Is there a resolution to the “final checksum error” on Macs? I haven’t gamed in a while and I was trying to update my PS3/PS4 Fighting Board on my Mac running 10.12.6 and version 2.0 of the Brook software.
EDIT: It worked finally. I don’t know how, but I ran it a few times and it failed. Then I restarted my Mac, deleted the installer, re-downloaded a fresh copy, and did a direct connection to the Mac instead of through my USB hub, and it worked. Not sure which of the troubleshooting methods was the fix (maybe all of them at once!).
Hmmm… @“GOGO.Zippy” @Brook_Engineer Is there room for significant improvement (via firmware updates) in input lag for the Switch mode? I can feel some lag while playing Sonic Mania… The spheres special stage makes it apparent to me as it speeds up and quick reactions become more and more important (the player can focus on compensating for the delay, but it’s far from nice…).
So, with all of the rumors of the PS4 Pro shorting out sticks and what-not, I just wanted to ask if anyone has been using a UFB on a PS4 Pro regularly and if they have had any problems?
Hmm could it be you have the 20 pin connector inverted on one of your pcbs? The brook has the 20 pin on the left bottom, the ps360 on the top right yet i can see the red wires on the left on both.
From what I can tell it looks like you aren’t using a dpt switch or an imp board? If so I believe when you plug in 1 board it will cause the other to also receive power but maybe someone who knows more can elaborate on it.
Edit: Oh wait you are trying to connect both at same time…not sure if that is even possible.
An imp or dpt are only needed when you want to switch data lines on a single outgoing port. Since each pcb has its own port and he would only need to use one port (usb or ethernet) at a time so it should be fine
Nah, just a bad camera angle. All of the pins are connected together to their corresponding spots via the harness. I double checked with a multimeter to make sure.
edit: I’m retarded, the 20 pin cable was rotated on the PS360 side, disregard this lmao
Manual modes probably work fine except for X360 and XONE. Those are simply ignored by the computer as if I never plugged them in. Tried this on Windows 10 and on Linux.
Here’s some screenshots of booting the device in all modes https://imgur.com/a/4lA9X
Firmware upgrading works fine. Don’t have access to any console atm to try, but I assume PS pokken and switch stuff work fine, they are recognized as a device after all, while XB modes are simply as if never plugged on Linux, and give the “Device Descriptor Request Failed” on Windows 10.
This is with the bare board connected to the usb and buttons screwed on for the manual modes.
Any idea what to try next? I’ve castrated my panthera and I can’t use the UFB… :sobs: It’s either diggin up the old stick or installing the original board back for some games until I find a solution.
edit turns out I had an email from arcadeshock waiting, according to them the board is dead, i’ll ship it back with tracking and they’ll send a replacement
Is the UFB compatible with RetroPie running on a Raspberry Pi 3?
I have been having some very odd experiences with it. I am using a long extension cable for my controllers when hooked into Pi3 but my keyboard, PS4, and fake SNES controller are all working just fine. Then when I plug in my UFB joystick it is like the power doesn’t come on right away. Then I’ve tried jiggling my wire and it appears to come on. I finally got it set up and configured but then when I went to plug it back in (after OK’ing out with the keyboard) it didn’t work.
Then I booted up my Pi3 with the UFB plugged in and it worked just fine. I was playing SF2 (just to test it out) and it worked great. I then unplugged it, and plugged it back in while the Pi3 was running, and I got the same thing where it didn’t power on right away, and I had to jiggle the wire or something to get it to power on and I saw the blue light flickering on/off, but then I noticed my Pi3 was frozen so I had to do a hard reset.
I don’t think there is anything wrong with my UFB or the wiring because I have used it on PS4 within the past couple weeks just fine and it’s been sitting there. I’ve also used it for HBO Go every weekend when GoT is on and I haven’t had any of these issues.
Is there some sort of power consumption issue with the UFB while running the Pi3? I was thinking maybe it wasn’t drawing enough power. I am running the Pi3 with one of the 5v/2.5a power supplies and I have it OC’d slightly as well to 1350Mhz and bumped up the RAM/GPU too. The power supply I’m using came with the case here and has some more details in the link:
I have used 4 UFB’d sticks on two of my 1.3 GHz overclocked Pi’s running Recalbox 4.0 and Retropie 4.2 with 5V 2.5A adapters, with zero issues. Which mode are you using? I use either PS3 or Xbox 360 modes without issue
The stick doesn’t even power on. I’ve tried to force each mode without any success. Pi was either powered with a 2.5A adapters or a DC-DC 24/12V to 5V 10A.
To be more specific, it’s was a PS3/PS4+ with sound board, not an UFB.
How do you boot it in PS3 or 360 mode? I tried holding X down (the equivalent of X on Xbox consoles) when I plugged it in once, and I did notice that it said “brooks 3” or something, versus when I plugged it in without holding anything it said “Brooks 4” or something. I just remember it had different numbers. However both times I had power issues.
My Pi3 is OC’d to 1.35GHz with the overvolt set to 6 but I’m not sure about the memory speed. I also don’t see the lightning bolt on screen when I’m having issues or anything.
The spheres special stage makes it apparent to me as it speeds up and quick reactions become more and more important (the player can focus on compensating for the delay, but it’s far from nice…).