I will admit, I have been looking at the Mega SG more than I have the Super NT. The SG has more systems that it’ll play natively versus the Super NT.
But in hind sight I prefer the MiSTer to any Analouge consoles now
It’s a little bot more money, but you can skip getting a flash cart and get support for alot more old game consoles and home micro computers
DE10 Nano is in my Amazon cart. CPS2 core drops and I pull the trigger. Til then I’ll just watch smokemonster vids
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CPS2 is going to be a while as CPS1 is still in development
All this fpga hype and arcade perfect version of xyz and ps9 version of xyz is the best port of…
Some People spend too long getting the “perfect setup” and in the end dont even spend much time playing bevause theyve bough in to the "i can feel xyz version skips 2 frames or this port has 1 frame of lag…
99.9% of people (including me) would not know the difference unless it was pointef out.
Yrs its probably a bit of a generalisation,
but i can only notice difference on sf2 after 20 years of playing the game. Others i cannot tell at all
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I agree. Unless you play that one game to Death, you not notice.
And as you get older, your ability to notice lag will decrease drastically.
Also you can adapt, its how people do 1 frame links. Its humanly impossible to perceive events less than a single frame, some small children can but they lose this as they hit their teens.
They do it by anticipating the event and having good timing rather than actually seeing the event.
Picked up a DOL-001 Gamecube this morning after donating along with a set of component cables for my PS2. Combined over the past couple of days, I’ve spent nearly $200 on various Nintendo things.
Edit: Also signed up for Texas Showdown in May, repping the ol SRK TT tag. Signed up for Tekken and SCVI.
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Decided to try something different with the new MiSTer case I acquired
This case was from zerohimself that he selling as a imperfect case.
I Added some Carbon Fiber textured vinyl wrap on the end panels
I think it went nice with the Red 3D printed case
Excuse the photo quality, I got a new phone and this is my first time using the camera on it.
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Nice work on the casing.
Planning on getting my next set of stuff in the 48 hours or so. Need to grab quite a few things that will get delayed by Amazon (Datel Freeloader chief amongst them).
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Thanks, Zerohimself does some good work.
I felt after getting that case that black sides would have a nice contrast, I got the textured vinyl wrap and decided why not give it carbon fiber looking end pieces.
I am still debating if I want to add the MiSTer logo or not.
Tech Talk, especially the butthole been to quiet
So I will post what I been up to
Refabbing this Dreamcast. This is my personal model. Yes I kicked the USB GDRom to the curb as it was bricked, I got a clone GDEmu in there instead
I also found that you can put LEDs in the Dreamcast Modem.
I did a single LED as a proof of concept. You want to tap into the connector, pin 1 for 5 volts and pin 11 for ground.
Here an actual full pinout for those who are interested
Summary
1: + 5V
2: + 5V
3: + 5V
4: + 5V
5: / MODEMCS * modem enable {output} (modem / lan adapter [HIT-0300] area enable)
6: / IRQA * interrupt request A {input} (used modem unit / lan adapter [HIT-0300])
7: ???
8: ???
9: ???
10: GND
11: GND
12: GND
13: / IRQB * interrupt request B {input} (used BBA [HIT-0400])
14: / LBE / WR * lower byte enable {output} (direction / lower byte enable / write enable (when active / MODEMCS) )
15: ???
16: / UBE / RD * upper byte enable {output} (upper byte enable / read enable (when active / MODEMCS) )
17: + 3.3V
18: + 3.3V
19: + 3.3V
20: / BTB * bus termination B {input} (access time control / burst transfer)
21: / AEN * address enable {output} (address enable / bus cycle start)
22: / BTA * bus termination A {input} (access time control / burst transfer)
23: GND
24: GND
25: AD15 *
… * AD [15: 0] {output / input} (address / data multiplexed 16bit bus)
*. 25pin to 40pin (AD [15: 8] 8 bit address bus / AD [7: 0] 8 bit data bus (when active / MODEMCS))
40: AD0 *
41: GND * (guard GND of system clock)
42: GND * (guard GND of system clock)
43: CLK * system clock {output} (25MHz)
44: GND
45: GND
46: / RESET * system reset {output}
47: GND
48: GND
49: ???
50: ???
Here the one waiting parts
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that’s dope!
So, after braving Micro Center yesterday due to a motherboard exchange and their policies for CV, I came home with a 256gb Thumbdrive that I plan on putting games for my modded PS2 on, since the network adapter is busted after my PS2 took a dive on the console’s anniversary here recently. Luckily, I was sage enough to foresee this happen and I installed OPL, just in case HDLoader doesn’t want to work with the thumbdrive. Will find the time this week to remove my IDE drive from the adapter itself, and put the adapter on the back until I can find a scrap fat PS2 to get the backplate from.
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I assume the PS2 is softmodded with MC Freeboot, unless you are talking about a Slim.
