A friend of mine had a 50+ WEGA and it took a moving crew of 7 to move that thing.
:lol:
Our 36āā CRT takes two people. I keep a 27āā on my desk that hurts my back to rotate between horizontal and vertical. I have to really want to play a game to change it. Itās stuck in the vertical position about 90% of the time for shmups.
Iām getting to the point where I want to try something new. I have a dozen or so sticks and I donāt want to feel like Iām actually collecting the things. So far Iāve tried (excluding knock-offs and cheap sticks):
iL (Happ) Competition/Super
JLF
ASCII Optical
LS-32
LS-40 coming today
LS-56
I want to get an older Wico P360 but I havenāt managed to snag one. I also wanted to try a Suzo stick but no one makes cases that fit them. Iād also take a PS2 Saulabi stick if I could find one at a decent price.
Had an extended play session yesterday with the PS-14-Gs and they are starting to grow on me.
This made me lol.
I was just on a conf call at work (outage) and ignoring my 2-year-old behind me. I turned around to find him dunking a red PS-14-K into a bowl of thick sugary milk left over from Fruit Loops. Heād also spooned some onto my TvC stick.
HAPPY TIMES
So I have an electrical problem with my SE. I recently tossed a PS1 analog pcb in it and the SEās freaked out. When I press two buttons (say, jab and strong) and a diagonal, start and select activate and the diagonal deactivates. Then, when I press three (same two, but hitting short as my third) plus a diagonal, fierce activates with it. Any more and everything activates. I looked through all of my wiring and found nothing different that Iāve done on my first two dual-mods. I figured that I was fucked.
So I continue fucking with the inputs and watching the lights activate for no reason and I try the PS2 side of it with a PS3 converter. Everything works just the way it should and I go to try the SE part of it. This time, it works the way it should. I take the converter off and hit up FBA to playtest it before using it for anything else. The same problem as before. I rethink it and notice the only difference is the converter, so I put it back on and try again. Problem solved.
Iām just leaving this here for anyone that experiences the same issue. I found a fix and Iām content with that.
At the very least my dadās is. That said, it takes two people to move it slightly (including the matching base table) whenever we have to access stuff in the back.
No luck in the SF anniversary thread, so I figured Iād repost my question here. I just modded my stick with happ parts, and one of my buttons makes a really loud echoing sound whenever it is pressed during gameplay. The other 7 buttons make a similar sound if you listen closely for it, but this one is super loud. Is this common with new happ buttons and will it go away over time, or is the button maybe defective? So far it seems to work ok.
so my order from akihabara shop came today. i ordered some ps-14g buttons to replace the ps-14gn buttons i sold, some seimitsu pearl buttons, one ls-32 round gate, ls-33, ls-55-01, ls-56 shaft and an ls-55 spring, seimitsu octagonal gate, and some other stuff.
first up, the ls-32 with the round gate is awesome. i <3 non square gates.
as for my the seimitsu pearl, iāll say theyāre mid tier. it feels ultra smooth, like a cross between a sanwa obsf/obsn and a seimitsu ps-14. my main gripe is that the buttons are noticeably smaller than the sanwa obsf/n. even though theyāre 30mm buttons, the plunger takes up quite a lot of room.
next is the ls-55 with an octagonal gate. its a pretty solid stick. it feels like a cross between the jlf with octagonal gate and an ls-32. it has the large throw from the jlf octagonal and the stiffness of the ls-32. it feels pretty sturdy.
las but not least is the ls-33. from what i read at slagcoin.com, the ls-56 shaft is compatible with the ls-33 as the stock shaft is too low to be mounted on most arcade sticks. however, i was having problems putting the ls-56 shaft on the ls-33 as it grinds the metal washer. it turns out that you need to put on the shaft cover in order for the shaft to work correctly in the ls-33, which akihabarashop forgot. having no other choice, i took the shaft cover from my used ls-56 and put in on the new ls-56 shaft and then start to put the ls-33 together. it worked like a charm. i was doing vipers fff on my first try which normally takes me 2 to 3 tries to get. the spring was loose but not as bad as people made it out to be. imo, sanwa springs tend to be looser. nevertheless, i replaced the ls-33 spring with an ls-55 spring and it works perfect. definitely my second favorite stick at the moment.
I changed the artwork for my customā¦ again.
Random thought: would it be possibly to mod the WiiShaft with quality arcade parts for TVC?
Iāve got to get used to Seimitsu or Sanwa buttons and sticks at some point. My latest work in progress is using a JLW with happ buttons (Iām used to the tension of a competition and I havenāt been able to convince myself I donāt need the clicky, tactile fee of a cherry switch under the buttons yet). I wonder if itās worth getting a TE or SE and tossing a JLW inside for practice. At least changing the art woud be a snap. I donāt think I want to put custom money behind something I may or may not like. But who knowsā¦
I really would like to use a joytick on my PSP =[ So many greater fighters, and the only option is a shitty analog and āokā d-pad!
homebrewers should make an app for joystick detectionā¦!!
Broke the nozzle on a full can of laquer 
Well if you had a PSP Go, you could padhack a Sixaxis and use it with that.
Actually, has anyone very tried to āpadhackā a PSP and put it inside a stick case?
Can you really? PS3 Sixaxis works with PSP GO? :] I guess ill hold out until it has CFW/homebrew/backup playable capabilitiesā¦
I wish somebody had a flash dust washer for me.
I hate to post advice on stuff I havenāt tried yet, but you might be interested in these:
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/OBS-30A.jpg
Sanwa OBS-30A
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/OBS-30B.jpg
Sanwa OBS-30B
I was planning on picking up some in my next akihabarashop order just for kicks, to try them out and post some impressions. You can get the OBS-M-1 switch separately if you already have OBSN- or OBSF-30s, as they appear to be identical button housings with a different type of switch attached. It also looks like you can swap in Cherry switches if the Omrons it comes with feel too stiff. I recall a post from Per some years back saying he really liked them stock, though.
You can find them at akihabarashop.jp under Arcade > Buttons > Special.
Just based on looking at these, I think theyād be pretty nice for a Cherry-style microswitch button. The plunger is relatively short and appears to be centered directly over the switch actuator (unlike Happs), so it should have a pretty direct feel. No way for me to tell how stiff the spring in there is, or if there even is one besides whatever is in the Omron switch. Maybe someone else here has tried these.
[Note for TEs: I doubt these can fit without cutting up the center plate inside the TE housing.]
The Microswitches are riveted in the thing.
So it really hard to remove.
TheRealNeoGeo couldnāt remove it.
Bummer!
I was wondering if this was a good alternative to buying and modding a PS3 stick or modding my Xbox stick, as I have to attend the FR tournament and the onlyl PS3 stick I have is a T6 one, and no PS2 stick.