thank you for the info 
im sure they’ll will be here soon, been receiving a lot of different type packages here and no problems yet, im just getting itchy to start playing around with these
So finally, i got this in the mail today…
http://www.realmofpainv3.com/images/project.knytemare/arcspackage.JPG
Masterstrike compared the new Leo 2 board
http://www.realmofpainv3.com/images/project.knytemare/ms-leo2.compare.JPG
The package was sealed, so no tampering by customs or the post office, which is nice. but a question, no leds? i got a bunch of smd and th resistors (thanx) but no leds…its not the end of the world, as i was planning on using my own leds, but i did want to play around with them or maybe use them on my non-punch kick buttons, but its no biggie, im just glad everything got here it was great doing business with you!
oh yeah before i forget, my ms doesnt have a 4066n chip becasue its not needed for a wireless setups correct? just curious because all the pics of setups using masterstrike, in the ms thread had those on board. searching through that thread i found out that its mainly used for usb switching and runs @ 5v and is separate from the rest of the board circuitry because of this and should be a non-issue for wireless. just trying to understand all this fun stuff in a correct fashion lol…
aaah!!! i forgot to pack the LEDs!! so sorry! i’ll have them out in the mail to you asap… the 4066N that i have in stock has too high of an on resistance and interferes with the usb signals making it work sometimes, and not other times… I dont have the proper 4066N in stock… did i solder all three jumpers together on the back? it only matters if you want to use masterstrike to switch USB as well… i’ll make it right dont worry…
So, a different 4066N would do the trick? Would it need to be programmed (I guess flashing it with the AVR woudl do the trick) to get USB switching to work? Now I worry about my package…
Yup… you would just need to do the pin fix… unfortunately since i’m in canada, the only place i know where to get it is on digikey… and they/UPS/Canada customs are not kind to canadian customers
Got my Arc-eyes today. 
But, I made a mistake on shipping options for my flux three weeks ago, so it’s gonna be a little while until I get to assemble. :sad:
Hmmm…again, I’m reading this at work, so my brain is mega fried and I probably missed something along the way, so forgiv eme if my next few statements sound stupid or we went over this already. For wired USB switching, like the project I’ll be working on now, will I need to replace the 4066N, or will the current one do the job? I know there was the issue with the wireless setup, which is why I had to wire up a sync button (that doesn’t seem to be working, but that’s another issue I’ll get sorted out another day). But now it’s unclear if the issue also affects the wired setups as well.
If a new 4066 has to be bought for the wired setup, I can get one from Digi-Key myself, as shipping within the states should be easier. Then the problem becomes getting my AVR programmer to work. Remember the issues I had with El Guapo…
4066N is not really required for wired setup because most products like dualstrike/cthulu already have 4066N built into it, and is therefore not needed on Masterstrike… its only real use is for wireless setups…
If i sent you one with a 4066N then this was before i discovered the 4066N i have been providing is the cause of the problem. You would need to de-solder it, order a new one and re-solder it back… Or I can send you a replacement masterstrike and you can order the correct 4066N and do the pin fix (due to routing error when manufacturing the board)…
I’m cool with the one I have in El Guapo now; it’s doing what it needs to do. For the wired project I’ll have a look see. Since it’s not really needed, I shouldn’t have to worry about which one is on there, if any, right?
Once everything gets set up, I’ll jump on the masterstrike thread to make sure I’m hooking everything up correctly. I’ve got to do a MC cthulu with a RJ-45 setup so I want to make sure I’m wiring the USB lines up correctly
if you send the leds thanks, its no big deal, as i am already a happy customer. if i look at the two groups of 3 pad, and the documentation on the ms thread, it looks like you shorted the pins for wireless mode. i mainly am considering using the ms board in conjuction with sparky (variants) and my arcs. that being said i can totally live without 4066n. the only thing that comes to mind, where i might actually need it (i dunno) is when trying to reprogram the other chip, as it was mentioned that there is an issue with trying to flash the chip in wireless mode and it was recommended that it be done in wired mode. if it can still be done without the 4066, then i really dont care. on the other hand i cant really think why i would need to reflash the ms, as the default switching options are great for me and most of the really rad stuff with leds can be done with sparky and its variants.
im sorry digikey isnt kind to you guys in Canada. if you ever need to some sort of proxy…i’d be more than willing to forward packages to Canada for you or 32teeth, its the least i could do after all you guys have contributed to the community
yup for a wired project you dont need 4066N on masterstrike and dont have to worry about which one is on there (it doesnt draw much power anyhow)
You paid for it, so i have to send it to you!
