modding my hrap ex se
this stick is a pain in the ass to take out the stock ls-32. i stripped the two bolts trying to take it out. luckily, my dremel saved the day.
which brings me to the mounting plate for the sanwa jlf/ls-55. the holes for the mounting plate are not threaded!
after spending a while trying to thread the holes in the mounting bracket, i finally got it threaded. now, i’m wondering which stick should i use? ls-55 or sanwa jlf?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Original-PINK-Sega-Saturn-USB-Controller-Pad-PS3-NEW-/120572323531?cmd=ViewItem&pt=PCA_Joysticks_Game_Controllers&hash=item1c12aba6cb
way too rich for my blood, but damn is that hot!
I fucking hate that shit!! I had to take the mounting plate straight off my ls-32 and put it on my ls-40 just to mount the damn thing in an HRAP2SA
programming 50 atmega8 microcontroller chips for the Dual Strike SMD boards is teadious… I wonder how long it takes Toodles to program all those PICs for the cthulhu and chimps.
Once I finish up my SE mod, my tick will be completely opposite of that of my arcade. My stick uses a sanwa balltop stick on an octogate, while my arcade has happ bat top sticks on a square gate. I’ll be using Semitsu buttons (Would have gotten Sanwas, but the PS-14-KN is worth every extra penny to put my custom art in them), while my arcade uses Sanwa buttons. Also, the SE has the curved button layout, while they are straight in the arcade. It’s going to be interesting flip-flopping back and forth between MvC2 versions…
Just got word that Toshin bought himself a nice Foe Hammer stick with some nice art.
http://foe-hammer.com/gallery/ibuki/ibuki1.jpg
What caught my is that apparently, the little IBUKI logo that I made some months back made it into the stick (albeit slightly modified). Nice to see that little bit of art get some mileage.
Just got word that Toshin bought himself a Foe Hammer stick with some nice art.
http://foe-hammer.com/gallery/ibuki/ibuki1.jpg
What caught my is that apparently, the little IBUKI logo that I made some months back made it into the stick (albeit slightly modified). Nice to see that little bit of art get some mileage.
Little bit gimmicky imo, and that kinda cash would get you an original full size cab.
Makes me wonder if anyone’s ever incorporated a screen and arcade guts into a single stick
I was thinking in doing something similar but focused on vertical shmups, using the guts and the screen of an old netbook (eee 701)
It’s doubtful the netbook screen would do you any good. I’ve never seen a laptop type LCD screen that wasn’t addressed digitally, meaning you’d have to design your own analog-to-digital video interface for whatever you wanted to display on the screen (read: nightmare). Way more hackable would be an official Sony PSOne LCD screen. Native low rez analog RGB support, built in brightness control, etc., so most of your arcade PCB’s should work perfectly.
-ud
In case anyone cares:
http://phx.corporate-ir.net/phoenix.zhtml?c=69024&p=irol-newsArticle&ID=1433403&highlight=
I found the secret to making bubbletops!
[media=youtube]bgC-ocnTTto[/media]
^ How’d he do that? In space? I think I’m going to just pay for a bubbletop instead of going all mad scientist. It already takes enough skills to build/mod a stick. XD
EDIT: Saw the title… Microgravity. Hmmm. I know Seimitsu is prolly packing some special microgravity headquarters specifically for making bubbletops. Or maybe we should just call How it’s made to infiltrate them and find the secret of the bubbletops…
Hopefully this is the first of many contracts like this.
I got my hands on my brother’s old Capcom Power Stick, the original El Kabong. I’ve got to figure out how I want to mod it. Taking it apart, two things struck me. First, teh stick sucks. It looks like a LS-40 knock off, and very well may be. The JLW would not fit (the mounting holes don’t line up). I took the uber wimpy spring out and used a less wimpy JLW spring, which feels better. As for the buttons, they look like the same switches you find in a 24mm sanwa or seimitsu, just soldered to the PCB with the plunger resting on top much like a contact button. I could go thru the trouble of widening the holes to add genuine sanwa or seimitsu buttons, but i don’t know if it’s worth it.
In reality, for what it is the stick wasn’t that bad. I just need to figure out whether to toss a axisadaptor or leo in there or a chimp. That and how to utilize the LEDs on the board…
Wait, I thought that the Capcom Power Stick had what was for all intents and purposes a JLW.
I think it depends on what region it was made for, or when it was manufactured. The stick I pulled out most definitely was not a JLW, and the JLW that I have for my other project would not fit at all.
What was funny was seeing the wiring harness for the joystick. Didn’t really expect them to do that
That’s is right.
Some of the Capcom Power Stick has unbranded LS-40.