Here’s an idea, how about a stick/case that basically just big enough for a JLF and a couple of small buttons? Heck, maybe give it just one button and make it work for an Atari 2600.
Toying around with the idea of getting an electroluminescent panel for the next project. Only problem is figuring out how to power and wire an A4 sized inverter. I’m guessing I could run it off a higher voltage lipo battery, but not sure how to recharge it, short of removing it from the case. Getting the art sorted out is secondary at this point.
If you’re using a lipo for model planes or airsoft guns, they usually have a charging wire danglnig that you can have coming out of the case to connect it to the balancer/charger.
That’s exactly what I was thining about. If I got, say, a 11.1 volt lipo, wire it to a switch with a charge lead that could do. I need to read up on how much voltage the inverter would need. If it can be done with a 9v it would be easier and cheaper (though not as elegant, I suppose). I don’t think I would worry about balancing that lipo, since it would have a relatively low current draw. I actually have a 14.8v lipo I use for the starter box in my r/c car that I haven’t charged in 2 seasons, and it still works fine. But that’s another hobby for another board…
I just don’t like the idea of wires sticking out of the case, so I’d have to figure out the best way to mount up a charge jack. I"ll have to run some things past Voltech and see what he can do with that case of his.
I’m about ready to just say fuck it and make my one mega project box for use of an SNES pad on my old systems. SNES pad perfection on Neo/3DO/TG16/Jaguar/CD-i/CD32/PC-FX(if I can ever find one of these). Just show it all into a huge beast of a project box with a long ass cable from the SNES pad to the box and then just all the cables coming out the back with some sort of selection switch to change systems. Shove it in my classic system entertainment system and have it look like just another ugly console from 1993.
You won’t regret it. I did something similar with some Saturn pads connected to db15 cables/project boxes. It’s absurb and fun as hell to use a Saturn pad on a NES.
I dunno, having experienced a lipo go bad due to bad charging, I’d say a balancer is always an important requirement. Personally, I’d crack open the charger/balancer and them mount that in the casing in a way that you can plug the adaptor in from outside (and wireup the led indicators so that you can see them from outside as well).
Hmmm. I planned on buying either a balancer or a charger with a built in balancer sometime this year for my r/c batteries, so I wouldn’t necessariy need to buy a separate one to charge the EL sheet battery. That said, I’d need to figure out how to mount the charging plug and balancing plug. I could make a bracket out of wood or styrene and attach it to the side of the case, and notch the plexi bottom so I could get to the plugs.
I may need to rethink some things once I get this case. 2 pcbs, LEDs, 2 batteries, an inverter, and a few switches (or a separate board in lieu of the switches, depending on the timing) could be a bit tight.
Anyone know off hand what the screw size is of those little black screws that madcatz has in every single one of their fightpad/fightsticks? I don’t think they’re #4, but I want to make sure. Also, what length are they?
Jdm: realized you sent me some messages and my PM box was full, it’s cleared out now. >.<
The combination balancer and chager is what I’m talking about (I use a small one to charge the battery of my gun). As for the PCB, you could save space by getting a Joytron PCB from laugh.
The Joytron would work if I were going wired, but I’m thinking wireless like my other 2 works. I’m still debating going with the joytron for my other friend’s stick, since he wants a p360 in his. Since it will be going in a QCF case, I could use the extra space. But would the cost and time to ship it to the US be worth it? Hard to say. Good think Satek hasn’t finished the case yet, so I have time to decide.
I’m really starting to wonder if a backlit panel and LEDs would be overkill though. If that ‘master switch’ board comes to fruition, it would make some things a bit simpler, but that would still be a lot going on in one case.
Ha great minds think alike!
I did the same thing a long long time ago in my public speaking class. I brought a happ joystick, a few pushbuttons and drew the wiring diagram on how a controller pcb was rerouted to the buttons.
I actually brought this ugly mother fucker in. Missing are the two army belts used for strapping in the control panel to the speakerbox.
Yeah I know the layout is fucking retarded, but it worked for the Saturn.