I just updated today and it still times out after 8 minutes. : / I’m going to try running the update again later, but does anyone else have the same issues?
Just for completeness, I’m using the Mac support software and using it on my PS4 obviously.
~Paik
Yup, my mac update for 1.4 don’t work. gotta find a PC somewhere
I’ve been using an original PS3 Mad Catz TE through legacy on SFV and feel as though some of my inputs aren’t registering. Specifically, jumping straight up instead of forward and jab not working. I don’t know if button issues derive from the PCB or if it’s the DS4 pass through causing lag, but would the IST Pre-Installed Brook PS3/PS4 Fight Board PCB Kit be worthwhile? Does it allow booting up the PS4 from the fight stick? I’m thinking about replacing the joystick spring with a heavier Sanwa one for the possible joystick issue, but would a Kowal oversized actuator help as well?
it is worth while when any brook pcb is installed. its a great product
But what that has to do with PS4 Compatibility?
In my opinion, Kowal actuator is a waste of money. It does not improve actual game play.
All it does is shorten the throw/engage which works for some people but you also have to have tighter execution of your moves.
By default the Stock Sanwa JLF is very forgiving with sloppy play/execution, mod it and you mod also that bit of space you have to play-with.
Meaning you have to be more on point and more precise with your movements.
Now back to the real topic, the PS3 compatibility of your stick.
Its no secret that the legacy drivers has issues, if you are that concern you have the following options:
please try again and let me know if it works.
@Brook_Engineer When I have a Standard PS4 stick (new Mad catz TE2+) plugged in and signed into Player 1, then plug in my modded stick with Brook Fight Board, it steals the sign in to player one and turns off the Player 1 stick.
Does the wiring for the "Player LED’s on the Brook matter? I only have the player 1 LED wired up.
I can get both sticks to work by going to Switch Profile -> Log in as Guest … then turn back on the TE2 and select first profile, but it takes a few tries to get it going.
Anything I need to change or instructions?
Other than that my modded stick with Brook board works great even with the new firmware.
Cheers,
Styles
I was going to try just now, but it looks like you guys took down the Mac download. I’ll try with the Windows version since it seems like that one works.
~Paik
It's possible you've worn down your actuator if you'be been using that TE since SF4 Vanilla and just need to replace w/another Sanwa actuator. Whilst in there clean off all the white debris off your switches, they should have plenty of life/actuation s on them. And I do recommend the Kowal oversized actuator, requires less throw but that also means a learning curve to get used to the new, faster, stricter actuations.
So order both a new original Sanwa and the oversized to see what you prefer.Worked with the PC upgrade. Although that failed once and I had to try again. But it’s definitely okay now : )
~Paik
According to Teyah, the PS3 TE is intrinsically laggy. I put a Brook FB in mine, as well as a new optical sensor for the JLF and I couldn’t be happier. Could have went on with a new actuator only but got annoyed by my DS4 losing charge and getting disconnected.
Just got the board with the IST breakout board in the mail today. Wired it up, plugged it in, and… nothing. Can’t even get my computer to recognize it to start
Here’s some pictures of the top and bottom.
imgur.com/jYeqtEb
imgur.com/nCpb1WU
Looks like there may be a spot where they didn’t solder a ground in.
It looks like the capacitors terminal legs might be crossing, but I can’t 100% tell from the pic.
Wow, who soldered those on?
That’s pretty much how it came. I should know better than to not spot that. I’ll give it a shot, thanks for the help!
Edit: They looked very close together. Pulling them apart didn’t fix it. I have a ticket open with FA’s support. Hopefully they can help straighten it out!
Im curious how it turns out @TheWrathOfSean because I am getting ready to install mine. Let us know what ended up being the issue.
Good to hear that
i’ll check it
does the player indicator LED solder joints on the ps3/ps4 fightboard work the same as universal fightboard? except, on the ps3/ps4 fightboard they’re labeled LED-G, LED-R, LED-B and VCC?
in other words, same thing as universal fightboard’s VCC-P1-P2-P3-P4 except only 3 players are supported on the ps3/ps4 board?
D+ looks sketchy from the top as does that GND, but one ground is fine.
Do you have a multimeter? have you tested on another PC?