Thinking out loud:
Dear god the Fundamentals of Engineering is gonna hurt. 8 hours, no notes, all pain.
Whatâs this FE test you speak of? 
<â EE
Called the EIT around these parts. Also, the reference book they give you should have all the notes you need!
Big surprise there!
Decent idea, but dearer than a 5c piece of metal :wonder:
Wouldnât surprise me either. I also wouldnât be surprised if we saw the return of proprietary connectors (i.e. the original X-Box where itâs a specially designed USB port).
So one of my work tables broke last night and took 3 of my finished cases along with it :S
Luckily I bought the wood in bulk so I got to stay up all night putting re-creating themâŚfml
I guess on the bright side there were a few small things I wanted to implement in these builds that I was now able to during the reconstruction.
Howâd the table break?
Cruddy support screws and too much weight on one corner=Fail
It was an old computer table from a yard sale that I used to store my extra cases while the finish cures.
Iâm really glad I graduated EE the year they stopped requiring that for graduation. I know all you need to do is take it, not actually pass it if thatâs any consolation.
Also, if youâre EE, Iâve been told that the first part (the general one) is a waste of time, but if you take the EE specific second part itâs hard as fuck.
Overall Iâve been told itâs a majority of ME related questions, and as a EE is a huge waste of time. Never took it myself, but I know if you ever plan on doing the whole PE status/test you need to take it, but I donât really plan on it.
Good luck either way though!
Donât know if anyone else has mentioned this, but Amazon has a free 3 month prime membership for moms, dads, and grandparents/guardians.
so i ordered a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Joystick from lizard lick. it comes with the metal plate on it. has anyone ever had issue of the damned screws stripping when you want to remove/replace that metal plate?
and its not that i wasnât extremely careful when i tried to remove the screws, but easy as shit, they stripped on me. now i dont know how im going to remove them.
they are damaged severely⌠i dont think a trick such as using a rubber band a bigger philip screwdriver will work with this one.
I just had the same problem with my last build. I tore the plate apart with my bare hands cause I was so frustrated. thank god Sanwa invested in a good mold. lol. the metal is fairly soft.
Power drill. Drill out the core of the screw, then obviously replace the screw.
You could also heat the screw with a soldering iron and apply a drop of solder into the screw head, effectively fusing the screwdriver with the screw. This sometimes works, but know that itâll degrade the quality of your screwdriver.
drilled out the core, i added screws when i ordered the jlf plexi mount so ill be good.
thx guys
You can also use superglue or epoxy instead of solder. Alternately you could epoxy a hex-head bolt to the screw.
I just got around to playing with the set of Transparent buttons from Ponyboy. I can sum it up in one word: Inconsistent.
I really want to give these a recommendation⌠but theres some quality inconsistency (one cracked my plexi)
I canât believe nobody said get the death wheel of a Dremel out. :sad: Thatâs my favorite way. 
:wow: just curious was it the housing actual size or some type of tab like what we shave off the sanwas before applying to plexi.
Housing. The tabs are barely there, so Iâm not concerned with it. One is small enough to freely spin in the 30mm hole (same color as the one thats too large :[ ). Iâm not even concerned with the batch I got⌠I just hope he irons it out for future batches. The arms (Is that what we want to call them? The things that hold the button in its socket) arenât the same size on any of the buttons.