Thanks for your kind offer to be a proxy 
Last time i ordered $100 of stuff from digikey, i got a $25 tax bill, $50 brokerage charge (including duties) 
This is on top of the $25 shipping charge… so essentially anything i see on digikey costs at least double to get to my door lol… there are local shops and mail order companies in canada, but dont have as much variety as digikey…
Ok for those who have recently bought arc-eyes from me, and havent read through the almost 600 posts, you should know that the fit might be too tight between the arc-eyes and the button collar shaft. This is because of manufacturing variance in the diameter of the button collars (which are tapered-- slightly cone shaped), and variance in the diameter of the arc-eye’s center cut-outs…
First thing you want to do is to mix and match to see which arc eyes will easily fit on which button collars… some will fit real easy, some wont… for the ones that dont, you might need to take some sandpaper and make the button shaft narrower… wrap the sandpaper around the collar of the button and pinch the sandpaper tightly around it… while pinching the sandpaper, spin the button with your other hand to sand down the collar… this will help ensure the sanding is more or less even…
The arc-eye does not have to go all the way down to touch the bottom, but you might want to test fit the button cap to make sure that it doesnt hit the board when you press the button down…
personally, i didnt bother sanding the tight ones… i just used pliers to squeeze them down the shaft… but dont do as i do… do as i say… lol
Last time i ordered $100 of stuff from digikey, i got a $25 tax bill, $50 brokerage charge (including duties)
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no problem, after seeing how you are getting rapped, i can def see how it might be discouraging or frustrating to work on project you need to order electronics for. if you ever do have that need again, shoot me a pm and we can figure out the details, i do it for free too. but those numbers are crazy. 25$ tax for ~$100 of goods? shesh thats like 25% tax, the government doesnt even take that much out of my checks! are you being charged an extra tax? maybe a canadian sales tax? most online purchases dont require sales tax but that varies from state to state, tho in new jersey i think they started collecting or is trying too, so i should look into that, but that would be 7%. i have never heard of brokerage fee. i havent ordered anything from digikey but soon as my list of stuff i need to get from there is getting longer…is that brokerage fee have to do with placing a standard order with them? i love digikey and their endless selections of mad shit, but its tedious looking for stuff on there sometimes, i often get stuck there for hours searching for the right stuff i need 
thanx for the info…so if we come across that problem, basically we can just jam it in or use a similar technique as the one you used to fix the “fuck up” with the hole for the dpdt switch using a plug you illustrated in one of these threads.
speaking of things you have previously illustrated…i kno i saw in one of these threads before, but i can find the thread where you showed how you made your illuminated bat top…i dont think its in this or the ms thread because i read those entirely at ten times each…if you can point to that thread that would be great. oh yes you kno i need one of those i kno you made only one and trashed the mold, or else i would have been harassing to get one made. but from what i remember you did a great job, showing all the steps on how to make it, enough where i could follow along…
Thanks for the offer dude… yeah i avoid ups and fedex like the plague… because they charge a $25-35 handling fee just to open the package to inspect it on behalf of customs… then on top of our sales tax (13%) they usually impose a duty on electronic parts not made in north america… the duty is often quite hefty, and i’ve been raped up to 100% tax on it… and this doesnt even include the shipping charges!!!
ii remember once buying a custom made $90 LED controller for my car a few years back and getting charged about the same in taxes… it was crazy 
oh the bat top thing was probably in this thread somewhere:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/my-dual-pcb-360-ps3-button-light-up-mod-196109/
i can claim to be the first ever to do a dual wireless mod, as impractical as my invention was lol… gummowned’s leo2 is a better idea a million times over… the thread was also like my build log, with my other projects… this thread has almost turned into something similar, with masterstrike and sparky and whatnot… and soon to come (after i return from getting married), project dhalsim… 
im yeah man wow those rates duties taxes and other bs is just ridiculous! i could never imagine having to deal with such bs, that is truely incredible douchebaggery…and thanx for the link! hey man you gotta start somewhere, maybe that board didnt work out that great but damn the arc-eyes and ms both did oh and the tease! project dhalsim eh? and sparky sr too! you guys are too much! i got a lil project of my own im brewing but prolly not at rad as your guys stuff and of a different nature all together, but shouild be useful to someone one the less
i started on a project called DrumStick. which is different than a LED mod. it’s an 8ohm speaker mod. the pcb had a midi chip and an atmel that spits out drum noises (or whatever you want to spit out the speaker). as of writing this it’s an open source idea. i can provide the schemtics and code if anyone wants to take it further.
how hard is it to convert wav/mp3 to midi? project drumstick seems like a more convenient method than using a nintendo DS
0_0. It would be awesome to have a speaker in the stick that play random mp3 files (favorite would be kurohige from hado gay, that would get people unbalanced). Whenever I do for example a shoryuken it plays a “WOOooooo” from Hado gay haha, would be so funny.
Not generally possible. Midi files are for driving synthesizers rather than generic sound.