/* assume that reset is PIN 1;
Change the jumper to an out of range number, lets call it -1 */
int reset = 1;
{16,15,14,13,12,11,10,reset},{19,18,17},{4,5,0,3,6,7,8,9},{-1}}
/* you now have your extra pin available (in this case PIN #2 is not used yet) */
Oh thanks this solutions would be very nice!
Okay, for the missing reset pin (reset = 1 corresponds to PD1) I try to use PD1 or PD2. Normally USB datalines for USB bootloader are going thru this lines. But perhaps I can use them as a output with no impact
Depending on the order of hardware.
I don’t believe there would be an impact.
If you are programming the Dual Strike. Sparky shouldn’t try to program itself since it is FTDI dependant and has a 0.1uF Cap and needs the TX/RX/GND/VCC lines as well.
BTW. @Purplearms i have your lunch sitting at my desk. Ping me on gTalk
PS. you will be getting a soldered up one as well as a full kit.
As a side note, running the Sparky does not need the onboard 4 resistors and LED. They are simply there for visuals and may be removed before final
production.
Sparky JR, as you will notice above also does not have a footprint for the reset button. But has 2 holes for a remote reset switch.
@ShinMesiah
The Sparky Shield is an Arduino Duemilanove Shield. It sits into the Arduino module. Arduino Duelimanove
Don’t see why not. Depends on the LiPo battery you are using. I am considering a future (far future) build with a Voltage Step Up (NCP1400) (1-4V input to 5V output)
Technically YES. This product is mainly intended for 6 or 8 button set up.
Perhaps IvlePhisto. I have reached out to Phreakazoid187 about adapting it to the TEasy Mod (Specifically for MadCatz), anyone else who is interested.
As this is Open Source, you can (these are yet to be determined)
Order a Assembled $20
Order an Unassebled Kit - $15 Requires SMD Soldering Skills(FGWidget Single Color is $17 for the Unassebled kit)
Order just the PCB (supply your own parts) - $5 to $7.50 (depending on production numbers)
Yes and No.
FGWidget is single color. Sparky is RGB.
FGWidget supports animation. Sparky: you can write your own.
Sparky supports Common Cathode and Common Anode via Jumper or Software
FGWidget - developer has been around and is well known. Sparky is the new kid on the block!
theres more, but the list will get boring.
The assembled and kit include it. but you can buy singles from sparkfun for about $5 (this includes the bootloader for arduino)
Sparky (not JR) is actually about the same footprint. As for connection, you can solder them together.
I need to see one of these wired up and in action. I don’t think I’m going to add anything else to El GUapo, but I’m sure I can come up with another project…
Thanks answering all my questions again! $20 assembled is a great value! no disrespect to toodles but after researching what the fgwidget could do for me, this seems like a much better option, with rgb/ multicolored leds and ability to play nice with wireless and overall niceness being a dealbreaker for me. im sold! im def going to order a sparky and jr next paycheck.
True enough. Each device supports and provides its own service to different individuals. hence why we have ps3, some xbox…
In my comparison, it was not to be interpreted as a dig against pricing on provision and profit. we use different components.
i have a relatively inexpensive source for bootloaded atmega 328s. we use ZIFF sockets for rapid dev and test blah blah blah.
The biggest difference you will find anywhere for any manufactured PCB is the price. PCBs get very expensive per sq inches.
As an example. The sparky shield, which has less components is about over 3 times the price of the Sparky JR. It’s all about the footprint.
For a giggle, i would love to see anyone who has had manufactured PCB take a picture of their FAIL box of PCBS!!! great for teaching kids how to solder!
I am using a Sparky here (not the Sparky Jr yet) for another project. I am making my kid a kinda crazy tree nightlight. using arceyes, sparky and a buunch of extra PS-KN buttons.
That’s right, you press the button on the tree branch ends to change the sequence of lights. LOL
@Purplearms. notice how i left out some of the components (the reset button and the res and led for reset)
essentially, everything between the FTDI header and the Main chip is not required except for the 0.1uF Cap (off center close to chip)
also in stock are the FTDuino. these should cost not more than regular postage to ship LOL
serious question, do you have any fabbed boards that are total scrap that would be long enough to cut into book marks? My GF’s sister needs unpopulated PCBs for craft stuff and I don’t think my work has enough obsolete boards to make that happen for all of the kids attending. I never thought of asking the guys on here about that.
I have a crapton of scrap Spark boards, so the same rough size and shape of JLF boards, including the big hole in the middle. Four bum unpopulated Chimp boards, which do have the crafty awesome “Don’t Panic” on them. (That’s the last time I ever try to use BatchPCB). And the really skinny edgings from a vscore’d panel. They’d be long enough, but they’re only like 1/4" wide with v scores to break them into 2" or 1/2" lengths. No circuitry on them, small hole in the corners.
I forgot they were supposed to have that quite on them. Shoutout to Douglas Adams. As an aside, I’ve got all 5 books of those series and the short story in one volume. I’m such a nerd…
Sparky Jr. sounds interesting. Love to see it. I could see using IDE cable for the harnesses on Sparky (or gluing 30g Kynar together), but unless you have the patience of a saint and are super neat, I couldn’t see dual modding with that, much less wireless dual modding. I wouldn’t have the patience. It would be kick ass though
as for the scrap boards. alot of shield size ones, a few standalones that have a large prototype area (which is good, since you just cut the board and use the proto area)
a couple dozen atmega664 (40 pin dip)
i once made a mistake when uploading files and somehow the bottom copper layer go mashed with the bottom silk layer LOL. i got my money back
check with gummowned, he stocks arc-eyes and can assemble them for you for a small fee i believe. i believe purplearms (OP) may have put his iron away because hes going a way for a couple weeks…
Yup the iron is being packed away today (gonna try to finish some work with sparky before that… pics coming tonite!). I can accept DIY orders up to Oct 1. So contact gummowned for assembled arc-eyes for now until i return (Oct 18)
man i hope my arcs get here soon, its almost been three weeks and i dont want to go have yoke up anyone at the post office ok easy resistor questions inbound:
ohm ratings aside, what kind of resistors would you guys reccommend? im looking at digikey for smds. i kno should get 1/8 watt resistors. but then theres many types of material compositions e.g carbon composition, carbon film, metal film, metal foil ect. what kinds are you guys using/recommend? for smds should i be looking at 0603 or 0805 for the arcs? any suggestions on where i can get some sort of bulk kit maybe with various 1-200ohm 1/8 watt range? its gonna be a lil trial and error trying to find the right resistors to go with the leds im getting and i dont want a get a couple here and there to test and find out those are not going to work, then to order more again, if that makes any sense.
Sorry its taking so long… if you dont get them by sep 30, i’ll send some replacements…
as for resistors, i dunno where you can get a mixed set of SMT because they usually come in reels… for size you need a 1206 case… thick film is common and will do fine… try this search:
ok easy resistor questions inbound: