ok if you’re going to do this yourself, replacing the art. I suggest you look for a tool in your hardware or home depot that looks like this(the one on the far right)I found it in my screwdriver set. I don’t know what it’s called. Just bring the picture with you. I’m sure they sell that sh*t. Cause I had a hard time the first time trying to pry those quick disconnects off. I dont know why they call em qdc when sometimes they’re hard to pull of >_<
What is that attached to your 360 (where the HD goes)?
yea I was wondering about that myself.
looks like a dev unit
How much does the 1/16th plexi plate protrude past the bevel piece?
Glad you guys are happy with it! Thanks again! Rexpop, what’s the image to the right side of the stick?
Sorry, the pricing is based on the USPS shipping rates. You can see the details on shipping costs in the Shipping section of my website. I hate the steep shipping charges just as much as you.
Your Akuma one was pretty bad-ass =). I’m loving how well it turned out when it’s all put together. Probably even more so once the Seimitsu’s are in place. Looking forward to seeing that!
Incase I still missed your email, the HRAP2 is the same as the HRAP3/EX.
Man, if only LL and Akihab re-opens soon (or have they? I haven’t kept track since they closed orders). I’d order a ton of new stuff =P
Heh, it doesn’t get any easier than this for the purpose. The TE’s already setup for easy access to internal areas. If the artwork could be removed without removing the buttons and ball top, you would have much larger button holes, and a huge hole for the balltop to go through, and you would need to make the entire art sheet adhesive and apply them exactly in place or it’ll end up being off from the button cuts. If that were the case, it sounds even more time consuming than just what’s available now.
As for the matte/glossy question. It’s really hard to take pics of the plexi glass. In person it’s very glossy particularly the way light bounces off it and refracts from the sides. But when taking a pic with a direct flash, a lot of that is hard to capture. I have a Nikon D80 and that’s a damn good camera, yet I still have a lot of trouble capturing the full effect of the plexi. Of course, I’m no photography expert, but still goes to show that it’s not easy to snap pics at a transparent object =).
I didn’t exactly measure it, but have you had a chance to look at the pics on the protrusion? Other than the picture, I’m not sure what is the best way to set an example for you. With cardstock as the art, the protrusion is pretty much 1/16th minus like may half a millimeter… if that helps any =P
maybe it’s a bit off topics
but i want to ask for those people who post their new stick photo
what do i need to buy (and where to buy), to change to the transparent color ball tips??? are they sanwa parts?? do i just need to buy the ball tips or i need something else as well (if they are not sanwa parts but seimitsus parts.)
I love those transparent orange and blue ball tips.
Also, are those transparent buttons sanwa parts as well?? how easily do you place the pictures below it?
art just ordered from you again. Well I’m helping your business out hehe…:rock: It’s an art print, minus CHARLIE. I could’ve done this myself…well I did, but I messed it up and I really want a perfect version of that one.
those are seimitsu form lizardlick.com and they fit on the sanwa stick, just screw it on there, you don’t need an adapter. oh the transparent buttons are seimitsu, if they’re transparent or clear they are seimitsu.
is that a 360 dev kit?
if anyone wants to have photos with reflections and have a flash unit with a head that turns just point that baby at the ceiling instead of the stick and you’ll get reflection of the ceiling like this:
or any light will work i guess
Sorry, n00b here waiting for my TE, but does installing this plexi (without removing the original art) require you to remove the buttons/stick and thus void the warranty?
Also, is there anyplace/easy way to get a clear, non-harming and easy to remove cover for the stick if I just want to protect the finish of a new TE stick? I’ll prolly go plexi after a little while but for the time being I’m thinking a clear cover would be a good idea.
you don’t void your warranty, cause the warranty sticker is at the bottom and if you unscrew it from there you’re the one that gets screwed. Take the top 6 screws off, undo the cable from the joystick, you need to use a thin flathead…
well just go to this thread:
You’ll have to remove your buttons before you can remove the original acrylic. You might be able to just remove the screws and place a piece of plexi over it though.
I see. Can anyone tell me if I can just remove the screws and put the plexi on top or where I could go about getting a clear cover? I’ve never had a stick before so I’m going to start out slow before opening it up proper…
Milkham: how’d you color in chunli’s bands to yellow, i want to do similar for ken’s gloves and shirt without changing the hue/saturation bc that makes the entire image a specific color. (i just want to change his gloves and shirt)
nope its not going to work like that, cause the plexi’s holes are cut to the exact measurement of the acrylic artwork and if you just place it over there like that you’re going to have ugly artwork and bent plexi, so just go to the link i gave you… that’s the only way to do it…and if you don’t want to do plexi, you have to do lami-label, you might not need to stick the lami-label but just take off the hardtop acrylic and and put the lami-label artwork on there, but yes you do have to take off the buttons, buttons will always be an obstacle to someone new… Did you see the post i did a few pages back with the tools, yes those are the tools you may need, you only need three of those, the number 3 metric allen, the flathead, and that one with the black bottom, looks like a nail puller, but that nail puller will help you get those quick disconnects off from the buttons. I did all my replacement artwork all in one night, took roughly 30-1 hr, the first time i did the disassembly i gave up…then I went at it again with the tool I found and finally got it and was able to put my artwork on.
Damn, taking the buttons out looks like a bitch.
just used a flathead to push the tab down and push it out, wasn’t that hard for me and since I know how to do it I’m getting more buttons, can’t wait till LLC opens up again, order tons of buttons n stuff…
i would still kill for a dreamcast plexi 
btw, any really good resources for cutting plexi? i might venture to make my own