Did you solder jumpers A and C?
@mR_CaESaR i had the data lines crossed during my testing and fixed them (nothing worked at that point). after fixing, P4 Gamepad came up on Win10 for a second, disconnected. then i switched through home button, Xbox 360 Controller came up on Win10 for a second, disconnected.
afterwards i checked continuity on all the solder joints i made, and also wired the USBVCC-D3-D4-D5-D6 to the channel LED pinouts on the focusattack IST breakout. on the focusattack IST breakout, P4 LED is actually connected to nothing because the brook ps3/ps4 board only supports up to P3 LED. can this be an issue?
@Vicko i did solder SJA and SJC ā are the 2 squares supposed to be connected when solder is applied? if so, then i did it right.
iāll desolder my daisy chained button functions and make sure each pcb powers up on their own, then redo everything step by step w multimeter checking along the way. iāll keep you guys updated.
You may have to force a mode to get it to stick since youāre on windows 10. Other people in this thread had the same problem.
You should be fine on whatever consoles youāre playing on.
hmm ok, firmware update must be done first then. thanks! =D
Ok so I desoldered the daisy chained inputs and just plugged in the IST Brook Breakout only. Same thing ā powers up for a second then disconnects. I have a feeling the brook board or the breakout is defective. Any ideas besides RMA w focusattack?
Have you tried on a PS3 console or a Windows 7 machine? Iāve used about 40 Brook boards and not one defective.
havenāt tried ps3 or win7, but on ps4 itās the same thing ā stick is recognized for a second, and disconnects. maybe the breakout is bad?
New board had a similar issue with one of the capacitors twisted with the legs crossing, but I made sure to clear them before I tested the board. This one works with no issues.
If you get one, just make sure the legs of the capacitors are clear from each other before you plug anything in. Two in a row isnāt good. FA said that theyāre looking into either having one without these capacitors, or a different manufacturing process that eliminates this issue.
turns out all usb solder joints (underneath usb mount, alternative usb hookup, bottom of brook ps3/ps4 board) failed to keep power on the board. always would disconnect after 1-5 seconds, tops.
the ONLY usb solder joints that didnāt do this were the ones directly on top of the brook ps3/ps4 board. by wiring to those usb solder points and to the impv2, i was able to get the board working and switching to and from impv2 using home button.
now iāve got a different issue with the 360 side of my dual mod (ps4 side is perfect now. so i think itās becoming off topic but whilst i have the tech talk veteransā attention hereā¦) where it is just not being recognized by my pc. i can switchbetween the two boards on the impv2 with home button, but when i plug the usb cable into my pc while in 360 mode, nothing comes up. no āunrecognized usb deviceā message or anything. any ideas? O_o
some pics to show that inputs have been daisy chained between brook ps3/ps4 board and madcatz 360 TE pcb, in case theyāre helpful:
Does it make the sound when you plug in the USB cable?
I imagine thereās 5v and GND going to the 360 pcb?
My wires to the imp v2 are as follows.
Imp V = 360 5V
Imp XD+ = 360 D+
Imp XD- = 360 D-
no ānew deviceā sound when usb is plugged in, when in 360 mode. all the daisy chained inputs show continuity, all the solder joints are not touching each other, etc.
my wiring is correct, same as yours @mR_CaESaR thanks for verifying 
i think iāll wire an independent usb cable to the madcatz 360 pcb and see if it is recognized at all.
i shared gnd with the madcatz 360 pcb and the brook, is that necessary? i didnāt think so but i did it just in case.
EDIT: i just thought of this ā does the madcatz 360 TE/Pro/VS pcb not function without the turbo panel and button distribution board? i suppose i will test this out.
Alright, so Iāve come to terms with the fact that I probably messed up the solder pad for the joystick UP direction. Probably fried it and re-fried it after numerous attempts thinking my initial solder attempts were just bad (they probably were). I chose to solder on top of the pad instead of using the through hole method so thatās where I probably messed up first. What can I do to remedy this? Can I solder a wire here then solder that wire to the UP wire in the JLF harness? Thanks in advance! Hereās a pic:
Scrape the green off that line and solder to the exposed copper. I wouldnāt solder too close to the chip, too many things could go wrong. Get a bit of solder to stick to the copper first and fix the wire with glue or something so I doesnāt move.
Looking at that image again, it might be the L3 solder point touching the UP solder point thatās giving you the problem. Try cleaning the L3 solder point of solder first incase they are touching. Assuming thatās L3 beside UP. It could make UP not work if they are touching.
Yes, make sure you have no solder bridges first.
Also for that pad, which side are you trying to solder too.
It could be you pulled out the via, the metal tube that goes into the hole for that pad.
Thanks for the tips. I donāt think itās a solder bridge between UP and L3, but Iāll provide a pic without the markings below. Please take a look!
Thanks for the insight too! Iāve been soldering on the other side, the top, of the board where it has all the labels. I canāt tell if the via has been pulled out (probably likely) as this is the cleanest solder pad I can seem to get after solder sucker and wick.
Hereās the pic concerning the solder bridge. Looks like there could be a sliver connecting the two. How would I go about test for just the UP direction without soldering all of the JLF wires?:
Just wanted to say that I had a successful and very easy install of the Brook Fightboard Focus Attack IST breakout. Updating the firmware was very easy and simple. My custom fightstick automatically is set to Xinput when plugged into my PC, auto detects PS3 and most importantly it auto detects PS4 and works flawlessly.
The standard wire harness that comes with Focus Attackās kit are very short, so I simply added extensions to the buttons needed by making my own extension harness using male and female .110 connectors.
I really like this kit and is well worth the money for your PS4 solution.
Check out some pics of my build:
This fightstick was made out of a hand-painted, 18"x14" canvas.
@saikofart @Darksakul Went ahead and cleaned up any pad of possible solder bridges and soldered to an exposed exposed trace. All of the directions are now working! The next problem Iām having is random disconnect issues. Was able to update and play on all systems for a good 15min then all of a sudden, the USB would crap out on me. Iām suspecting a USB problem? My main question is whether itās normal to have to use the shield ground from a USB in addition to ground when soldering to PCBs like this Brook board. It was the only way I got it working in the first place, so Iām gonna try the same once I get a new cable (used an old one I had laying around).
using the shield ground to ground is fine. If anything it should help with any interference.
Does the controller cut out or reconnect when you adjust the USB Cable?