Dunno if you have time to come and read this thread Art? but I was wondering if you got my message about a Pearl dustwasher, for my Pearl TEK case.
Sorry to pester you.
Gary
Heard back from Art finally and got everything with my missing panel worked out. So close to completion on my case!
I think Pearl only comes in 1/8" and dustwashers are 1/16".
I overlooked two pieces for my case --
The top and Bottom panel so i can sandwich my art -___-
Now i have to wait another 2 weeks and i just got the hardware to install everything and than i relized derp im missing a way to protect the art.
Anywhoes anybody have a pic of there case with a PS360 wanted to know if anyone actually bothered to screw the two holes that u can screw onto the PCB plate that coems with teh stick
I donât think the holes on the plate will line up exactly with the pS360. They were meant for the MC Cthulthu (sp?), and teh PS360 board is slightly bigger.Still, you may be able to get one, maybe 2 screws in. If not, zip ties should do the trick
@ Spenz
Yeah thast what i was saying you should be able to get 2 screws in was wondering if anybody even bothered with that
or just went with zipties lol.
@ Spenz
Yeah thast what i was saying you should be able to get 2 screws in was wondering if anybody even bothered with that
or just went with zipties lol.
These arenât the best pictures, but they are what I got, lol. I still need to do the wiring in the pictures, but everything is mounted.
You can definitely fit 2 screws onto the 6 holes PCB mounting piece. I used #4-40 x 3/4" screws just because thatâs what I had laying around. Also, a little tip for anyone who got a Tek-Case AND a plexi JLF mount. You can use the 2 acrylic joystick mounting washers that get replaced when you get a JLF mounting plate to mount the PS360 to the PCB mounting piece.
Lastly, I know the PCB is facing 2 different ways on the plate in the pictures (I mounted it the wrong way the first time) and also I got a little rough I guess and broke off the corner of one of the slots that the PCB mounting piece connects to the PCB plate but it still manages to hold on snugly.
http://www.guamgaming.com/images/misc/DSCN1967.JPG
http://www.guamgaming.com/images/misc/DSCN1968.JPG
http://www.guamgaming.com/images/misc/DSCN1969.JPG
Got my stick wired up today. Still got a few things to do before itâs done. Gonna flip the PCB over to make it easier to work with and then I still gotta cut all the wires shorter and zip tie them so itâs less cluttered. Thanks to SRK member Jirvs for coming over and helping get it running!
I have a few questions about the panel replacements, I am looking to add custom art to a custom button layout:
-
How would I attach artwork to the underside of a clear thick plexi panel - would the buttons and stick be enough to hold it in place?
-
How clear is the etched portion of a mirror plexi - would artwork look good underneath?
TiA 
What do you guys think of your cases so far?
I really like mine, but it gets dirty super easy. If youâre clean and tidy person (OCD) this case will drive you nuts, especially if you see fingerprint smudges from certain angles etc.
I have sweaty palms, so after a session it has to be cleaned or it builds up âsweat stainsâ. Oh well its not the cases fault, just something to think about, I didnât when I bought it, so meh.
The build quality of the case is top notch and everything looked really good when I put it all together. The only thing that drove me nuts for the 1st month of having it were 2 top and 2 bottom screws that would not tighten properly. The case would just unscrew itself from playing with it, and no amount of tightening would keep the screws in.
I ended up doing what DV3 did, getting new screws of the same type and adding silver finishing washers to just the top screws.
One thing you should be careful with this case is dropping any parts, or the whole case.
I feel that one drop, and its game over for the case, I already dropped the Panel Border (Blue border on the 2nd pic) from the height of my kitchen table (I took it apart to clean it), it hit at the edge and it broke the corner, I can just super glue it and it should be ok. Again be very careful.
Here are some pics, from the 1st of week having it, I have added PS360 (I used zip ties) and new screws/washers since then.
My only real issues as far as case construction goes is :
#1. Screws wonât tighten on to 2 of my diamond joints on the bottom that hold the feet and bottom panel in. They screw in a bit and then just slip when you try to tighter.
#2. I managed to break the corner of my 6 hole PCB mounting piece trying to put one of the nuts in to attach it to the plate.
Other than that, everything has been good. I have already accepted the fact that itâs gonna be smudged all the time.
I noticed that while building mine, I turned the diamond joint upside down, and they screwed in perfectly. Donât know if youâve tried that, but itâs worth a shot.
Go to home depot and get better quality screws of the same size, flat head socket screws is what used for the top and bottom panels.
Check out DV3 purple washer with flathead socket screws
Iâll offer a suggestion for what I did when I built d3vâs stick. The threads are cut directly into the plexiglass, and as such could strip and lose bite over time. One solution is to get longer 8/32" screws, which should reach the part of the thread that isnât stripped. There is a more permenant solution that I used with d3vâs project. I got a #10 countersink bit and drilled out the hole until it was big enough to fit a 8/32" washer in the recess the countersink left. Then I used a bit of gorilla glue on the sides to make sure the nut wouldnât budge (the nut should need to be pressed in, and the friction shoudl keep it in place, but I feel better with glue). Then I reinstalled them with the nut side down (just to ensure the top and bottom panels had a smooth even surface to mount to). No more stripping.
The socket screws and washers were really just for show; your stock screws will do just fine. My main hobby is r/c cars and trucks, and hex head screws are the norm. Same way I got the purple anoâed washers. Technically they help spread the load of the screw evenly and over a wider surface, but for that project it was for show!
Please keep in mind the suggestion is not a knock on Artâs case in any way (kind of why I was hesitant on posting up my idea before). The case is very well designed and well built. At best, using longer screws should do teh trick for most people. But Iâve got to ship Project: International Slumber overseas, so I wanted to make extra sure the screws didnât budge
Has anyone had any luck contacting Art? There was a problem with my order (artwork got etched on the wrong side plate) and I have had no luck emailing him.
I sent Art an e-mail myself a couple of weeks ago, but no responseâŚdunno what heâs up to or how busy he is.
Iâm still waitting for the Seitmitsu plexi inserts. Hope Art have some luck making it.
I hear that. I was WAY more excited about those than the cases. Hoping for some pimp L M H E a1 a2 cutouts or something similiar for MvC sticks.
Hey guys.
I have been reading through this thread and I could not find a clear answer for what all Seimitsu joysticks will work in these cases. I know Art said in the FAQ that the LS-32 will fit, but I also read other speculation that any stick with an RE mounting plate will work. So if I pick up an LS-32-01 or LS-56-01 and swap the mounting plate will those work in these cases? I should probably also ask, is switching the mounting plate easy to do? Thanks.