glad you got the package… it should come with the short RGB cables to connect to each other, and a long RGB to connect to sparky, and one long black one for each arc eye to sparky… i dont provide anything to connect from sparky to your buttons/controller PCB (my responsibility ends at sparky lol)
Lol I realized that. I forgot that I have to connect the buttons to the sparky directly for them to activate.
Thanks for the help! hope to order sometime in the few weeks
Ok now I have a real question. So where would I plug in all 8 common (ground) wires from the AE2 to the Sparky PWM LED controller.
Sorry if this is a newb question
Not necessarily a nOOb question. Gimme a bit…
Sent from my EVO Shift
edit
OK, if I’m looking at this Sparky PWM correctly, I think I can help. The RGB wires that have been daisy chained between the AE2s will connect to the harness with the 5 wires, color for color (red to red, blue to blue, green to green). The 8 signal lines will each go on one of the wires on the 16 wire harness, matching each AE2’s button (one for 1K, one for 1P, etc). The corresponding wires on the harness will need to connect to the correct output on the PCB/input line of the button.
If you haven’t watched the video Nerrage did in the PWM thread, do so. While he is using the Uilia LED lights, the process is pretty similar, though messy. While those scotchlock connectors aren’t the best looking things in the world, and you have some aversion to solder, they will do the job
hey, will the arceye2’s fit in either the seimitsu PS-15 or PS-14-G pushbuttons or should I go with rollies instead?
So I realized that now. Sucks because there is a harness already in place for my Sparky PWM LED controller. Its the one off of focusattack
I think I will have to cut the plastic block and fuse them together…bleh
Not necessarily. If you want to use the harness, you can splice the connector from each of the 8 signal lines that came with the AE2s to the harness on the PWM. Then, each of the colored wires will have a connector you can plug into the AE2
If my memory serves, neither of those are clear, so there wouldn’t be much benefit. Is there a reason for wanting either of those, other than snap in vs. screw in?
can you post a pic of it?
are there any photoshop wizards out there that can help me with a little something? email me please!
HEre is the one I bought
http://www.focusattack.com/sparky-pwm-smd-led-controller-pcb/
I just finished putting the TE-Kitty board on my system and installed the LED controller. Unfortunately, the LEDs dont light up when I press a button. Trying a few things now, but DAMN!
Note to people on the TE-Kitty install. Give yourself some room with wires for the USB! The USB wires are thin and retarded. Took me almost 2 hours just to install it onto the screw down terminals on the TE-Kitty. Which by the way, is retarded to orientation of the screw down terminals.
Bleh…im tired. Been working on this for the past 8 hours O_O!
well I was hoping for a very subtle glow coming off my buttons rather than a dramatic one that happens with the clear buttons. . .
It’s mostly because this video [media=youtube]2SDuCOvf3Q4[/media]
I like the idea of that soft glow on the left side. The reason I ask about the seimitsu buttons is because I’ll already be using a few clear seimitsu buttons and I just wanted to stick with the same maufacturer for all buttons.
how did you wire it exactly?
it may be stupid to ask but did you connect it at all to the TE?
as in solder in the lines for button inputs and power and ground?
Ok from the looks of it, the long RGB cable plugs into “R G B” pins on the bottom… each black wire form arc eye plugs into P1/P2/P3/P4/K1/K2/K3/K4 on the “LED” column, and the “B” column would be a connection to the buttons… and then theres power and ground… so unless the board is dead or needs a re-flash, it should be straightforward? on your next order i can give you additional pin harness that can plug into the “B” column, and then you just insert the other end into the screw terminal…
http://www.focusattack.com/product_images/k/251/sparky-pwm-1a__15651_zoom.jpg
After months of waiting for parts I finally got around to installing my Arceye2s into Sanwa clears. Keep in mind that for sanwas the inside of the plunger needs to be modified for it to fit but in the end it fits with no interference.
Got the PurpleArms sticker adorning my USB cable door now 
my worst fear is since he’s using a kitty, he may have not even hooked up power + gnd + signals
What do you mean not even hooked up the Power+ grid+ signals?
I tapped into the 5v USB wire and ground for power on the Sparky and have a wire coing out of that to the kitty to power.
It shows only 3 kicks lit up and thats it. Not sure why I know everything is hooked up correctly, and messy lol
no sorry about that
when i hear someone using a kitty, i assume the worst (especially when you said none of the lights activate)
if 3 kicks light up, what order of lights come out?
Post up some pics. That would be a bit more helpful to see what you’ve got there
could be a sparky issue… a re-flash of firmware might work… i’m not sure if their version of sparky has the resonator issue that earlier sparkies had…