lol nice name for the new board. My main interests would be a small size board,a good button hole layout with labels, no need to trigger hack the L and R buttons, and LS/DP/RS support. A plus+minus=home would be good too. And if you still manage to have free pins left and don’t know what else to do with them, then let them hook up to the LS/DP/RS switch on the TE/SE so that you don’t have to do any holding down a button setup to switch between the joystick mode.
Hopefully pricing will be cheap enough so that your board + sourcing a cord would at most be the same cost as buying a wii classic controller.
One thing I wonder if its possible, but would you be able to get the player number info from the wiimote? In the triple wireless mod I did in a TE, I did make the xbox leds and turbo leds light up to rep which player number you were for 360 and xbox. For the wii, I just made the entire bottom row turbo leds turn on when the wiimote was connected and turned on. Would just be a nice extra feature to tell which player number you were for wii, but I’m sure it isn’t possible without me having to also put the wiimote in the mod.
Yup, at least without screw terminals. Screw terminals cover up the labels. Can’t have both uber small size + screw terminals + labels.
Err, hmm. Not yet, but should be possible. I have four or five pins currently unused; they don’t go out to through holes, but could be tapped by soldering a wire to the bottom of the IC socket easy enough.
I’ve been thinking about that, but frankly I’m kinda scared to. An Imp or a Chimp or a PS3 Cthulhu+ all can drop the home line low if start+select are pressed. But I could easily add it and a button combination to save the mode in the eeprom. (1: Normal guide button exists 2: Ignore the Home line and just activate Wii home when start+select are pressed 3: pull Home low when start+select are pressed)
Could be done but would require soldering underneath some IC socket pins to connect the RS and LS lines. I’d also need some way to detect (either another one of those underneath pins shorted to ground, or a button combination on power up) when to use the RS and LS instead of the stick mode that’s saved in eeprom.
I’m shooting for a $15 price point, less in bulk naturally.
To the best of my knowledge, nope. As far as the accessory is concerned, there is only the wiimote its connected to, and the wiimote doesn’t give the accessory crap for information. Just “here’s the encryption to use. Now gimme my data.”
EDIT: I should mention one perk that may not be obvious; the reset pin. If you have logic on your board to detect or determine which system console to use, just pull the reset pin low, and the piiwee won’t be pulling any current
Oh yeah, if screw terminals could be optional that would be great. Not to big a fan of them because of the amount of space they consume (height wise and covering labels).
Some sort of switching between dpad and left analog stick is needed. Think you mentioned it before that it could be done by holding a certain button combination while plugging in the stick? Being able to do it using the TE’s LS/DP/RS switch would just be icing on the cake even it it means extra work for the person using the board.
The only reason I personally would like the start+select=home ability is if I were to do a triple wireless in a stick that doesn’t have a home button. Since no cthulhu,chimp, or imp is used in the wireless mod, I would have to wire up a circuit to do this function. I guess the only other scenarios would be if your wii board isn’t used with your other boards like a 360/wii only dual mod.
price is good.
I figured as much for the player number info. No big deal, was just curious if possible.
so i went to home depot and looked at the compression springs in the hardware isle and nothing seemed close to the JFL. it was either too small,too big, or way too stiff. is there another section i should be looking in?
The more I try to picture the math, the more my brain cries out in pain. In order to get a hopefully perfect distribution, how big should the circle in a circular JLF restrictor be? Does the octagonal provide an even distribution, with just as much ‘up’ perimeter as ‘up/right’ perimeter?
Watching ECT, the most hype thing for me (outside of Inthul’s top tier Pad Long) was seeing Rico’s stick being used since the art is basically a modification of one of my templates.
Okay, so just an FYI for those doing mods on TE-S’s.
There are 2 grounds in that board, K GND and GND. K GND runs to the buttons the lockout switch affects, and is connected/disconnected to regular GND depending on the lockout’s position (unlock = connected, lock = disconnected). Just in case anyone’s come across that, it’s something to be aware of. They changed the PCB slightly ONLY (as far as I can tell) to allow for the lockout option, everything else seems identical.
In other words, when doing mods on those sticks, use the standard GND spots (USB line, other spots labeled GND, etc…), because if you connect your ground signal to K GND, it will only work if your lockout switch is in the “unlock” position.
Also, they changed the header spot placement…but just enough to screw me, fml. This means 2 board versions for me…hoo-freakin-ray. Now to see if the board house can panelize 2 designs in 1 order to make it cost effective, crossin my fingers in anticipation.
I’m posting to explain why Bob the Builder is a great dude.
I made the mistake of losing my usb connector at the end of the 360 TE cable b4 ECT2 singles started and was very upset with myself. My Philly crew felt for me, as I had no idea what the hell to do about that in the long run (can’t borrow sticks at home). After asking the TO’s about it and nobody had turned it in, I asked Bob the Builder how I can replace it. He instantly pulled one out of his bag and handed it to me. I asked him if this was turned in, he said no it’s an extra one he had. That made my day, b4 the tourney even started. I asked how much, and he said don’t worry about it! He wouldn’t accept any money!
Furthermore, he actually dual-modded my stick in the fall, but I mailed it to him so he didn’t even know he was hooking up a customer. I’m just some guy he doesn’t know who lost his connector like an idiot, and he gives me a new one! The mod is perfect btw and studs like Sanford, Andre, Rahsaan, Chaos, and Skye have used it with success and without complaint. Bob the Builder is awesome. thx for reading
Can anyone recall who was it that modded that TE for Rico Suave that used using art based on one of my templates? I need to give the dude mad props again.
I really hate working on MAS and AIAB sticks. If 'I’m not mistaken they must of been made by the same people? Its like they wired up their sticks so future fixes/mods are a pain in the butt.
so i won a used tekken 5 anniversary arcade stick on ebay lately.
i think i’m gonna leave the hori stick stock but i replaced the square gate with a sanwa octagonal one.
as for the artwork, its fading already, but i’m planning to put carbon fiber vinyl around it.
now i’m trying to think which buttons should i get? sanwa obsf/n, ps-14-g, or ps-14-kn?
they all have their drawbacks and their advantages.
sanwas:
advantage - smoothest of the 3, easy to mash, wide range of color
disadvantage - can be too oversensitive at times and i already have two sticks with sanwa buttons
seimitsu ps-14-g
advantage - smooth, easy to mash
disadvantage - small range of colors to chose from, loudest of the 3, comes in snap ins only (ps-14-gns are not the same thing)
seimitsu ps-14-kn
advantage - looks
disadvantage - expensive, not as smooth as the other 2
LOL at HORI wiring. When I modded my HRAP3. For some reason, up+right stopped registering. However, after un-plugging and re-plugging the wiring harness, it worked great. Never figured out why it stopped working in the first place and it’s never done that again ever since.
I stopped reading right there Ouroborus. Hands down, you want and will not be disappointed with the PS-14-G buttons. They’re my absolute favorite buttons of all time. Flat topped, huge surface area for your fingers to depress, nice, clicky sound feedback, and they’re just sturdy. :bgrin:
