i had a problem with not being able to update because I had the imp v2 installed. What I did is switch it to the non-brook pcb, unhook usb from computer, hold select+home and plug the usb in the computer and it came up as HID Transfer. maybe the same problem you have? hope it helps
At first time, it changes to Other (HID Transfer) mode when you pressed two buttons in PC, OS will automatically install usb standard driver.
Maybe reboot and re-do update all steps
- Run App
- Press two buttons then plug on USB. (you should look a HID transfer In device and printer )
- Update icon enabled to do.(Don’t release two buttons)
- Waiting and.finishing
Please try again and thanks…
Got it to update Zippy. Had to take it out of the Crossbone. Thanks zippy.
I guess it depends on what button you have for your system switching, no?
Most people use home/guide, since that is what is specified on the IMP guide
Since most things now use home/guide, select, start, or some combination of the 2, I’ve been using A or an unused turbo button.
Never mind, wrong topic. Please delete.
I also tried taking out the switch and made the brook fightboard the primary board being used and it still wouldn’t go into the HID Transfer mode when holding home+select. I think the way the brook board handles bootloading is a lot different than the ps360+ because I never had any problems with the ps360+ and crossbone when forcing modes or updating. Iunno thats just my two cents. Im just glad I got it to work.
It did after I took it out of the stick it was in. I had to solder a separate usb cable to it and wire the home and select buttons. The IMP and/or Crossbone seems to conflict with going into update mode. So updating is going to be a pain until I can figure out why is has a problem with the IMP/Crossbone.
But yeah, the fightboard is now updated. Thanks for the help Zippy.
so apparently mine updated even after saying update failed. oh well it works haha
Yesterday when I was playing the SFV beta, the stick would lock up after winning or losing a match where you select to go back to training mode or back to training. It was definitely more than 8 minutes at a time, but it’s weird because one time I played for 2 hours straight, then it locked up, another time was much shorter, than it locked up, the last time was more than an hour and a half and it didn’t stop working… Weird. I had to press the home button on my pad then press home again on the stick with the brook pcb. I think maybe it was the game… Hope it was.
Anyone know if the Brook Fight board PCB can be updated in Apple OS?
Unfortunately not yet…
Brook got all guys voice…
Hello guys and Brook
I must admit i have very very big problem with Brook PCB the 1st revision.
Got it delivered in the beginning of January. Me and my friend of novice soldering skills had soldered it in a following way
Before the time we assembled PCB completely we installed the latest firmware. Then on 14th January the new firmware was released and we completed assembling. then tried to apply that firmware. Pressed and holded select+home, plugged USB, launched application, installation had run fast to ~90% then said Update Failure. It happened several times with no succesful result. After that wi didnt check PCB for functioning. I grabbed my stick and went home.
After 2-3 hours, at home, i tried to use my stick with Brook PCB. And u know what? PCB wasnt working at all.
PC doesnt see he either. I checked every last bit of PCB, all the soldering and i didnt find problems.
I dont have a slightest idea what happened, but Brook doesnt look burned or something like that.
All i can think about - is weak capacitor or any stuff like that in pcb electrical chain, any high sensitivity electronics inside. It broke for some reason.
I hardly think there is no my fault, its spoilage in production, defect. It should be covered by warranty.
All i want is to know for sure - is PCB dead or something can be done?
If dead, i want my money back, or exchange with international shipment refund.
Please understand me, im not trying to abuse or something like that, i can apply ant proof required, to show that i really have bought this PCB and any photos, so u can see there is no burn. I`m ready to send invoice order information from Paradise Arcade to Brook representative, no problems.
Please respond.
Thank you.
That soldering is terrible.
Hi just wondering if I get a PS3/ps4 fighting board with the paradise breakout, will it still be firmware upgradeable? Also will the breakout introduce more lag?
Is the lag value the same between the ps4 fight board and the brook universal fighting board?
Thanks
It is, every soldering join done looks terrible.
Pads are not “wet” with solder, every soldering joint looks like a cold or distributed join.
Only the wiring that been passed though got soldered.
Some joins don’t have enough solder other has too much.
If this board in the state it was in those photos came to me, I would have to de-solder everything.
Clean the board, flux every pad and start over.
@Capablanca
I suggest you and your friend watch one of the many “How to Solder Videos” that are on You Tube.
I found a few for you to watch.
This first video is one of the better instructional videos on Soldering.
https://youtu.be/IpkkfK937mU
You don’t nessisarily need a $100 soldering station but this guy recommend it as it helps with temperature settings.
You can get away with a cheap $15 soldering Iron.
https://youtu.be/J5Sb21qbpEQ
This last video is major old-school but everything here still holds true today.
It also goes into the science how any why everything is the way it is for soldering.
https://youtu.be/vIT4ra6Mo0s
I have an older model of Hakko, from back when black and gold were their color scheme. It is amazing. Anyone who is semi-serious about soldering owes it to themselves to get a quality iron. The difference between a good iron and the RShack junk is night and day.
The soldering job you’ve done is not fit for purpose and must be put right. It’s unlikely that you’ve damaged the pcb so consider getting it done by someone with more experience.
Or practice lots on an old circuit board.
Also… a multimeter is your friend, get one.
@Capablanca
I’m sorry to heard this issue.
Please help me to check again.
- Check to solder USB Cable
- Plug it in USB on PC
- What’s the device in printer and device area?
- If it’s nothing, the board was death
- Please give me a invoice of your board.
- BROOK can offer one new board to U again.