My PS2 I got a chineses Knock off Adapter with a SATA interface and a Laptop 1TB HDD.
OPL is just more advanced over the HD Loader, and HD Loader hasn’t been updated since it stopped being a commercial product.
It is indeed modded with Mc Freeboot. It’s also the PS2 I got from our last Tech Talk Secret Santa before we started joining up with General Discussion, as bonus loot. That was three years ago, I think?
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Anyone knows a good AC adapter that relativily noise free for a Dreamcast Pico PSU.
And please don’t tell me to use a Xbox 360 Power brick.
Some idiot on a FB group keep on insisting that the Xbox 360 PSU is stable.
Can’t believe I’ve been trying to polish this turd since Jan 30th, OMG!!! Still pretty turdy in my opinion.
Will post more pics of work done tomorrow, but felt a weak pulse from the butthole, and wanted to contribute.
Glad everyone is still alive and modding. Stay safe 'n healthy SRK TT folks.
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I use this one, recommended by Laserbear
Just note that the barrel jack is a bit long, but it works just fine.
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Three Saturdays ago, I had finally gotten enough bits together to get the CL GameCube turd polishing project started. My iFixIt kit with a Nintendo game-bit had arrived in the mail, purchased a six pack of compressed air from Costco (this is prolly being hoarded now a days), unearthed my dusty old Harbor Freight multi-meter, and found a handful of sacrificial old toothbrushes.
Behold my new to me, dirt 'n all, “The ( any ) disc could not be read.” DOL-001! Clearly from the “tan lines” this GameCube had enjoyed living in a non-non-smoking home for quite some time before I picked it up.
Not as filth nasty as @FreedomGundam 's pawn shop pick up but still plenty gross.
Everything torn down and cleaned up. Didn’t take the heat sink off the motherboard to clean underneath, mistake?
Took a minute to re-familiarize myself with the multi-meter again, but after a few iFixIt guides and YouTube videos I was able to adjust the potensiometer from its original setting of 426Ω to 235Ω
Having no internal compass as to where the point of no return is, splurged on a fan replacement kit from laserbear.net
Here’s hoping it actually does improve air flow 
Also seeing as Nicotine and tar do not give two F’s about a complete tear down and washing of all the plastic parts, found someone on eBay that still had an XCM GC Viper top shell. Don’t know if I need it, but it sure is a hell of a lot mo’purrrty than putting the gross old top half back on. The LED lights PCB that goes in the lid was rusty busted, but beggars can’t be choosers, and I was never planning on using the GameCube with it on anyways. The Viper sticker has seen better days, so I Goo-Gone’ed it off the lid’s cap, and sent the cap off to some Etsy person for some raised sticker wizardry. Gonna make me a normal Nintendo logo.
Then I tracked down a Psyclone Pro S-Video/AV Cable. I was initially looking for a nice old Monster Cable GameLink but folks were charging waaaaay too much! ( He says now after all the other crap he’s already bought 
)
“Gold Plated” and looks to have good independent grounds and non-bridged together S-Video/Composite video leads from what I can tell looking at the plug.
The last thing I have to do is take a social distancing safari down to my trunk of funk storage locker and find my old official Nintendo Component cable this weekend. Got it new for $45 back when the old Network Video import game shop in downtown Burlingame, CA was still alive the kicking, looking at you @drawnfix if you remember that spot from the early 2000’s.
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Nice, I also did the Fan mod
It runs alot more quietly now
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@Feargus001100
Nice!
(this was like 1 1/2 months ago) I ended up getting a cheap XenoGC modchip for my GameCube. Costed me all of $2 on eBay. Took like 45 days to get here. 
I installed it the proper way, worked fine when I was testing it, but after full reassembly, it was only able to read discs (any region) like 25% of the time. Took the whole thing apart, desoldered and resoldered the XenoGC, tested and was fine, reassembled. Now it was only able to read discs (any region) like 75% of the time. Figured that I might have bridged a couple of solder points (the standard installation is really annoying). I took it apart again, and installed it an alternative way with wires:
Worked just fine with discs of all regions…
… then I finally got my hands on my old burned discs from my parents’ house. And the GC wouldn’t read them. Because I forgot to adjust the potentiometer. So I had to take the thing apart yet again. For some reason I wasn’t able to get a good read on the value of the potentiometer, so I went through the process of turning it a bit and testing, until the burned discs were being read, then dialed it back a bit until they stopped being read, then turned it back. Man what an ordeal.
I’m currently using a Nintendo-plug RAD2X for it (since it’s an NTSC DOL-001, you only get composite/S-Video from the standard AV port, unlike the PAL GameCubes that output RGB from the standard AV port); eventually I’ll probably a Carby HDMI adapter for the digital port.
Ideally I’d install an internal HDMI mod like the the GCDual, but considering it’s more expensive than a Carby and I’d have to install it, it’s not the most preferred scenario.
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