ASCII Optical stick vs Sanwa Flash?

stuck on this mod

i’m at the next step in working on this mod. i’ve desoldered all the points on the buttons, thus i am able to remove the PCB (DC version). the only problem is that i’m able to take out the buttons, but i can’t seem to find a way to fit my six Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons in place of the normal buttons.

is there anyone who has experience with this mod? there’s a plastic piece which aligns all of the old buttons, but i’m not sure if i should just break this off.

this is my first mod, so i’m sorry for the nubbish questions. i’d appreciate any feedback. thanks in advance!

Get the dremel out dude. That’s what I had to do.

I’d like to make a correction to that. The reason why my directionals were fucking up was because the XFPS (a PS1/2 to XB360 coverter) does not like digital only PS1 pads. As far as I can tell, DC ASCII opticals work fine on 3.3v.

Also, the PS1 version of the ASCII flash really does feel different than the DC version, like Paik said. Feels a little more stiff but not mushy like stock DC ASCII flash (you can fix this by taking out the stock spring and putting in a JLF spring), but I seem to wiff a bit more with it. Probably because I’m so used to my DC ASCII stick.

Quick Q for ASCII flash owners. Has anyone had one die yet? I wonder what the MTBF is on these guys…

Sorry to necro bump. This looked like the place to be and I’d rather post here than harass Paik via PM.

Stupid question, but are the buttons 30mm? They look easy enough to desolder and swap out.

How does the PS2 PCB fair with converters? A little earlier in the thread it was said that the PCB could be swapped with a PS1 DS. I guess I could do that if it came to it.

If you want to put 30mm buttons in there, you’re going to have to dremel to make room, no way around it. The stock holes are just a little too short :frowning:

Thanks. How cheesy are the stock buttons? Are they tolerable?

I’ll probably end up buying one of these and reselling it if it doesn’t do it for me.

The ones on the DC version were OK. Better than Hori ones to me anyway. The buttons on the PS1 version felt worse.

stud made me fall in love with these.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y238/kugai/stick/100_0295.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y238/kugai/stick/100_0437.jpg

stock buttons are garbage, even if you switch out the bottom plunger for a seimitsu/sanwa one.

the template fits 28 mm buttons so korean buttons will fit perfectly.

Got this in today.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390123471129

The Start and Select buttons don’t register on the PS2, on the PC via PS2 to USB converter or on the Xbox1 via an PS2 to Xbox1 converter. Is there some magic to this I’m missing? The seller said that it was tested. I don’t see how he could have tested if it the Start button doesn’t work.

I guess I’ll crack it open. It needs a harder spring anyhow.

Hi, noob question, but can anyone whose taken one of these apart before tell me how to remove the top panel from the plastic case? Or at least how to remove the joystick base from the panel? It looks like the screw heads have been cut off or something. I really want to get this joystick out of here. Thanks.

If it’s an Ascii stick you have to peel the art off. I spent much longer than I’d like to admit figuring this out. Once you do this it should all make sense.

Oh I’m not really concerned about the art. I just want to get the joystick base out without murdering the case. it looks like its being held between the plastic and the metal panel.

edit: oh I get it, that makes sense. Thanks Kyle, I’ll start rippin’.

Rip off the art and it will pop cleanly out the top.

Hi all,

I have a HRAP 3 for PS3 and a HRAP EX for X360 (Deathsmiles edition) and now need a stick for my Wii.

I have the white / yellow / black version of the Dreamcast ASCII stick with the optical sensor and was wondering if this could be easily modded for Wii use? I love the shape of this stick and if I could get some use from it now that would be great!

I have moderate soldering knowledge so I was thinking a Cthulhu + Gamecube combination, along with SANWA OSBF 30s. Would this work?

I also have the SNK vs Capcom PS2 stick (Ryu edition) with JLF parts already installed and was wondering if this would be a more suitable mod, or exactly the same?

Finally, what is the easiest way of enlarging the holes? (obviously with a dremmel!) - Is there a way I could mark the correct enlargement on the face, like trace something?

Any info would be much appreciated!

cause_of_chaos

okay, i’m having the same problem right now. i’ve wired the ascii optical to the mc cthulhu. it works fine on ps3/xbox360/pc but doesnt work for ps2 or ps2 with inpin converter.

anyone have any ideas how to fix this? i’m pretty sure its the voltage. i’ve tested the cthulhu with the ps3 on which reads ~5v, tested again when powered with the inpin converter which reads ~3.3v. i’m pretty sure its a voltage problem.

what do i need to do to fix it? a step up converter?

Try pluging in the ps1 cable and usb. I tried and it works fine with the ps2 and sfac

hmm, it seems a bit risky and i’m not sure do i have the diodes installed correctly in the mc cthulhu.

i think i’ll just wait for my step up converter at the mean time. its not like i can use my ps2 any time soon.

thanks for the advice though. i will try the usb method if the step up converter fails.

vcc is the middle wire on the cable that attaches to the board. the through hole between the legs of the capacitor is a perfect spot to tap vcc.

on the optical pcb, which wire corresponds to which direction, and are they the same on both pcb’s?

thank you.