Art's Hobbies - DIY Acrylic Cases

Are the colored panels UV reactive? How well would it react bright whites/UV LEDs? Anyone know? Considering on ordering a case after helping out my friend Maxoplata on his build.

Well Ive had my baby for about a week now
(My Thoughts)
Its a great looking case and i’d say as far as cracks go its pretty durable…(outside of the building process lol)
I only say this becasue to my bad luck i installed some wonderful rollie buttons 30mm and while putting them in i noticed they didnt go down all the way… but at the same time i than realized one of the led boards was still in a button so i attempted to take one out and i have a crack nothing sever hardly noticeable from certain angles but its still there =[
While im playing i find that its pretty easy for the top panel to come loose which has happened to me once to many but I see many people have posted a ā€œfixā€ for this i shall give it a crack this weekend since im going to re wire the stick nicely this time.
Also i would love to take my buttons out but lol have to be honest im extremely scared to crack my case anymore than it is and dont have the patience to wait another 2 weeks for a new panel so anyone out there having the same experience that ive had with these buttons any tips on how to shimmy those bad boys out without cracking it

Has anyone flown with a weight-added TEK-case (with BB’s) as carry-on?

Just wondering if TSA is fine with the BB’s.

What if you store the BBs in you checked luggage and re-install them after you land?

do your thing art, people understand, as business isnt slowing for you lol. if you ever find time to visit us here @ srk again, please let me kno what font you use for the nameplates. i kno its sort of a stencil font, but it contains lowercase letter, and i cant seem to match it anything…it shalleth be revealed soon as to why its important for me to acquire this font, but not as important as your business, so your thing :slight_smile:

i’ve been wondering for some time now, how sturdy is the plexi case? it looks fabulous, but i’m worried about the durability, since i play a little…rough with my arcade sticks :V

Now i want this sweet case

all good. pretty sure peeps understand. good products take time so keep your head up and good luck with the move.

Thanks for understanding guys. I will try to chime in whenever I can =).

Sorry to hear about the ā€œcheap screwsā€ issue with the top panels. It has more to do with the tapping of the threads within the diamond joints. While the majority of the joints are threaded well, there are some that may have been overlooked when I’m tapping like hundreds of them. If you have diamond joint issues, please email me, and I’ll place you in a queue for free replacement diamond joints. I don’t know the exact date I’ll get to that queue, but it shouldn’t be longer than a couple of weeks. I will do the best I can with the time I have.

If anyone has emailed me about diamond joint issues and have not heard from me, please email me again as I may have missed the emails during really hectic days.

@ShinMessiah, The stencil font I use is ā€œStencilia-Aā€

@Edgeman, When I went to EVO last year, I did transport my TEK case completed and filled with BB’s within my carry-on. I had no issues going through security. Although, when the guy scanned it through the x-ray, he paused for a moment, then took the bag through again at a different angle, then let it through without any issues. Now… results will obviously vary depending on the level of security of your airports.

On the way back, however, I took my case apart (since I didn’t need to use it anymore) and bagged the bb’s separately. So another good thing was compatibility of the case if you don’t mind taking it apart =).

thank you very much art :slight_smile:

Haven’t had issues with the top/bottom panels coming loose at all (although that may be due to the gorilla glue and the special washers) with Project IS. The screws on the side however, seem to have a mind of their own.

To piggyback off d3v, his top and bottom panels aren’t going anywhere. To make sure the holes never stripped, I countersunk a hole in the diamond joint and pressed in some 8/32" nuts, which I then glued into the joint. Since the screws are now metal to metal, there’s no chance of stripping. The fit for the nuts in the joints was already pretty tight (I had to press them in with a clamp), but with the glue here’s little if any chance of he nuts spinning in the joints. You’d probably crack the plexiglass plates first. I’ll probably take a picture for my Project: IS blog at some point. The only other thing I could think of is some sort of threaded insert that could go in the diamond joint. Something like a drywall anchor or threaded brass insert. Of course, I didn’t have the time to experiment with that, so I used the nuts instead.

As I mentioned before, this is in no way a knock against the case! For most people, the threads in the diamond joints will be just fine. Worst case scenario, longer screws will do the trick if the screws start to feel a little less tight

As for the sideplates, I’ll e-mail d3v on that…

I just finished building my FFVI stick. I just need to wire it now. Also waiting for a new balltop to ship.

Here are some pics.

Flush mount that Neutrik!

I just finished my Tek-Case. Here is a brief review.

-Unbeatable price for a DIY case of this quality. I looked at all of my options, price was not an issue, but I would have taken the Tek-Case over many other much more expensive options any day.
-Looks great. The fully acrylic case gives it a sharp clean look that no other DIY case can pull off. Wood vs acrylic depends from person to person, but there’s no denying that the Tek-case is sexy.
-Very customizable. Many configurations to choose from when it comes to color, button placement, PCB mounting, you name it. Plus having your artwork printed and cut perfectly to match your button configuration is a huge plus.
-Very easy to put together. My first time doing anything like this, and the case was by far the easiest part. If you’re having trouble with this, you’re probably fucked on wiring anyway.

The only problems I had were with the screws and diamond joints for the top and bottom. The screws would not tighten properly. I bought screws (8-32) from my local hardware store and it fixed the problem 100%. I actually bought two Tek-Cases and one of them only came with 3 top panel screws. Weird. Costed me a whole extra $2.00 for all of the replacement screws, so no big deal.

I can’t comment on durability. I haven’t had it for long enough yet. I had some plexiglass covers before and cracked one (my fault), but this feels pretty sturdy. I also cracked one of the PCB holders by screwing it too tightly, but thankfully it came with a spare. We’ll have to wait and see how it holds up in the long run. It will surely scratch with wear and tear, but I purposely chose art with a white background to make it less noticeable. If you want a black/mirror stick, any scratches will be more visible.

My only other issue is with S&H. I live in Canada, so we get raped by S&H. This is more-or-less out of Art’s control, but it makes the product less accessible to international buyers nonetheless.

I give the Tek Case my highest recommendation.

Done. Thanks for the tip. This looks way better.

sigh hey art…apparently something went wrong with the zip code on my order…so it got sent to west virginia. It may make it to me (quite late), or the post office said theres a chance it may even get sent back to you =\

Have anyone did a hitbox with one of these cases? I would like to use this case for my hitbox that I will be building.

i got my case about 10 days ago and the bottom brace was cracked by the usps. art replaced it pretty damn fast, got the part today and put everything together. heres a link to the pics:

for whatever reason, imgur wants to post them upside down, and i’m too tired/lazy to fix them. also, could probably benefit from fingerprint removal, but again laziness prevails. i’d like to have the nameplate on the stick light up, but i think i’ve done enough project for now.

the case came together really easily. my only regret is that i should have purchased an opaque bottom panel so that my ugly wiring job woudn’t be so visible.

Has anyone mounted the Ponyboy transparent snapins in one of these cases? Not sure if the art inserts are the same size…

What spenzalii did with IS was he pressed in some nuts (held in with Gorilla Glue) in the diamond joints for the top/bottom panel. It’s something that IMO Art should look into for series-2.