I finally got around to finishing my multi-mod stick. I’ve had a separate USB and RJ45 jack in it for over a year.
Made a RJ45 USB cable, then snipped the USB D+/D- lines from the DPDT switch. Snipped the D & E wires of the RJ45 on the MC Cthulhu and ran them to the DPDT switch.
Voila! Now I don’t have to use a USB B cable to play on PS3/360.
Now… for that USB Jack, I just put an 8GB Flash Drive I’ve had lying around for a couple months. Think I’ll load some games onto it now!
I like that, Kazujiro. I like the idea, and you mean like 8 GB flash drive for Xbox 1? Because I actually did a mod to my memory card unit that basically was dremelling out a hole for a female USB A, and then taking out the PCB of the orginal meory unit, and just soldering the USB wires to the male end of the memory unit, and plugging it into the Xbox controller. It was good for loading game saves and tranferring them over the internet and PC, plus having expanded meory as USB format. Only problem was that not all USB flash drives worked, and it had to be formatted, and the xbox would format it automatically. But other than that, it was a cool mod.
No idea what you’re talking about, I never played on an Xbox1.
I just have a USB Flash Drive in it right now, just need to find where I stored all my emulators to play on a PC with it.
Oh, you’re going to keep your ROMs on the flash drive and load it right off of the stick?
I was using the only idea I thought of. On modded Xboxes, there was a lot of emulators, but the memory capacity of the memory cards was terrible. So, I modded my memory card to basically be a USB flash drive, and plugged into my xbox 1 controller. You’re doing the same kind of thing, but on PC. You can get your PC to read the flash drive from your stick? That is cool.
Yeah, it’ll have 2 USB cords coming from it though, haha.
Ah, well, that makes a lot more sense. I thought if you were going to be able to do it all from one wire, that would be a mod worth seeing!
I’ve completed a second FrankenFightPad, but I am not ready to show it yet. Waiting on buttons.
I honestly feel like this is going to start some sort of revolution. I toyed with the thought of a gamecube analog stick-style somehow outputting digital controls. For people who like to use the analog sticks, but want something closer to an “octagonal gate,” so to speak. That, and I honestly like the gamecube analog stick.
We’ve got a bunch of kick-ass people here in TT. Just saying.
On a related note, I think I’m going to go screw around with some LEDs.
from what i understand, powerline network adapters can be a hit or miss in one’s house due to many factors like wireing and noise, and whatnot. but anyways, whats a good brand to buy from?
Random questions that I didn’t feel like making a thread for:
If I want smooth, even LED lighting in a Seimitsu PS-14-KN, then I should put in two leds at opposite sides, correct?
Also, what’s better: drilling in through the small round pegs on the bottom of the switch, or going through the bottom of the button (right next to the black plastic clips on the switch)?
If anyone has a tutorial handy, please let me know. I’ve searched for a while and found nothing of use, except threads where people were going to try something, but never posted pictures.
You should look into Arc-eyes before they’re all gone. They are a PCB that fits directly into the PS-14-KN, and has two lights, and already has resistors fitted in for you. http://shoryuken.com/f177/project-gouken-project-arc-eye-226103/
As far as cutting, I’d go for for the bottom of the button, don’t want to drill into your black “pegs,” which are the microswitches, you could have some problems with your buttons drilling into that, so just dremel/drill out some space to fit some wire into the button. Look around in the arc-eye thread. There’s some pretty good info in there.
I’m familiar with arc-eyes, and didn’t want to go that route. I’m just trying to figure out what my options are with standard 3mm LEDs because I already have a bunch of them and wish to use those with Toodles’ FGWidget LED controller. I’ve actually got all the work done and the board hooked up, I was just in the planning stages for LED placement and wondered if this would work better with one LED per button, or two. I just don’t like the uneven lighting that one provides.
You could do 2 LEDs for each button, one on either side. Wire in parallel (I think).
Why are the wires in an NES cable so freakin’ flimsy?!?!?!?! Gah fit in the damn RJ-45 terminator, will you?! :looney:
HAHA, I had an annoying time with the NES cable too. Although it was probably just the RJ-45 plug i was using was a cheap pack-in with my crimp tool. I’ve had no problem with the Belkin RJ-45’s I’ve used since.
YES! Finally got Project Diva 2. I now need art for my TE now that I have this. I haven’t created a template in ages.
I hate you.
And by hate, I mean I’m jealous and angsty at your success over mine. cries on his Miku pillow
cough Ahem, moving on… two LEDs at opposite ends is working just fine. I wonder how these will look against etched plexi. Hopefully I’ll be finding out soon.
Zee etching, eet GLOWS.
sob Still need to get a plexi case from Art.
P.S., PM me if you get frustrated with the 3mm LEDs. In case you’re curious, the stick I had at Evo had one 3mm LED in each button. I hated it though because I was always afraid the LED would get in the way of the button.
For some reason, I’ve been having trouble uploading a video of me trying to so some combos on the Frankenstick. Because my wrist was at an uncomfortable angle to be in the shot, my executions was pretty bad, not that it is good with a pad to begin with. Well I’m testing out using photobucket for video. It was horribly compressed sadly.
http://vid730.photobucket.com/albums/ww301/rtdzign/Dpad_Hybrid/th_frankenpadDemo.jpg