Thanks and congrats! Thats a clean wiring job!
This is great work. Creative too. And an Arduino Mega 2560.
I recently got my hands on the Arduino Mega ADK. Looking forward to programming my fightstick from my Android Tablet!
Thanks, I appreciate it. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out, although I wish I didn’t have to choose between daisy chaining RGB on PWM pins, or being able to customize the color of each button, but no PWM. The Mega had only 14, so I was out of luck. Do you happen to be aware of any controllers that have enough PWM pins to be able to accomplish both? At minimum, I would think the controller would need at least 24 PWM pins, in addition to the digital pins for all of the button and joystick inputs.
I would recommend taking a look at SoftPWMLibrary, pure software controller PWM output on any pin.
take a look at the video below. that’s D13 on the stock arduino. Essentially it uses timers and interrupts, smart
[media=youtube]9tTd7aLm9aQ[/media]
Just ordered a set of 8, step one of stick renovation complete! 
This thread is so far over my head its ridiculous! But to digress, I just powdered some clear sanwas and wanted to know if the AE2s would fit in them?
Also what would be the proper setup, Pcb wise, for 8 button leds & the upcoming striker with a joytron PS3/360 pcb?
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
AE2’s dont fit sanwas unfortunately… the button cap collides with the PCB… maybe with a bit of dremeling it might…
I’ll definitely take sanwa clears into consideration if i make AE3…
As for the joytron, i’m assuming you have the stick or bought the paewang board from etokki… In this case you’ll have to solder wire to the PCB to get power and run it to the approprate screw terminal on the sparky PCB… as for the buttons, you can connect from sparky screw terminal and solder it to the joytron/paewang board, or connect it to the buttons’ signal terminal… same goes with getting a ground connection
I’m getting the board. Now would I solder the button confirmation from the sparky to the board or can I run 2 writes from the button one to the sparky and one to the Mayflash? And the vcc from sparky to mayflash pcb?
You can use either method. I personally prefer to solder to the board… you might want to check out how 32teeth attached a header to the board… its a neat idea…
Hey Purplearms anyway to know is that really Important to make a holes? what if i Just Make a lines by my Nail (Tack hot with fire) its will gonna work and the Template will be in the box with it ?
i think using a hot nail may be messy… and can ruin the template… i do not recommend it… use a drill, its very easy (as i showed in the instruction video)… if you must use a hot nail, then use the template and mark the holes with a pencil so you dont ruin it…
if you dont have a drill, you can cut the pins off, and solder wires to the board… but the wiring will be a lot more work than just drilling holes…
thanks dude but i have drill but its really big drill not like ur drill small . so think its hard to do it but im gonna try .
Hey everyone
I wish to thank everyone who has supported me through project ArcEye1, ArcEye2, project Gouken, and my endeavor to invent an LED solution for the masses. As everyone knows, i’ve been wavering for some time with my decision to begin development on ArcEye3 and to make a 24mm variant. Although I’ve got some new and great ideas, I regret to say that this is definitely the end for me once stock dries up. I wont get into details, but the time and conditions are just not favorable for me to proceed. I’ve always been an honest modder / DIY / idea man for the community, but not a businessman with the right connections and resources.
As such, i only have a few hundred LEDs left in stock. I will continue to sell them as Sparky V3 release is around the corner if I have stock, but I am throwing out an open invite to anyone who may be interested in picking up a bunch at a discounted rate for any stick builders etc… resistors and LEDs are factory soldered, but the pins are not…
Please PM / Email me if interested.
my arceye shed a tear!
Your contribution as a modder and product developer has enabled individuals as myself to build tools such as the Sparky. It would not have existed with the ArcEye’s.
That being said, there may be individuals who may take up the torch, would you be willing to provide the files to the public?
Yes, but I must sell out my stock before i can do it.
I will help with that once the Sparky Jr 3.0 are in
[
](‘http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mJCVM-hsbuc/Tp_yez8-IMI/AAAAAAAADHM/mZmh6x-2I7M/s1600/WP_000301.jpg’)
[
](‘http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KCQfKKtzKBM/Tp_yel3psaI/AAAAAAAADG8/vvwX8S_yLo8/s1600/WP_000300.jpg’)
[
](‘http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BssRWXyOD1k/Tp_yea3FqSI/AAAAAAAADG0/0Jasgiwssbs/s1600/WP_000299.jpg’)
So I`ve put the ARC EYEs v2 finally to my shop and a customer send me some nice pics of assembled ARC EYEs in a Sega Naomi. with PACLED
Looking good!
Sorry to see you go. I’ll order a few sets before they’re all gone.
Question:
For TEs, can the signal wires be connected to the bottom of the barrier strip?