually don’t have one of those boards. I have only the older PS3/4 Fight Boards w/ breakouts and UFBs. I have not experienced any issues with those. Can you confirm on your side if the UFB also shows no issue for you? If so, perhaps it might be a power delivery quirky with the PS4+ Audio Boards…

Tested today. UFB works fine on Recalbox, but PS4+ audio doesn’t: not detected at all. It’s also possible Retropie/Recalbox doesn’t have driver for it.

[makstaks]

@Brook_Engineer @“GOGO.Zippy”

Hey all, i purchased 2 Brook UFB’s with hope that it can replace a pair of ps360+ i have in my arcade cabinet running windows 8.

Is there a way to get both Brook boards to boot into 360 mode without holding 3P? If not by firmware then perhaps by a script? My ps360+ is able to retain this setting so im hoping the Brook can as well. If possible i will need to buy a 3rd Brook UFB for my fight stick. Thanks!

[GOGO.Zippy]

@Brook_Engineer @“GOGO.Zippy”

Hey all, i purchased 2 Brook UFB’s with hope that it can replace a pair of ps360+ i have in my arcade cabinet running windows 8.

Is there a way to get both Brook boards to boot into 360 mode without holding 3P? If not by firmware then perhaps by a script? My ps360+ is able to retain this setting so im hoping the Brook can as well. If possible i will need to buy a 3rd Brook UFB for my fight stick. Thanks!

@makstaks
To short pin1&2 on J2 is forced in 360 mode on PC but will disable Xboxone mode.

[makstaks]

@Brook_Engineer @“GOGO.Zippy”

Hey all, i purchased 2 Brook UFB’s with hope that it can replace a pair of ps360+ i have in my arcade cabinet running windows 8.

Is there a way to get both Brook boards to boot into 360 mode without holding 3P? If not by firmware then perhaps by a script? My ps360+ is able to retain this setting so im hoping the Brook can as well. If possible i will need to buy a 3rd Brook UFB for my fight stick. Thanks!

@makstaks
To short pin1&2 on J2 is forced in 360 mode on PC but will disable Xboxone mode.

Thanks! I also connect gaming consoles to this arcade cabinet. If i short this connection then will it no longer work with the xbox one?

[sinonick]

put the pins on a switch that is accessible for when you switch to console

[Brook_Engineer]

which LED do you use? do you have more specific introduction information to the LED? or the specification to the LED?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C19END2/ref=twister_B01CNY3FY8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I got some from a buddy who ordered a pack of them. Cheap, gorgeous.

Surely the guys from Brook will know better, but from what I saw, UFB is not constantly powering the LEDs, but more intermitadly, like “pulsating”.
I didn’t really saw it untli the shutter of my camera catched it:

If you check the LEDs on one of my video here: https://youtu.be/tcjrIMuJrbs?t=9m47s you’ll see the led is pulsating.

So this could set your leds constantly “reseting”, and always stays at the first color.

Wow I saw it. This makes alot of sense. We’ll see if the Brook guys can confirm. Thanks bro

yes

[ASIAN_SEN5ATION]

No need to desolder the jack. There’s a set of USB points you can use. They’re the set of 4 labeled “V”, “D-”, “D+” and “G” in the J6-1 area.

Remember that all USB cables have a color code standard. The Red wire is VCC (goes to V), the White is Data- (goes to D-), the Green is Data+ (goes to D+) and the Black is GND (goes to G).

EDIT: Brain farted and realized you said you had a 3.0 cable. Not sure if they have more than 4 wires, but it’s probably best to ignore what I just said since I might be wrong lol

Yeah I just cut a 3.0 Cable open and it has Eight Wires. The Color Coated (Red, Green, Black, and White) Along with an additional Purple, Orange, Yellow, and Light Blue
Thinking of just ordering a 3.0 B Female Connector to 2.0 B Male Connector if they exist lol.

I thought using a 3.0 cable would be sick since it’s the new fad but realized it made extra work lol

EDIT: Found this http://www.overclock.net/t/1340389/guide-how-to-solder-your-own-usb2-0-3-0-cables

Damn Thanks for the info dude, I almost just ordered a 3.0 A-B USB Cable. Gonna change my order to a 2.0 one.

Thanks Again

[makstaks]

put the pins on a switch that is accessible for when you switch to console

Thanks, i was thinking of that but definitely don’t want to add switches to the cabinet for XboxOne compatibility. Was hoping a software-based solution is possible.

[Juggale]

OK, so I just got my board and everything that I ordered today from Focus Attack. AWESOME. Set everything up, put in all the wires, and go to update… ANNNNDDDD Connects then disconnects… and when I’m holding the PS and Select button even before I plug it in, I can’t update. I tried plugging it into my PS4 and nothing. I’m not sure if it’s the board if it’s the fact that my wires are stripped? (Do they have to be? I’m not really sure, I stripped the PS and Select button but that’s it) The board lights up and gets power but I’m not sure past that

I should also mention, I’m using a Hitbox Setup