Fact based answer: The kidney and NeoCD pad both have some sort of logic chip or microcontroller in them that require power to operate. The old style stick and home mahjong controller dont; the switches just connect the signal lines to ground (old stick) or to the appropriate bank select lines (mahjong controller).
Speculation based answer: Why do those controllers use logic when they don’t need to? I’m not 100% sure. I do know that normal way of wiring a Neo controller, with each signal connecting to ground, is only a subset of what the neo-geo protocol can do. From Razoola’s posts I’ve read and the MAME source code, the Neo controller actually acts a lot like a saturn controller; there are three bank select lines (2, 9, and 10 IIRC) that are actually controlled by the console. Depending on which are high or low, the controller sends 8 bits in parallel over the 8 signal lines (four directions and four buttons. The start and select appear to be dedicated to those signals and dont change based on the bank select lines). So the mahjong controller with send the first 8 bits when 2 is low, next 8 when 9 is low, and the rest when 10 is low. The irritating maze does similar, and I’m assuming sends X and Y analog values over two specific banks, but I don’t know in what order or what banks. The one twin stick neo game (kizuna encounter? I don’t remember) does the same over specific banks. The Neo also appears to use this bank select switching as a way to detect what controller is attached. That’s why lots of places list pin 9 as the ‘D’ button; if the console sets pin 9 as low for one of the banks, the bit for the real D button, #4, will go low, and will go back up as soon as the bank is changed. One of the bank select lines is connected to Select on the mahjong controller for the same reason, so the console knows there is a real mahjong controller attached.
The logic on the kidney and NeoCD pad is likely there to make sure it behaves properly if the console is actively checking and using the bank select lines; making sure it doesn’t try to send data to a game that expects a mahjong controller for instance. Since these games that require something other than the standard stick+4 buttons represent only a very small small set of the Neo titles, there hasn’t been any noticeable problem just wiring everything up directly like the old style stick does.
I’m having this same issue, with a RedOctane stick I’m helping a friend mod. I’m not too keen on using a drill/dremel to route the inside of the case either.
I finished doing the rj45 mod to the NES, SNES, and Saturn cables last night/this morning. Now I just need to update my MC Cthulhu to 2.0 I’m still on 1.3 and don’t have access to a PC right now! (browsing with PS3)
I desolder two sets of microswitches off two JLF pcbs. They seemed to be a bit worn out as when I tested them they would only register being pressed when they are pressed in all the way as opposed to when they first make the clicking sound. So I opened them up and blew on them. I closed them back up and retested them and they all registered on click like they are suppose to do.
My theory is that little plastic particles gradually made their way inside the microswitch and caused interference between the physical contacts inside.
I believe somebody over here has figured out a good spring combination to get the JLW to feel like (or close to) a Happ. I think it might have been spenzalii, but I’m not sure.
I am a first timer and got some question and was thinking out loud. Do you need a special pcb or will any Xbox or PS3 controller work? Just want to now that because I already have the case and now I just need the rest.
Thnx for reading and sorry if I post it in the wrong thread.
Hey guys, I have a little scenario. Well last night in the middle of gaming, my TV shut off; it wouldn’t turn back on. So I just went to sleep and called it a night, thinking it may come back on the next day. Well I woke up, and it still wouldn’t turn on. So I read somewhere that if I reset the TV by unplugging it for 4 hours, it should be back to normal. Well I did as he said, and when I plugged it back it, I started hearing this electrical fuzzy sound, so I got nervous and unplugged it. What was that sound, and what do I do?
thinking out loud and i need some others to listen. When dual modding a te with a Chimp and a pad hack the home, start, and select from the pad still need a wire to the chimp correct? i know all directionals and buttons and what not do but i have a slight bit of doubt in my mind and wanted to be reassured. Its appreciated.
The more I work on this VAS-HG, the more I realize making your wiring neat is a royal PITA. Had I just let the wires fall where they may I could have been done. But going for a clean look, even with 30 gauge wire, is extremely time consuming. I almost have half a mind to pay someone to finish this. But dad didn’t raise a quitter…
Let me tell you: wiring up a wireless dual mod in this case is a challenge because the space is rather tight. 30 gauge is almost a must…
Instead of fighting with flex sleeving (which I don’t ever seem to have enough on), I decided to use the skills I had doing my daughters hair and braiding the wires together. Not too bad. Until I realized I cut some of the wires too short to reach the solder points on the PCB. So now I either have to unbraid the wires, replace the shorter ones with longer wires, and braid it all over again, or turn the buttons 180 degrees and run the braid harness the opposite way, which should give me enough room to work with (probably more wire than I need as well, which I can unbraid and cut if necessary).
My paewang wiring is atrocious. I ran wire from the pcb to a strip and then wires from the strip to my buttons and joystick. I should have just gone straight from pcb to switches. I also bought a 100 pack of cable ties. If I ever have a reason to open her up I am going to do some cleaning up but for now, it is all dirt swept under the rug.