Alright. Yes, it would work and then just cut off randomly. I’ll be buying a new cable tonight.
Sometimes my stick does cut off. Is it because of interference? I just thought it was a loose USB connection.
I actually didnt connect the shield ground to anything. Should I redo the wiring and connect the shield?
it wouldn’t hurt
have you tried to update the latest firmware?
Sorry for the late reply. Yes, it’s using the latest firmware. USB has been replaced and it’s been doing much better in general though it tends to disconnect in PS4 mode while playing Guilty Gear Revelator demo. I heard the game itself can be buggy when two PS4 sticks are used so maybe that’s the case but it disconnects every now and then during single player training mode. Seems to work best in PS3 mode using the game’s legacy support. I’ll post again after more play time to get a feel of how it’s doing after an extended period of time.
ok
Hi, guys.
Update notes for v1.3 say
. I assume that means turn SOCD-cleaning on or off. But I couldn’t find how to do it anywhere. Does anyone know?
No, it means they made an adjustment according to feedback in this thread.
Hi Guys
Brook already searched more info from our distributors and a few guys.
We will use combo keys to setup Stick outputting LS/DP/RS
Almost recommend is used >> OPTIONS + DPAD
Press OPTIONS + Left => LS
Press OPTIONS + Up => DP ( Default when reboot )
Press OPTIONS + Right => RS
Whaaat @GOGO.Zippy does this work with the brook adapters or exclusive to the ufb pcb? Available now or an upcoming update?
Awesome!
Is there a possibility for:
Options + 1P = L3
Options + 2P = R3
I just want to be able to use the training mode shortcuts 
Even L1, L2 for us 6 button folks.
Yo,
(@GOGO.Zippy @Brook_Engineer )
So far my experience with the Universal Fight Board has been stellar. BUT, I ran into an interesting problem yesterday evening at my local gaming center, and there was a super gun setup for ST.
The owner of the super gun mentioned that it’s set up for PS3 / XBox 360 configuration. Now knowing that the PCB is supposed to auto-detect the console platform, it did not register to the super gun for some reason. I’ve updated the latest firmware as well.
Any ideas would be much appreciated – Thanks.
update your UFB, then use 1p (Square/X) for forced PS3 mode or 3p (R1/RB) for forced X360 mode.
you can test this usage using joy.cpl in windows
^^ Ok will do thanks.
@Brook_Engineer @GOGO.Zippy Update regarding my USB issues. Stick failing to maintain connection after a good week. Would like to note that it has never been consistent but now it’ll disconnect even quicker than before and this problem is consistent in PS3 and PS4 mode. I’ve gone through 3 USB cables to troubleshoot that maybe the cable is to blame, but still has problems remaining connected. Not seeing any solder bridges through visual inspection. Been soldering directly to the pad instead of the through hole since I’ve never had a problem with this method on all other USB wires I’ve soldered to PS360+ mods I’ve done for myself and friends. Any idea what can be causing this board to short out (that’s what I think is happening)? I can provide pics if needed at a later time.
Just to note, I bought this board from an SRK user who had a surplus. Paid the retail price for the board and probably only saved a bit from shipping. If it wasn’t through this user, it would have been bought from an official provider.
Hello Everybody!
First of all,
My apologises for my bad english.
I’m having similar issues to DarkSaul.
I 'd like to share with you my experience With: Atrox, Cerberus and Brook.
My 1st controller was an Atrox + Cerberus, where I used to use Cerberus as a parasite on Atrox.
The Cerberus PCB, received the signal, and decided, based on the system that it was connected and decided where to send it.
It was soldered directly over Atrox.So it used Atrox’s connections to receive buttons’ signal.
I tried to do something like this with Atrox and Brook.
I know that Brook can’t act as a parasite on Atrox. But I guessed that I could solder it only on Atrox’s contacts.
So, I soldered Brook’s buttons directly on Atrox matching buttons.
BUT…
I divided the USB Cable.
One part is the USB that come from Atrox
The other is the USB that come from Brook.
I used this Switch (I don’t know it’s name in english). It has 12 contacts and 3 positions.
I Programed this way:
1st Position - The USB cable comes to Atrox
2nd Position - There’s no connection
3rd Position - The USB cable comes to Brook
So… After doing this, I tested. And the results were:
1st Position:
PC And Xbox detected the PCB As ATROX PCB. BUT 3K and 4K didn’t work!
2nd Position:
Nothing Happens (as expected)
3rd Position:
PC detected it as a Xbox PCB, but not Atrox ( WHAT?!?!?!)
Now… Let’s go to PS (in my case, PS3):
All Buttons were recognized… but… BUT…B-U-T…
When I pressed home, the system gone MAD! It called the XBM, exited it, but didn’t allow me to resume the game. It remained paused forever, and I realized that both PCBs were energized. The Ps3 Warned me about this.
I’m almost quitting this project…
Does Anyone have some suggestion?
Thanks everyone!
PS: Here come the images:
Scheme
Brook soldered on Atrox
My Switch
Testing directly only on Atrox
http://i.imgur.com/qaxCqqe.jpg
Testing directly only on Brook
http://i.imgur.com/6gl2mPH.jpg
Windows Device and Printers
http://i.imgur.com/GAF4Kfo.jpg
All Buttons working
http://i.imgur.com/5lmhbfJ.jpg
“The maximum energy quantity that can be given to USB devices was reached. Remove at least one device”
When I press Home… It gone Crazy!
both pcbs need to be powered at all times.So you should only switch the data lines.
Why? May you explain me?