Yeah it’s pretty much hell outside of Manila. I wonder though, maybe us over here should try selling parts to arcades out of the metro.
So, have there been any new developments with super guns? As in can I plug one into an HDTV with no lag? I am really out of the loop but something like that would be awesome.
Well, superguns are about as complex as custom joysticks. It’s just a box of whatever you decide to put inside, so I have a hard time saying they advance, really. As far ways to interface a supergun with your HD TV, it kinda depends on your TV, really. If your TV can handle VGA inputs (and when I say handle, I don’t mean it just has the interface, I mean it also displays in the proper aspect ratio w/o trying to stretch pixels and such nonsense), the XRGB-2plus is probably your best bet (B1 mode is < 1 frame lag). It’s also nice for upscaling your old game consoles like Saturn, Genesis, SNES, etc., pixel for pixel.
XRGB-3 is also an option which has more accommodating outputs (component, DVI, etc. and at higher resolutions) but it has some scaling issues with some content, so I’m leaning toward the XRGB-2plus (simpler, cheaper, gets the job done).
-ud
I was bored today, so I decided to get working on my son’s arcade stick. A Tekken 5 stick with JLF and OBSF-30s, 6 light blue, 2 black/blue. 2 black 24mm for Select/Start and a light blue meshball top.
I just finished soldering wires/quick disconnects and a JLF wiring harness onto the T5 Stick PCB. I grinded the tabs on the button holes and drilled 4 holes into the restrictor gate of the JLF to put the new parts into it.
This mod wasn’t nearly as complicated as I thought it’d be. Grinding the tabs was the most tedious part, but was all of 10 minutes with a Dremel.
Now to order the black plexi to finish it up!
I recommend using Art for the Plexi, his work is great, and it comes in fast.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=201537&p=8609848&viewfull=1#post8609848
That’s a mod I did recently including a panel I got from him.
So I sit down and assemble a surface mount chimp. 18 different resistors, size 0402, which translates to roughly a 1 mm long x 1/2 mm wide piece, about the size of a grain of salt. Get those all on, get the capacitors and chips and screw terminals and USB jack on, and find out that NONE of the vias have the little metal tube stuck in them, the ones that connect the top layer to the bottom layer…Grrrrrrr… Gee, BatchPCB, didya think the matchin top and bottom copper spots and drill holes MIGHT be for some reason? There aren’t any in the screw terminal holes either, so I have no idea exactly how screwed I am with this board. I might be able to salvage some use, may not. The mid board vias shouldn’t be too big of a deal; I think I can reroute most of it with a few thin wires, but if the screw terminals aren’t making contact to the top copper, then the board might as well be scrapped and this whole prototype batch was a big ole’ fail.
I am thinking of picking up one of those Wico NOS microswitch sticks that lizardlick has in stock. The only problem is that I don’t have a case to put it in.
0402’s by hand? You are a madman! 0603 ain’t a bad hand soldering alternative to 0805’s, but 0402’s are just going to make you want to give up. Did you try e-mailing BatchPCB and see if there’s some sort of switch in their software to put barrels inside the vias? I’ve never used their services/software, but that seems pretty ridiculous. As far as getting the screw terminals connectivity under the plastic, you might be able to solder a piece of bare kaynar wire to the top via (not filling the hole, but just tacked to one side of the ring), run it down through the hole, and then after inserting the connector, solder both the other end of the wire and the post of the screw terminal to the bottom via ring. Time consuming, but should work.
-ud
Ya know, it actually wasn’t that bad. I did order some 0603’s to see how well they’d fit on the same pad, but it won’t break my heart if I have to stick to 0402’s. Getting control of them with the tweezers was the hard part, and the two surface mount can capacitors gave me more trouble.
As for the boards, they’re scrap. I hid half of the via’s under the two chips, so there was no getting to them, and I dont feel like doin the rework and assembly on another known bad board. I placed an order for 5 pieces from the same place I’d be ordering them in large numbers, so it’ll be much more representative of the final product when they get here.
And there was a large space on the bottom, and I figured out how to do a bottom copper text and the same text in the bottom soldermask ‘stop’ section, so these will have ‘Don’t Panic’ written on the bottom in silver 
that’s awesome, I’m still fairly new to the board layout game, but it’s nice to know that you can get creative with the solder mask. Currently I’m just putting my board label as the standard silk screen, may change that when it comes to production, haha.
0402’s can be a gigantic pain in the ass until you really get the feel for them, but personally i’d still go with 0603…but I don’t have a magnifying glass at home
Sorry to hear about batchpcb, I’m trying to lock down my prototypes this week and send them out. I’ve debated for a few days where to send them, and I think after reading that…I’m going to send them to a place that charges a little bit more (and I need to turn all my drill holes to plated ones for some reason, oh well). pcbfabexpress is the place, and they offer a 10 day turn around at a decent price for 5 boards. I’m not sure where you use, but I’m thinking of using EZPcb for production though, it’s pretty cheap for volume orders from what I can tell. They also don’t charge extra for non-plated drill holes
Toodles is a hoopy frood who really knows where his towel is.
Indeed he is. I was trying to think of something useful to put there, like the ‘white = D-, green = D+’ I have on the top silkscreen. I was thinking the golden rules of dual mods, but it was a big large, and “Don’t Panic” felt like the most helpful thing I could put there.
Goodbye Horis, hello Seimitsus.
Finally swapped the last 2 Horis of my HRAP3 with PS-14-KNs. I also replaced the Select/Start button with OBSN-24s. On hindsight though, I should’ve gotten PS-14-D-Ns instead so I’d have full Seimitsu buttons.
So, I want to swap out my JLF for my LS-40, I do need to buy an S-plate, right?
Depends what you’re installing your LS-40 into. You can forget about it entirely if it’s something like a Hori Real Arcade Pro 3 (3 SA is fine though). However, since the LS-40 does sit a lot taller than a regular JLF, I think using the regular flat mounting plate should give you the proper height, no? It might be better to ask this sort of question in the Sanwa/Seimitsu Parts FAQ though. I’m sure someone or more likely jdm714 can jump in with the information you need.
Oh my bad, would probably help if I told you what stick it was, it’s a TE.
And thanks, I totally forgot about that thread.
I want a joystick thats:
Battop
Glossy in finish
Silent (no clicking microswitches)
Not leafswitch
Circular in restriction
Not extremely tight/loose
Affordable.
They don’t make that, do they? I almost got this in Korean parts but they either click or are leafswitch (which isn’t as bad as this post may imply).
waiting, in hopes somebody would make a easy to follow tut on how to do xbox1, saturn, nes, snes, rj45 detachable cables…
Closest thing would be an optical stick.