Happy Birthday jdm714!
Random, I’d like to say.
My newest stick I worked on is my favorite.
Happy Birthday jdm714
i just got a LS-40 and wow, i liked a lot, way better than a JLF at least for me since i tend to slam the joystick the shorter throw help a bit and doesn’t hop like the LS-32… Seimitsu FTW!
Happy birthday jdm! You’ve been an excellent help to the community so far~ <3
Once again, Happy Birthday to jdm714, though by now it’s a day late! :lol:
So I finally decided to get off my lazy ass and do the test that people have been looking for of the ASCII vs. Sanwa optical joysticks. Problem is, I’m not sure how to go about doing this exactly. I figure if I figure out the engage angle, that should suffice, but what would I do with it? Put a protractor behind the joystick and measure the angle by eye? It’s rough.
Secondly, I’m having a damn hard time deciding between the Neutrik RJ-45 port or just the NAUSB port for my first custom. I know, common sense tells me to just get the Neutrik NAUSB port, but I really want to have a secure cable. I know Neutrik has those NKUSB plugs, but I can’t find those at all in the USA and they don’t come in black. I’m pretty stumped here.
so. was at my local hardware store looking at Krylon Fusion colors (yea yea, they didn’t have vinyl dye lol) to paint my DS3 and SE stick when I saw Krylon Chrome Aluminum.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41SjqZRNbML.SL500_AA300.jpg
I didn’t buy it since it probably wouldn’t adhere too well, but it did give me a ridiculous idea: I want to make a chrome fightstick. everything chrome. buttons, balltop, surface, sides, everything. i’ll test on some stock madcatz parts and stock mayflash parts just to see how things work out lol. maybe even make a chrome DS3
I feel ya. Most of my multi console sticks have both. And it’s really convenient going USB-B out, secure it definetly isn’t.
However, my Voltech will be Neutrik RJ-45 only, going for a cleaner look (not to mention the Neutrik terminations are just too awesome not to use all the time [nice satisfying “click”]). So all my connections will be rock solid. I currently have 1-15ft USB Neutrik boot cable. I’ve since ordered 2 more 6-ft USB cables and boots. 1 will stay attached to my PC at home. The other will stay in my backpack (I bust out 3rd strike at work sometimes). Total costs for these 2 cables extra is only $15. The clear cables from Monoprice work nicely since they’re a little fatter and look pimp. 
would it be worth it to pick up one of those Blaze Twin Arcade Sticks? A guy locally has one up for sale for $40, could probably get him to drop down a bit on price.
http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/BLAZE-ARCADE-STICK-for-Playstation-1_12215578
figured it might be something interesting to play with, I wouldn’t melt it in half though!
I just talked to Jesse about my VAS-Elite case. He e-mailed me some pics. Oh my… d3v, you have your work cut out for you to make the art live up to this case.
The only problem I have now is I’m not sure I still want to use this JLW I have. It’s right in the middle of the JLF and the happ competition feel and tension wise, but I’m not sure that’s a good thing. And after playing with the TE that I modded for a friend a while back, I realized it’s not that bad. Do I mod the spring in a JLF? Try an LS-32? I know the LS40 will get no play (same stick in my Capcom Power Stick), and I’m not sure on that LS-56. Decisions, decisions…
Now just wait til you see how solid the thing feels.
I say try a jlf with an ls-33 spring added to the jlf spring.
Challenge accepted.
Could anybody tell me the exact name of this cord?
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5204/usbto5pinconnectorhorie.png
It it used for HRAP Fight Sticks (Xbox 360)
It is from my EX-SE
I need to just BUY the cord.
No way I’m buying a whole new controller.
Out of all these websites that promote “make your own controller”
NONE of them have the actually power cord?
LOLWUT
You can’t buy those anywhere.
Because you will only find them in HRAP.
It is that connector that makes it the problem of not finding.
Not every USB item uses that connector.
If you’re cool; are you cool?
You would just use any USB cable.
Solder the wires directly to your HRAP PCB.
Same as what spektrum mentioned.
No use of the connector.
But you cannot solder. :sad:
Unless you can find that specific connector and crimp on 2mm contacts yourself.
But Toodles wasn’t able to find the connector for you.
edit: jdm714 answered it
I’m waiting for him to respond…I don’t know him personally so I just don’t want to send 10-15 bucks even though that is chump change…still might snake me >_>…but hey I’ll take the risk…I’m just waiting for him to get on-line and give me a date where I can send him the money …i missed out last saturday…i’ll see how much a soldering kit is i might just have to do that…ill learn through tutorials
thanks a bunch…guess i only have 2 options
edit: oh and if i do solder…basically… ill have to solder each wire (red green white black black) to the 5 male pins on the board?
would it matter which color wire is melted to the board?
and basically soldering wit make the wires and the 5 pins on the board melt together?
Remember. A Jedi must be able to fix their own lightsaber :D.
You only need one of the black wires.
The thin black is the one need.
Thick is Shield Ground.
No need that.
You can solder to the five pins if you want.
But that is not cool.
Better to desolder the header on PCB.
Then solder the wires to the holes.
Cannot just solder the Red, Green, White, Black to anything.
You have to solder those wires to where they were originally.
Red is +5V.
White is Data-.
Green is Data+.
Black is Ground.
Arduino can kiss my ass. Unless you’re writing something that requires constant chatter with a PC, then maybe it’ll be ok. Or as a playskool version to teach a basic skillset to see if you’re the kind of person that’d want to learn how to do this shiznit. But for embedded development, oh hell nah. AVR Dragon, DebugWire connections, AVR Studio, just freaking awesome. So much easier to do a proper debug instead of tons of printed lines, no need to bother with bullshit Arduino pin numbers that dont have shit to do with what the pins are actually called, using standard libraries instead of arduino only ones, no bullshit playskool IDE that takes years to load and doesn’t give me proper edit controls, my own damn choice of what frequency to run at, etc etc etc.
Maybe it’s done well for the DIY community, but I’ve outgrown it, and won’t be looking back.
Having trouble with a HRAP3 that I just dual-modded with a MC4716+Imp. 360 side works alright, aside from having to keep reloading the driver every time I hook it to a pc (360 just RROD’ed too, so I can’t test on a console until I get that fixed). What’s bugging me though, is that turbo is constantly active on the ps3 side, and it’s preventing L1 from properly working during a game unless turbo is toggled on or I come out of the guide or menu. I’ve removed the signal and ground from the 360 pcb before testing this, so I know the problem is somewhere within the HRAP3 pcb. How do I completely disable the button? Shaving off the signal contact on the turbo button didn’t help. Would shaving off the ground contact interrupt the ground for the rest of the pcb?
On a non-related note, another MC4716 (2010 model) I was padhacking had some hot glue come loose and rip off the signal contact on the pcb. Is there anywhere else I can tap into to make the guide button work, or am I pretty much screwed in that respect?
(oh, and happy belated birthday, jdm :party:)
I’d try to help, but your avatar keeps distracting me from reading your post. :razz:
yay! finally got everything i need to complete my custom, expect some pics this weekend… 